Best method for securing speaker to baffle?

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by PennyroyalWe, Nov 13, 2020.


  1. PennyroyalWe

    PennyroyalWe

    Sep 2, 2018
    Oregon
    I recently built a 1x12 open backed cabinet, and I’m looking for the best way to screw the speaker to the baffle. Currently I have it held on by four screws from my random screws bin that seemed to be the sturdiest, but it’s not an ideal long term solution. I was thinking of using threaded inserts, but all the ones I’ve found seem to be for 1/4”-20 bolts and I think that will be too wide to pass through the screw holes on a speaker as the two I have lying around have holes that measure .18”. Any suggestions on what else might work?

    PS: I’m loading the cab with an eminence Alpha 12a, to use as a guitar & bass cab. It currently has a Fender musicmaster bass speaker in it, but that’s going back into the combo amp once this is settled.
    0CFFF4E6-A61B-42E8-846F-05374BE6D5C9.jpeg
     
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  2. JRA

    JRA my words = opinion Supporting Member

    T-nuts are a time-tested solution.
     
  3. PennyroyalWe

    PennyroyalWe

    Sep 2, 2018
    Oregon
    Only problem there is that those go in from the opposing side, right? So I’d have to take off and redo the grill cloth, which I’d like to avoid because I’m still shocked it went on as nicely as it did the first time. Do they work inserted in the same direction as the bolt will be going?
     
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  4. abarson

    abarson

    Nov 6, 2003
    Santa Cruz
    I hope the open back cab is intended for guitar, not bass. You won't get much bass response otherwise.
     
    Peter Torning likes this.
  5. JRA

    JRA my words = opinion Supporting Member

    the "t" is on one side/surface of the baffle and the head of the bolt on the other side.

    t nut.JPG
     
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  6. You rear mounted the speaker to the baffle? Most bass speakers are set up for face mounting.

    If the replacement can go rear mounted you theoretically could wind in T nuts into the grill side by drawing them in but it would be easy to mess up.
     
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  7. PennyroyalWe

    PennyroyalWe

    Sep 2, 2018
    Oregon
    Hmm, that’s an idea. I’d have to get them into the holes without stretching or tearing the grill fabric too, which is another challenge.
     
  8. Killing Floor

    Killing Floor Supporting Member

    Feb 7, 2020
    Austin, TX
    Mojotone has a handful of proper speaker screw/bolt kits.
     
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  9. PennyroyalWe

    PennyroyalWe

    Sep 2, 2018
    Oregon
    It’s a cab for both. I’m not worried so much about it getting the bast bass response, I just don’t want to blow the speaker playing bass through it, so I chose the Alpha 12 after talking with the eminence rep.
     
  10. basscooker

    basscooker Commercial User

    Apr 11, 2010
    cincy ky
    Owner, ChopShopAmps
    T nuts are also available in #8-32
     
  11. They have them in #10 also, which would be better for a heavy speaker. Not sure if they were 10-32 or 10-24.
     
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  12. basscooker

    basscooker Commercial User

    Apr 11, 2010
    cincy ky
    Owner, ChopShopAmps
    #10-24, yeah. I've had issues with the 1/4-20 and the #10-24 not leaving much between the mounting hole and speaker cutout for the spike to bite, and pushing inner layers of ply out into the cutout area.
     
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  13. PennyroyalWe

    PennyroyalWe

    Sep 2, 2018
    Oregon
    After visiting mojotone and seeing that the “British style screws” were just 10-32 screws, I got to searching and found the threaded inserts in 10-24, and some 1/2” 10-24 screws, at Lowe’s. I just drove on over and got them, I’ll try putting them in tomorrow. Hopefully this will work, because I really don’t want to redo the grill cloth.
    FA6B5331-322F-4F17-A8B6-0E5591471C8D.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2020
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  14. fdeck

    fdeck Supporting Member Commercial User

    Mar 20, 2004
    Madison WI
    HPF Technology LLC
    I use wood screws, something like this, backed up with a small washer. My rationale is that I'm only using neo drivers nowadays, and in any event my speakers are designed for fairly light duty use. I've never had a screw come loose or pull out.

    I understand there's a certain pride of workmanship from over-designing things and making them "pro," but I'm not sure it's fundamentally necessary.

    upload_2020-11-13_21-56-51.png
     
  15. agedhorse

    agedhorse Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 12, 2006
    Davis, CA (USA)
    Development Engineer-Mesa, Product Support-Genz Benz
    10-24 is not good for speakers, vibration can loosen them. 10-32 is the standard.

    An Alpha 12 in an open back cabinet is going to struggle with much more than 75 watts for bass guitar. It will be easier to damage than you realize.
     
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  16. PennyroyalWe

    PennyroyalWe

    Sep 2, 2018
    Oregon
    I’m only pushing 15 watts through it. Perhaps I’ll add a drop of elmers to the screws to keep them from loosening.
     
  17. PennyroyalWe

    PennyroyalWe

    Sep 2, 2018
    Oregon
    That’s about what I had going on before. If this turns out to be unreliable, I think I’ll go back to those.
     
  18. Redbrangus

    Redbrangus Supporting Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    Under The X In Texas
    @agedhorse is correct (as usual) - 10-32 hardware is virtually standard, but I doubt the different pitch of the screws you used would make much difference in this application. Loc-tite is the preferred product for securing machine screws -- use the blue if you're ever going to need to remove the screws, which of course, you will.
     
  19. braud357

    braud357

    Jul 1, 2010
    Gonzales, LA
    I have attached many bass speakers with #8 screws into plywood baffles, and have never had any of them loosen up ! No need to overbuild this particular cabinet - it should do fine ! Mount it with 8 screws and it will NEVER come loose !
     
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  20. 2saddleslab

    2saddleslab Supporting Member

    May 30, 2003
    Kentucky
    I use T nuts on speakers & handles.:thumbsup:
     
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