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Discussion in 'Effects [BG]' started by luknfur, Aug 28, 2005.
Anybody know how to get into this thing without a hammer?
Mine has 4 screws on the sides. Look again
I see the screws - and removed them but I can't see where that's sufficient without at mininum pulling the knobs and removing the nuts: which to me seems a bit much for something designed to swap tubes in. You've got the knobs on the cover and jacks on the chassis so the two halves won't seperate from each other removing those 4 screws alone that I can tell. The bottom of mine is covered with velcro (not by me and I'd as soon leave it be) but I assume it's solid below.
I just want to make sure cause it's easy enough to tear something up going about the correct process without taking extra measure to remove anything not required. I figure someone here must have opened one up at some point. Manual of course is useless.
Yeah just unscrew it. If its built like the ART Levelar the wires connecting the top and bottom half of the case dont give you a ton of room to fiddle with the tube.
I am switcing out the tube in my Levelar with a Groove Tube (once it arrives). I am curious if it will be noticable.
Hmm, I'll have to pull up a pic of the levelar - but it will be the first thing in the music biz I've seen made alike if that's the case.
I don't think there's any drastic changes that come about from the tube changes from what I've gathered but sometimes minor tone variations can be major. I picked up an Amperex but it's not a Bugle Boy.
that levelar must be one rare animal cause I don't see one of those things listed on ebay - current or completed. So I'm guessing it's discontinued and not on the Art site either.
there's a shot of it from the tope view only under discontinued items at the ART site. Looks like the same housing from the top.
Does the cover wrap around with a question mark like shape ? If so, did you pull the knobs or just pry the top cover away from the chassis?
with my Levelar and MP - the top chassis fits fairly tightly onto the lower chassis. You have to carefully keep "inching" the top chassis up and it will eventually pivot off the lower chassis.
HOWEVER, it will NOT come completely disconnected as part of the circuit boards are connected to both covers. Once you've pivoted the top chassis off the lower one, you can get at the tube - be careful when "rocking the tube" out of the mount as you don't have a lot of room to work.
Don't worry, after you do it the first time you'll know how all the ART boxes are put together.
Do be careful to line up the LED posts with the holes on the top chassis when closing up the units.
I use a Groove tube 12ax7 (Sovtek) in my MP (great sound) and a NOS JAN 5751 (12at7) in the Levelar. Together they have a super, tubey tone for both vocals and/or bass.
got it guys. Thanks all, esp. vicenzajay for detail tips. I probably would have never thought about the LED.
For whatever reason, the second time I pulled the screws it essentially fell apart. The first time it was like I couldn't get them apart so I figured something was amiss.
Smash I think you may be right, just push/slide the cover toward the jacks and lift the controls end to pop it up like a car hood. Not much room and sort of dentist approach to get it out. Didn't realize the tube mount was spring loaded till I put the other tube back in.
I don't design such things but you'd think the tube would be more accessible. For some reason I was thinking 12ax7's (and the like) were a lot smaller. I guess it was a chinese tube in there cause there wasn't a mark on it.
The only real difference I could tell immediately was the Amperex is not nearly as bright (talking light not tone). The tube in it I could plainly see the tube on through the vents. The Amperex I had to actually get it in the dark to see it was even working.
I didn't expect anything significant different from what I've read from others but you'd need a dual unit (or two of units) with a pair of tubes to do any kind of comparison to know. I suppose if you had played one tube enough, replaced it and compared it to the same tunes you might be able to tell but Tone is a tricky thing and it's too easy to hear what you want to hear for me to trust that route - I'd want a side by side.
Out of curisoity, what's your impression of this unit and what do you use it for?
Which 5751? The plan was to go that route but I wanted to try the Amperex also. Ironically, I'd done my homework but didn't follow up and bought a US Amperex instead of Bugle Boy like I'd intended.
Now that you mention it, the Amperex was significantly noisier than the old tube too. The old tube was quiet unless cranked.
If you are curious about tubes, here is a site you might find interesting:
The use of the ART preamps is currently being discussed in another thread in this forum. You might try reading that.
that's the link I've been using but I appreciate it never-the-less since there's no way for you to know that.
I saw and responded to that preamp thread but hadnt seen the MP thread you're referring to - must not have been on the first page at the time I was scanning. Thanks,
I switched out the 12AT7 tube in my Levelar with a Groove Tube. The original was a Ruby tube. I noticed a minor improvement in the sound (a few hairs of clarity maybe).
I recently replaced the orig tube with a JJ 12AX7 (ECC83S) from Eurotubes.com, and was really amazed by the difference it made. Definately worth the upgrade. I use the Tube MP in front of a solid state amp for warmth. I go directly in to the main in on my combo, bypassing the amps pre, or go directly into a PA (or both).
I liked what the Tube MP did originally, but the JJ really tightened up/warmed/compressed the sound more than expected. There is a range of opinions about the Tube MP, but I know what it does for me, and I like it. It's a nice low-budget way to get some tube-iness into your rig.