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Ampeg V9 9x10 cab, questions

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by bambalabwa, Dec 3, 2004.

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  1. bambalabwa


    Feb 19, 2003
    hey, has anyone else ever used one of these old V9 cabs for bass?

    I just picked one up & it sounds really good. unf. I need to repair a couple speakers...may not need a total recone, I think the voice coils are okay, just need to patch the holes/rips in the cones

    ps what's the best way to check the voice coils?

  2. chunky


    Nov 3, 2004
    Portland Oregon
    Manually push on the speaker, along it's natural range of motion. If it moves smoothly, it's probobly ok. If it rubs or feels rough, it's probably on its way out.

    I hooked a blown speaker up to my 70 watt stereo, and got a good amount of distortion out of it. The speaker was rated well above 70 watts... and it was blown.

    I've heard those 9x10 cabs, and I like what I've heard. I've never had a chance to A/B one with an 8x10, though.
  3. SoyBase


    Jul 1, 2001
    Atlanta, Ga
    Man, I used to have one of those a LONG time ago. An old-timer at a speaker shop told me that the best trick to do was to screw covers on to fill in the speaker vents (mine had about a 3" hole on either side of each chamber).

    To check a voice coil, you can do as said above, or take volt meter to test. I can't remember at all how to test it, though. It had to do with reading the meter while pushing the cone in.

    I bought my old V9 that needed some help from a guy for $75 and he called me about 2 months later to sell me his other one that was in decent shape..I should have done it..great cabs.
  4. bambalabwa


    Feb 19, 2003

    btw, here's a pic:


    couple speakers have dried water (beer?) stains on them, but are fine. the three at the bottom have some holes/tears: the bottom center has a decent-sized hole in it. but none of them seem to have voice-coil rub??!!

    I'm hoping I can just patch the cones with glue/pulp mixture, or something.

    FWIW speaker codes are:

    frame # 585167-1, 67-7603
    cone # 45106 1

    impedences measure 5.6 ohms, entire cab measures 5.6 ohms, haven't figured out the wiring yet.

    each set of 3 speakers + 2 vents are in their own sealed chamber, so there's 3 sealed compartments in the cab. I didn't realize Ampeg used fiberglass insulation as a dampener, you can hardly see it but the cameraflash really brins it out ( yellow)

  5. Good Idea, BTW, As I remember right, these were meant for a 300w SVT GUITAR setup!!!!
    it measures impedence in DC. Actual impedence is around 8 ohms.AC

    The ports you are looking into make this cab a "Ported" cab, not "Sealed", like the Ampeg 8-10.

    And, yes they used yellow fiberglas insulation. When I refurbished my 8-10, I put back the original yellow fiberglas insulation. No need to put in that polyfil stuff.
  6. impedences measure 5.6 ohms, entire cab measures 5.6 ohms, haven't figured out the wiring yet.

    Seems to me that 3 speakers wired in series can be parallelled to the remaining 2 sets of 3 speakers (if that made sense).
  7. if it´s 8 ohm speakers i believe three of them would together be 2.7 ohm or 24 ohm. then together with the other two pairs of three you would come up with 8 ohm total.
    after reading the ohms faq topic it seems to make sense.
  8. bambalabwa


    Feb 19, 2003
    according to the ampeg book, the 9 speakers had an impedence of 5.3 ohms each, & were wired so the whole cab was 4 ohms

    the jack on the back does say 4 ohms

    I'm wondering if that's an error in the book? I do know that measured impedence w/a multimeter is always off from the actual speaker impedence

    ie: 8 ohm speakers usually measure around 6.4 ohms

    16 ohm speakers usually read around 12 ohms

    so it seems odd that the speakers measure 5.6 ohms, and are supposedly 5.3 ohms ( according to the book).....maybe they are 8 ohm speakers?

    in any case, I emailed Eminence, hopefully I hear back soon

    thx for the help guys!!
  9. rusmannx


    Jul 16, 2001
    i have the ultimate way to repair cracked and torn speakers. i've done it on loads of subs, and it holds up fantastically. all you need is clear fingernail polish, and a decent 2ply toiletpaper, and a blow drier.

    if you don't trust my method (after having fully read it), or have any doubts about it, then simply don't attempt it. i'm not going to take any responsibility for your failed attempts, are any further damage to your speaker.

    here are the steps.

    #1 remove the torn speaker from the cab
    #2 clean the cone witha slightly damp rag (water only, no solvents or chemicals)
    #3 take one square of toilet paper (i like the uncolored, unpattern ones myself) and cut it into 1/2" strips. your going to want to do this with about 4 squares, so you have plenty of strips.
    #4 place your hand on the back of the cone (your going to support the edges of the rip with your finger) and lightly brush on some of the fingernail polish to cover the crack. lay the polish down so there is 1/4-1/2" on each side (this is what the toiletpaper will bond to).
    #5 lay down a strip of toilet paper to bond the two edges together. remember, you want the edges to be as close to each other as possible without haveing to stretch/distort the cone. also, you want to press the toiletpaper into the fingernail polish so that the toilet paper is lightly saturated. you don't want excess polish if you can avoid it.
    #6 while still supporting the backside of the cone with one hand, use the blow drier to dry the polish. DO NOT USE THE HEAT SETTING ON YOUR BLOWDRYER!! MAKE SURE YOU DRY IT WITH COLD AIR!! the polish doesn't have to be fully dried, only enough that it will now support the shape of the cone, and free up that other hand.

    ok, once you are this far, gently turn over the speaker and do the same thing to the back of the cone. once both sides are dry to the touch, go ahead and apply a second layer to the front side, and then the back. on 10" subs i have normally only needed 3 layers (with two ply toiletpaper) per side. this will also firm up the cone.

    good luck. and if you take some pictures of the process and have some success, send them to me and i'll post a writeup on my website using your own words and pictures of the process.
    (if your interested)
  10. bambalabwa


    Feb 19, 2003
    hey, man, that is AWESOME!!!!!!!


    ...I have a bunch of garbage speakers I will practice on fiirst. I'll let you know how it turns out.

    I'd heard of using white glue + toilet paper before....I tried that on a test speaker once & it didn't hold up. But I didn't layer the toilet paper on like you just explained; I just mixed it into a mulch & spread it on.
  11. rusmannx


    Jul 16, 2001
    right on. let us know how it goes.
  12. Nightbass


    May 1, 2001
    Seattle, WA
    Good post, russmanx.

    Variations on the theme include using white glue, but what I like to use instead of toilet paper is the heavier tissue that you find in the packaging of men's dress shirts. It doesn't break up like TP when you use white glue. You can get a sheet free at just about any store if you ask around.

    My favorite adhesive for this is actually Goodyear Pliobond. It's a rubber-based contact cement. Flexible and VERY tenacious. I brush it on the cone, lay down a piece of tissue, let it dry completely before putting on any additional tissue, or doing the other side of the cone. The flexibility can be important, esp. if you're repairing an accordian-fold surround.

  13. metron

    metron Supporting Member

    Sep 12, 2003
    Im pretty sure the guy from G Love uses one live.
  14. bambalabwa


    Feb 19, 2003
    hey, you're right...check it out:

    he's also got a 2x10 on top...!! overkill or what?

    actually, looks like he's using it as a monitor?

  15. bambalabwa


    Feb 19, 2003

    do they still make this Pliobond stuff? I'm having a hard time finding it...is it sold under another name? do you know what it was originally made for? tire repairs?

    thx much!
  16. I got a surround repair kit (I forget where from), and they had some white glue with it that turned clear when it dried. I am sure it was made exactly for that. Maybe www.partsexpress.com has the stuff.
  17. Nightbass


    May 1, 2001
    Seattle, WA
    It's one of those good-old items like JB Weld and Kroil, that not everyone carries. I get it at the local Ace Hardware store, and so look in the smaller mom-and-pop type places.

    I don't think it was made for tire repair. More like blimp repair. :D It's an industrial-strength contact cement that remains flexible and tacky forever. It's great for nameplates and inventory control tags, logos, repairing Tolex and carpet on cabs, lots of stuff. For large scale coverage I use 3M 777 spray adhesive, but Pliobond is more controllable because you brush it on with the built-in brush, so its better for small jobs.
  18. rusmannx


    Jul 16, 2001
    i never thought to use something flexible. but if your doing work on a souround or folded cone then you would definitly need it. the cone repairs i've made were only on the actual cone itself. i've found that by using the fingernail polish it actualy stiffened up the cone. my mother has two tower speakers in her home audio setup, and the one i fixed (was a 10" in one of the towers) actually resulted in a better (tighter) sound then the speaker with no damage. if i had some more speakers laying around i would do some more tests, but maybe that is something some of you can do for us :)

    just remember, if you take good pics and want to do a writeup on successful repairs, i'll make a page for you on my site for the writeup.
  19. Are you saying that a tear repair that you sescribed only on one small part of the cone area,(the tissue and glue repair), gave you noticable better sound than the other one? :meh: That just does not seem possible. I doubt it is even measurable.
  20. gmoney


    Oct 13, 2007
    hey bambalabwa, i still own a v9 and used it for my guitar during rehearsal but would swap rigs with my bass player on our live shows(don't ask we were young and dumb). it's basically the guitar twin of the svt. great amp. NEVER could turn it up to get natural distortion, it was just way too loud

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