I just traded here on talkbass for a 1962 AVRI P-Bass. Beautiful bass. However ... it seems that when I got it set up they weren't able to get the action that low without creating some serious dead spots around the 16-18 fret on the A and D strings. My guitar guy is REALLY good. He's fixed some doozies. This, he says, is strange. Seems the normal bow in the neck is slightly more severe than gradual and it won't come out without creating a ton of buzz down in the headstock side of the neck (you know, where you USUALLY play ). Anyway, is this normal? Is it because it's vintage style / reissue to spec? Or did I get a bum bass?
The action is also relatively high still (compared to my 2008 Am Standard P). This was built in 2009.
alright. it could be either high frets, ski-jump in the neck, or both. if you could get an up-close pic of the neck it could help.
Probably a rise at the body end of the fretboard(ski jump.) This is common in slab board and other Fender type necks. In extreme cases, a refret and board leveling can fix this.
when you brought it to your tech, did he check the nut height/frets? if it buzzes in the first position, it could be a combination of low nut/uneven frets. a fretlevel might be in order, as well as new nut assuming it's cut too low.
that's tough. I have had an issue with this with a few bolt on fenders. the 7.25 radius can make it seem more severe. some boutique builders like sadowsky and lull purposely build a "fall off" into the neck up toward the pocket to counteract this. Its not this way with all of them though. i have a 2012 AVRI that takes a nice low settup.
It's possibly a bum neck.... still - I would get a 2nd opinion on the setup. Your tech may be great but if it were me I would "try again". That is super high action & appears to have way too much relief (could be camera distortion though).
No, that shouldn't happen at the nut. Replacement nut is easy enough. But for the rest of the fret levels, if you have a metal straightedge you can evaluate for yourself if you have high or low spots that would cause buzzing. Take the neck off and adjust the truss till you get the neck totally flat. Sight each fret for gaps or rises.
Definitely too high for me too. Once you have the truss rod set to the right amount of relief, lower the action at the bridge until it's where it should be, regardless of dead notes. Then find your dead notes and you should be able to level the frets behind them (unless there's a crazy warp or twist in the neck). Typically, once you get the dead note back to a clean note, the next higher note will be dead, so sometimes you have to level 2 or 3 frets up and sometimes all the way up to the end of the neck. Not that big of a deal. I'm not sure why your tech was stumped by this neck, unless maybe it's just a lost cause. An alternate route you could try is just lighter gauge strings. Then you might have the action you want without even having to lower your saddles because the neck will have less bow in it with the lighter string tension. I can say that TIs have saved me from, or at least postponed having to do fret/neck work on a couple of basses in the past.
As mentioned, get a second opinion. Sounds like your guitar guy is mystified by your problem, which means he's reached the limit of his expertise. The best techs will know exactly what's going on with your bass and should be able to explain the situation to you, and offer solutions.
So last night in frustration, I popped the neck off myself and applied one more quarter turn on the truss rod. I did a few bridge adjustments and ended getting the action much better. There are only two frets on the A and D strings at arond 18 that buzz dead. (Still not totally acceptable, but possibly just a fret issue?) So, (a) my guitar guy have up a little too soon and (b) I'm happier with the instrument. I'll post pics shortly. Still a little surprised by the trader but, I can't speak for others' acceptance of playable and not - maybe that's the main lesson.