Angled neck joint for bolt ons - How do I screw it together?

Yep, I think you're on the right track with ferrules and screws instead of a traditional neck plate.

The other option I can think of, depending on how big the neck pocket is and how tight the neck fits, would be to do a set neck and glue the neck into place.

 

Not clear to me at all from those how long the pocket above is .vs. the angled area below.

The method you proposed should work.

If long enough, a flat plate behind and a screw or two in the angled area could work. I'm not sure if there's any major reason to set them straight rather than perpendicular to the surface at that point, so long as they don't run into other screws, the trussrod, etc.

If you don't mind making a change, routing a flat spot for a plate would be another option. i.e. I'm not sure if you think the angle is part of the cool shape that's important to you, or merely an inconvenient incidental detail you are not attached to, in which case, changing it would be fairly simple.

 

that is so weird it looks like a mistake. i wouldn't like to play a guitar with a tilted neck. who made this thing?

 

huh. what are you going to do about the bridge? are the walls of the pocket perpendicular to the pocket floor?

 

It appears that the neck pocket is flat and parallel.
The back of the body has been sanded to slope toward the neck heel.

 

oh, crap you're right -i need new glasses.

 

Ferrules. Forstner in a drill press, with everything clamped down tight.

 

Yeah, that's going to be tough to get a Forstner to get going straight on considering the edge is going to engage before the center. Clamp it tight!

 

you could use a counterbore. the pilot will guide the cutter head into your through holes and cut your pockets. you would need to find the right c'bore to use for your inserts though.

 

Yes, the fastest, safest way to cut the recesses for ferrules on an angled surface is with a counterbore. It's a special type of drill bit with a smooth pilot. But you aren't likely to find one that will fit the standard ferrules. I have my own small machine shop, so I've made up various custom counterbores for exactly this purpose. They work great.

But, without one of those, use a Forstner bit:

Cut a wedge of scrap wood that matches the angle of the angled surface. Lightly glue it on, with a few drops of glue. This creates a flat temporary surface. Lay out the locations of the holes, either from inside the pocket or on the back. Drill the holes through with a tiny bit, like 3/32". Drill the counterbores with the Forstner bit, being careful to get the depth right through the scrap wood. The point of the Forstner bit will follow the tiny hole.

Then, use a brad-point bit (usually 7/32") to open up the holes for the screw shank. Drill them halfway down from the back side, and halfway from the pocket side, meeting in the middle. Again, the point of the brad point bit will follow the little 3/32" hole.

Finally, use a chisel and a hammer to knock off the wedge of scrap wood. Clean it up with files and sanding blocks.

 

Great idea.