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Ashdown ABM410 4ohm or 8ohm?

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Darell, Jun 30, 2005.

  1. Darell


    Mar 29, 2005
    The Netherlands
    I'm gonna buy the Ashdown ABM 410 cab, played on one today and I was really impressed!
    But my question is, should I buy the 4ohm or the 8ohm version? I don't have the money to buy another cab right now, but I do want to get everything out of my amp (Trace Elliot AH300-12SMX)
    Should I buy the 8ohm and later, when I have to money, another cab? Or just buy the 4ohm version and not be able to put another cab with it? I like to have just 1 cab, it's much easyer to move around. Will the ABM 410 (4ohm) be good enough as a stand-alone?
    What you guys think?
  2. 4 ohm cab, definitely with that head.

    300w @ 4 ohms is probably around 150-200w @ 8 ohms

    The Ashdown 410 handles 600 W, so you're really underpowering even the 4 ohm version. Its severely underpowered at 8 ohms.

    For this setup I'd definitely go with the 4 ohm cab. You could use a more powerful head, even 900-1000 W easily. That's the next good upgrade.

    8 ohm usually does give you more flexibility later, (adding another cab in addition to more power) but its so underpowered with this head, it won't work very well for you now, and it wouldn't be able to properly power another similar 8 ohm cab if you added it later anyway.

    Even with the 4 ohm cab, it doesn't prevent you from running 2 cabs in the future. Just not likely to work with this particular amp. But a stereo amp will run both 4 ohm cabs just fine, you are only prevented from running it bridged mono into a pair of 4 ohm cabs.

    The problem you'll run into with this amp/cab combo isn't that you don't have enough speakers, and need to add another. Its that you won't have enough watts, will have to upgrade the amp to solve that problem. Then maybe you can think of another cab.

    Now if you had an amp putting out about 800-1200W @ 8 ohms, THEN I'd recommend the 8 ohm version. Then the logical upgrade in the future would be another 8 ohm cab. That doesn't make sense when you're severely underpowering even the 4 ohm version.

  3. Darell


    Mar 29, 2005
    The Netherlands
    is it really so bad to put a 300watt head on a 600watt cab?
    In the shop they say that it wasn't a problem, it was a nice combo (trace head + that ashdown cab)
  4. Not if the ashdown is really efficient. Then it could be loud enough with only half its max wattage. In that case you'll never be able to push it to its full potential, but its full potential is so darn loud you don't care.

    Only a problem if its not so efficient, and REQUIRES the extra power to get plenty loud. Any idea what the sensitivity is? Units are dB/W @ 1 m? Or Max dB output at full power? Take 3 dB off the max dB output to see what it'll put out at 300 instead of 600W. Or if the sensitivity is around 100dB or more it may work out. If its in the upper 90's or lower it could be a problem. Round numbers, people can disagree where the boundary is.

    Still one camp says have more amp watts than cab watts to handle transients cleanly. I agree, others like to have your setup, more cab watts than amps. I disagree.

    I don't like to drive the amp too hard or the speaker to hard all by themselves. "Usually" better to have them both breathing hard at somewhere around the same point, with extra amp watts for transients.

    It is possible to damage cabs by being underpowered and running the amp close to/into clipping a lot. The 300W amp can put out more than 600 when clipping. Hard to do, though. More dangerous for the tweeters if you have them than the main drivers. People tend to turn down when they're clipping before the main drivers get a chance to fry. Tweeters have less tolerance.


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