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Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Willicious, Nov 9, 2016.
Doesn't appear to be homemade, and my Googling has turned up nothing...
Looks useful, where did you see it?
This Fender video, for their (then) upcoming retool of the AV line.
So it's basically a pen mounted on the diagonal in a block for accurate contour tracing?
I bet that guy had a machinist buddy make it for him. A good machinist can make you just about anything out of metal. In fact, if it is a Fender designer, he may have had somebody in the Fender shop make it for him.
I agree that someone made it for him. Just a fancy, yet practical, scribing tool.
Yup. Contour tracer. I've made a few of these over the years from a block of hardwood with a 45 degree hole drilled across the corners to loosely slip a #2 pencil through.
Just made one...
The end face of your design is wider than the roller; that won't work because the point of the pencil is pulled way from the point of contact as you trace the concave portions of your design.
It's quite simple to just angle the front nose inward to create a delineated contact point, no roller necessary and takes about 5 minutes to make the real deal.
I use a scrap of maple, but the one in the original photo looks like a scrap of ebony. I wouldn't want to drag anything made of metal over a finished painted surface, but that's just me.
Yep, a handy tool for the Luthier's bench. I made this one about 23 or so years ago, and it's served me well. A block of maple and a 0.5mm mechanical pencil. The trick to making it is to first drill the hole for the pencil, make the saw slot, and the holes for the screw or bolt to do the clamping. In this case, I used a 6-32 socket head machine screw and a recessed nut on the back side. Get all that done first on the rough maple block. Then, see where the point of the pencil comes out, and trim the bottom and the front nose so that they intersect right at the pencil point. Obviously, the front nose face and base surface need to be square with each other. The front nose shape on this one is about 3/4" radius.
Using a mechanical pencil with a top button click makes it easier. No need to readjust it when the lead wears, just click it.
Problem solved, pencil-roller offset now is 0.1mm. The roller is there because neither do I like to drag anything over painted surface.
Personally I wouldn't make anything more complicated than just holding a pencil with my hand.
I am definitely going to have to make one of those.
@Bruce Johnson I am stealing your design.
Looks like a whammy bar to me--for the unfamiliar, it's a tool that turns hack guitarists into gods.
Wait--which one did you mean?
Those are called wedding rings, my wife uses mine to keep my bass buying in check.
Yours must be broken! I got LOTS more bass gear after I got mine!
Thanks for all the replies, everyone, as well as the photos and CAD (!). Looks like I'll be making my own, most likely patterned after Bruce's design.
I think the closer you can angle the pencil to vertical (within reason), the better.
Yes, you should lay it out with the angle of the pencil tilted just enough to clear itself. That is, the front radiused nose of the block needs to make a straight line to the point, without the body of the pencil interfering.
You all may feel free to copy the design of mine. I certainly don't own any rights to it. It's been a while, but I think I saw a picture of one somewhere, got the basic concept, and refined it a bit. Bonus points if you make the base from a scrap of interesting figured wood.
I could not find pictures at the time, but I did find a patent drawing when trying to describe this in Samantha's hamster-wheel thread:
The hamster wheel of my brain.
A pointier end like the one in the first picture would be closer to what my armor-making friend used (as opposed to the broader radius shown in Bruce's picture) but it would depend what you are working on. A pointer end can trace tighter curves in whatever it is you are tracing.
If is often beneficial for the reference edge to be tall (as opposed to the rather short green CAD object) and the "roller" if, one was using a roller like that, would likewise want to be long/tall - In actual practice a wooden version has never marked up anything from what I saw.
Thank you. Been copying bow heads and cambers forever trying to tilt pencils "just so" with just so-so results. Never imagined such a simple, elegant solution.