"BEAD" Tuning?

BEAD tuning would be more normal than DEAD tuning. Having two strings tuned so closely together would confuse the heck out of me.

 

So changing from EADG to BEAD typically would involve tweaks to the nut, the bridge settings (re-do intonation and saddle height adjustments), and maybe a truss rod adjustment. Not terribly difficult.

 

I like heavier gauge B strings, so I'd shoot for at least a .135, though you might prefer a .125. Basically get a matching single for the B and move the other 3 up one. Save the G in case you want to go back. And a set of nut files is what you need, the slots may need widening (not deepening) for the new strings gauges to seat properly. Or you could just try the strings without tweaking the nut and see if the results are satisfactory.

 

Question on playing BEAD, do you play as EADG Tuning?

 

There are (at least?) two different ways to approach BEAD tuning.

Method 1 is you learn all the notes of BEAD tuning, as they sound, so that you can play any song in its original concert-pitch key. So for example, when you fret the 1st fret of the low B string, you call that note "C" (because it *is* a C).

Method 2 is you still think of it as EADG tuning, but you mentally transpose the song down a 5th into a different key. So for example, when you fret the 1st fret of the low B string, you call that note "F" (because it would be F in standard EADG tuning). But then you have to transpose the song to the new key. For example if the song is a I-IV-V progression in C Major (C, F, G) then you would transpose to F Major and play F, Bb, C, which will actually come out sounding concert-pitch C, F, G.

Depending how your brain is wired, one method might be easier for you than the other. Whichever method you choose, it's important to be on the same page as the other musicians in your band (especially if the guitarist is used to watching your fingers!) so that you are all playing in the same key.

 

Just get a Warwick Dark Lord.

 

I have strung a few of my basses BEAD at some point or another. Some needed the nut filing, others didn't.

If you have a plastic nut, a small cut off from the string can work as a file if you don't have any nut files.

 

the danger is indeed stuffing strings that are too fat into the nut slots, you risk breaking the corners of the nut off!

get the slots filed out so the strings don't bind up in there and you're good to go. you shouldn't even need much of a truss rod adjustment, since if you think about it 3 of the four strings are the same, it's just changing a high G for a low B, and there may not be much tension difference between the two.

mostly the saddles will all need to be adjusted back and maybe raised slightly, you're now playing the lowest 4 strings of a 5 string set.