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Best and Brightest Flatwounds?

Discussion in 'Strings [BG]' started by Dean_CustomJazz, May 10, 2002.

  1. Dean_CustomJazz

    Dean_CustomJazz Guest

    Jan 23, 2002
    I'm lookin at flatwounds, and I'm curious to know what are the best and brightest available. My range is $50.00, and I have My choice of Mars Music cambrige, Guitar center boston, musician friend, or any other online store.
  2. boogiebass


    Aug 16, 2000
    If you can handle the heavy gauge, I think the Jamerson LaBella set sounds the best.
  3. Flatwounds aren't really known for being bright. Maybe some half-rounds or preasure-wounds or ground-rounds would be to your liking. They are designed to sound more like roundwounds but retain the smooth surface of flatwounds.
  4. snyderz


    Aug 20, 2000
    AZ mountains
    I use Lakland Joe Osborn stainless steel flats. I get them directly from www.lakland.com They're plenty bright for me, but that's subjective.
  5. DaveB


    Mar 29, 2000
    Toronto Ontario
    I've tried every Flat string known to man and I've settled on D'Addario Chromes on both my four and five strings. One of the reasons is that I find them fairly bright (bright for a five string, that is). They seem to cut through the band mix a lot better than most flats.
  6. Check out a set of Rotosound 77s. They're pretty bright for flatwounds and have pretty good sustain. I almost forgot; they're only about $27.00 a set.

    Mike J.
  7. I played the 9050M flats on my newly acquired MIM J fretless at last nights' gig. I'm thinking I might need some more brightness also, just to get mwah.

    Can anybody do a direct brightness comparision between the Fender 9050M and D'Addario Chrome Flats, or TI Jazz flats? Or others?

    My only reference point on this bass is the 9050M strings so far. I do have a new set of TI flats that are going onto my P, but they could take a short detour through the fretless J first. The cuts and length are the same.
  8. Back to the top:

    Does anybody have any first-hand experience comparing the TI Jazz Flats and the D'Addario Chrome Flats?

    I'm getting ready to swap a set onto my P bass. I also figured I'd have to turn up the truss rod a quarter turn for the 40 extra pounds of tension.
  9. masaru


    Aug 8, 2001
    Okinawa, Japan
    Isn't "bright flatwounds" an oxymoron, kinda like "military intelligence"?:confused:
  10. I agree with the earlier reply that the D'Addario Chrome flats are fairly bright for a flatwound. I've used the D'Addarios and believe them to be a good string, but am currently using Thomastik-Infeld Jazz Flats because they are a lower tension string than the D'Addario Chromes. The T-I flats will cost you more than $50.00 for a set for the 5-string though. The D'Addario Chrome flats are available for a 5-string for less than $50.00.
  11. bdeaux

    bdeaux Bass, the final frontier!

    Jun 13, 2002
    Salt Lake City based
    Branden Campbell
    I agree that the TI flats would seem to work for what you want to accomplish. I think I understand the sound you're going for, and if so I get that same sound with the TI flats. Plus I love the low tension.
  12. To bgavin,

    I din't have to reset my truss rods (yes, there are two) on my BTB405 when I changed from the strings that came with my bass to the D'Addario Chrome Flats. However, when I put the T-I Jazz Flats on, I turned the truss rods back because of the lower tension of the T-I strings. Even though lower tension, I find the T-I's low-B to be a little firmer than the D'Addario chrome flat low-B. Also, when setting intonation, I'd always find that my B string was sharp at the 12th fret even with the bridge adjustment all the way to the stop. After installing the T-I Jazz Flats, the intonation could be set to dead on. First time I've been precisely in tune.
  13. I have a set of DA Chromes that I want to try. I've been very happy with the tone of the TI Flats, but I find I'm getting a fair amount of fret clack when I pluck, due to low action and low tension.

    The intent of the Chrome Flats is to see if the higher tension will get me around the clacking issue. Even with a very light touch, I get it with the TI Flats. I had a set of Fender 9050M stainless flats on my fretless, and enjoyed the tension and the big size.

    Plus, I'm just plain curious about any tone difference.

    I'll make some WAV recordings of the Before and After.
  14. The DA Chrome flats may solve your problem then. I haven't had a clacking problem with the T-I Flats on mine. I was surprised that I didn't experience any clacking or fret buzz because the T-I "G" string sits lower in the nut than the DA "G". Any lower and I probably would have had to replace the nut. But, everything plays well.
  15. My clacking issue is low-bridge related. I'm sure I could raise the bridge and get away from it, but I like the low action.

    I have this set of DA Chrome Flats, and am mostly curious to see if they change the tone, and if the higher tension eliminates the clacking. The TI Flats are hard to beat for tone.
  16. Rotosound Jazz77 might be the answer, they are fairly bright and aggressive. IMHO I liked them better that the Chromes, which are also fairly bright. The Jazz77 are high tension, but so are the Chromes. Might take some getting used to.
  17. No Rotosounds for me. Ever.


    The DA Chromes are about 40 pounds more tension, and on a par with the stock strings. Roto does not publish tension, so I have no idea.
  18. I don't remember if I ever asked this question, but, will high tension really harm a bass' neck?
    Or will a turn of the truss rod solve this problem?

    I mean, why would a manufacturer make strings that would actually harm an instrument? Wouldn't the word eventually get out and then no one would use those strings. At least, wouldn't they come with some sort of warning?

    I honestly don't know. :confused:

    Mike J.
  19. The old Rickenbackers were designed for low tension strings. It is my understanding they can be damaged by high tension ones.

    The Rotosound are the high end of tension, which is irritating to me only because of the amount of neck stress. The real issue I have with Rotos is how rough the roundwounds are on the frets and fingers.

    For the DA Chromes, I figure I should probably do a 1/4 turn adjustment on my truss rod when the strings are off, as a pre-emptive measure for the higher tension strings. I'm still waiting on a positive answer to this question.

    [ edit ]

    Michael Dolan, luthier for Dolan Guitars says 1/4 is a good starting point for the higher tension strings.
  20. I'm not a professional technician, so if someone else is, listen to them if their information contradicts mine. I suggest that you not remove all the strings at one time to make the string change. Just change one string at a time to maintain stabilitly in the neck. Check the neck for any improper neck curve after making the change and then adjust the truss rod if necessary. You may find you have to loosen one string to access the truss rod or to remove the truss rod cover.

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