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Best Epoxy

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by 7StringBassist, Mar 26, 2009.

  1. I pulled the frets off my conklin and I'm wondering whats the best epoxy or wax so it doesn't scratch the board when I use stainless rounds
  2. 62bass


    Apr 3, 2005
    They'll all eventually show wear from strings. There is no finish as hard as steel.

    There is a sticky somewhere which goes into great detail about coating fingerboards with epoxy.
  3. Even steel will show wear from strings, eventually. Just look at the fretwire on any bass.
  4. stevetx19


    Sep 28, 2006
    Denton, Texas
    most frets are nickel/brass...SS frets are relatively rare, though they are becoming more popular. They are supposed to wear much slower, but you are correct, they will still wear down eventually.
  5. stevetx19


    Sep 28, 2006
    Denton, Texas
    but to help the op, i believe that West System epoxy is popular around here. The how-to section should have a tutorial on the process and there are probably several other threads with instructions as well.
  6. 62bass


    Apr 3, 2005
    You are correct. System 3 is good too. Many of the boat building epoxies are suitable. I've also used a pour on epoxy made for coating bar tops, available from home Depot and other outlets. The OP should read up on it before starting. It requires careful work to get a professional looking job.
  7. I was looking at system 3
    based on the "how to" sticky
    but thanks a million I'm going to lay it on today :D
    and do about 5 coats
  8. 62bass


    Apr 3, 2005
    Good luck. Don't get any on your skin or in your eyes. Mask off every place you don['t want it. Make sure your fingerboard is sanded level and is clean.

    Once that stuff cures there's no getting it off.
  9. powerbass


    Nov 2, 2006
    western MA
    I have used the Clear Coat product by System 3 for several fingerboards. It is a very durable/tough finish and mixing ratios are 2:1. Some of the epoxies are temperature sensitive, meaning they don't cure well below 50º. I had to use a space heater to get the temperature up to 70-80º (a cold basement during a cold New England winter) for a complete cure. Once the epoxy has cured you can level it between coats, then use finer grits to achieve a mirror finish. Good luck
  10. Warming it with a heat gun does a nice job of softening it, you can scrape it off with a plastic paint scraper.

    System 3 is very sensitive to the mix ratio - you need a gram scale to get it right (2.27 to 1 by weight for Mirror Coat), otherwise it will not cure hard. West System is a little more forgiving that way.

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