This is basically the last place I wanted to come for help (nothing personal guys, I am just afraid of the criticism I will get for how I handled this situation.) I am 17 first of all, so that should explain some of the following "Why...?-moments" you might have. I got this bass guitar (ibanez srx705) 3 years ago. It was my first semi-decent bass. I upgraded from an all time favorite best bass for metal, the BC Rich Warlock. Basically a year ago I payed to have the truss rod set up and all that nice stuff. This summer I played a very large amount and then *Boom* tendonitis. So I decided to make my bass "easier to play" Under the truss rod cover I find the nut stripped, but I naturally being the eager beaver I am wanted to remove it. Then I learned about "Double-Acting truss rods". Now I don't know if this is the case for my bass, but that sure as hell would explain why the nut WOULDN'T COME OUT. lol. I took it to a different "pro" and he said the truss rod was seized. Two nights ago I took another shot at moving the truss rod. I JB welded a set screw (similar to the ones found in bridge saddles) into the stripped nut. I waited. Last night: turn... pushing very hard... *creak*. OMG IT MOVED. Pushing.... harder... *pop*. JB WELD COMES UNDONE. (I didnt set it deep enough/ let it dry long enough/ mix the epoxy correctly most likely. So immediatlely after that "success" I set another hex screw in there (thats what the picture is). It has been drying for 30-ish hours. TL;DR What do I do? My bass is creaking and the truss rod is hard to push, but it was claimed to be "seized" by a pro. Edit: It has become clear that I am not asking a specific question, sorry. Say that hypothetically this new "Set screw-nut" was the factory nut. What should I do about a truss rod that clearly needs to be straightened (see the picture of the action on the 4th post) but it is creaking when I go to straighten it?
What is your goal that you hope to accomplish by turning the truss rod (specifically)? I suspect that your ergonomics are the cause of the tendinitis, not the bass.
If you were trying to get the truss rod nut out, you would have been much better off using an easy out then trying to glue a set screw in there. JB weld will not hold the force you are trying to apply to it. Also as Lakefx said, did you even check your relief before you decided to try and adjust your truss rod?
My goal WAS to lower the action possibly, relieving the truss rod from a change in string gauge and weather, My current goal is to undo the attempt to remove the (what I suspect to be) double acting truss rod not, which resulted in an outrageous action. i cant really capture it graphically but here: (Which would also explain why I an considering this an end to my bass...): also this is where you can start criticizing me if you'd like.
Sorry I forgot to mention I tried multiple sized easy outs, i tried wedging a screwdriver in there, a chisel which i notched to specifically catch the truss rod nut. I did check the relief via the "capo the first fret" method. I also adjusted the bridge saddle height before hand. I am not saying this thing was in "Players condition" before I attempted to do this. It was in my 100% inexperienced opinion that I did what needed to be done. To be honest anyway. I am well aware of the mistakes that have already happened, I just want to avoid more.
Also, this is basically a "learning experience" for me now. I already replaced the bass, and the appraisal for a fretboard removal was more than I picked this up for (I picked it up for ($300)
Don't feel so bad, I could tell you about the time I tried to de-fret my American DLX P and make it a fretless. Key word: TRIED. Fortunately, people on Ebay actually bought most of it when I parted it out.
I'm having trouble figuring out what you did but since everybody gets caught on the double-acting truss rod thing, I'll guess. You wanted to adjust your truss rod a little bit and for some reason decided to remove the "nut" and tried to back it out. Well being double acting it eventually bottomed out and shoved the headstock max forward as seen in high strings in #4 post. Further attempts only got it stuck MORE. Pros looked at the bass and declared the truss rod "stuck". You in desperation come to the know-it-alls on TB to take your punishment. Note. so far all is not lost. Rule 1. DO NOT repeat DO NOT apply any force to the truss rod in the direction of "removal" that you got it stuck with in the first place. I assure you that with some effort you can turn it some more and that will snap the truss rod, strip the nut or have other dire consequences you haven't thought of yet. BE SURE all attempts to free the stuck nut are in the direction that pulls the headstock BACK from strings. Rule 2. Before trying to loosen nut try to work some thin oil or WD40 or the like in there around the nut. Yeah, it's bad for the wood, but this emergency surgery, OK? Rule 3. Here's where I'm lost. I don't know what you are talking about with glueing "setscrews" to the "nut". I just looked at both my Ibanez (206/506) and they just have allen hex head screws. In my case there are dual truss rods, in yours I guess just a single. I can't figure that photo of yours and what you are trying to do. Generally speaking with a dual acting truss rod you can't take it apart without removing the fretboard ($$$). Unlike a single-acting where a nut or screw may come off. Also epoxy will not generally suport the forces that metal parts do. that's how loctite works. The glue will hold but give way if you really apply some torque. So I don't know what to say at this stage except that since you got a "creak" out of the bass all is not yet lost. You may get it back into the range where it's pulling back the strings. That's about all I know.
Haha yes I am far beyond the point where I believe I can remove it. A set screw is a hex screw by the way. I can upload a better picture tomorrow. But yeah you hit the nail on the head as far as how I got it to this point. By the way a set screw is the type of screw used to adjust a standard p/j bass saddle. I am attempting to put one of these (bigger) into the whole which used to be a hex head screw via well gluing it basically. I have tested the strength by jb welding an allen wrench to a hex screw (both unrealted to the guitar) and hanging a 10 pound weight off of it which I may have a picture of and yes I uploaded it. Obviously the pressure from the torque would be different from the pressure of a (in this picture 5) pound weight suspended off of the bond.
Well, if you're SURE it's a double-acting rod and you're SURE it can't be moved, you've got nothing to lose-it's time to pull the fretboard off and fix it. Just go for it. Google is your friend.
Wwwwwwaaaaaay ahead of you. And I actually gain knowledge either way so it could be worth it. I have an old yamaha I could practice with, but the ibanez is neck through so idk how much different it would be. But hopefully I can get it to move and I won't have to go clothes iron my bass
It's a neck through bass, so start researching how to remove the fingerboard! Once the fingerboard is off and you've replaced the truss rod, glue on a fretless fingerboard (easier to go fretless since you won't need to find the exact spot that the previous fingerboard was for proper scale length and fret position). That's what I would do, at least. Then I would get another bass for a fretted instrument and rest easy knowing that I won't screw up that truss rod. We all make mistakes, just be glad it isn't a high dollar bass. Don't make me tell you about the time I made pickup routes with a dull chisel
It is neck through if that makes any difference. I guess better pictures are in order so ill stop being lazy and go take some. But yeah I have replaced this bass with a schecter studio 6 which I managed to adjust fairly well considering I have never worked with dual truss rods before. (Just so we clear this up I DO turn them both the SAME WAY, RIGHT?ยก bur as for the ibanez ill go take some pictures
This is a picture of the screw that I jb welded into the ex truss rod hex slot (now just a circle lol). It is about a centimeter deep in jb weld (which is in the stripped nut) and it actually kind of looks decent inside the bass. Easily accessible. The problem is getting it to stick.
I'm not an expert but it seems to me that... Looking at the truss rod nut from the end of the headstock down toward the bridge, Righty-tighty lefty-loosy. If you turned it left as far as it would go, that's lefty-loosy and your neck has 100% relief. That's what your picture looks like, the neck is not pulling back against the strings at all. I think your rod is just maxed out in that direction. I think if you turn the truss rod the other way (righty-tighty) it may turn easily and you will see your neck straighten out and the action get lower. Now; as for how to do a proper setup, there are lots of good online guides including a sticky at the top of the Hardware, Setup & Repair forum here on Talkbass. Disclaimer: The information above is for entertainment purposes only, the author does not warrant it to be useful or correct for any purpose. In other words, I try to help but if you screw up your bass it's not my fault. If it matters enough, take it to a professional luthier (other than the one who told you it was "seized".)
Ok thanks. The concensus says to turn it right. However that in picture is not the truss rod nut, it is a screw that I jb welded into the nut. The problem is getting tepoxy to stick for me to turn it right to being with.