I heard that the Russian made Big Muff darkens the sound (cuts treble) when the effect is turned off... Since I´ve been thinking of buying one, I´d like to know is this true? If it is true, does the American made Big Muff do the same thing?
Yep. The father of a friend designed the original Big Muff, and it is by no means a true bypass--the signal is considerably loaded down when not run through the distortion circuitry. It takes 6 extra solder joints and a slightly more expensive switch to wire a true bypass, which might amount to an extra $1 in production costs--but, considering that an NYC Big Muff probably costs $20 to make, shaving off that $1 means a lot more profit for E-H. Shameful.
Does anyone have any idea where or how I could get my Big Muff wired for true-bypass? This would help me out a LOT. I'm thinking about getting the EHX Bass Balls, is it true-bypass or not?
If the bassballs is true bypass or not i don't know. but i do know that im getting one! i have heard alot of good stuff about them on reviews etc the only thing bad i heard is that they break easily. But hey i tried one out and it was great.
Bearing in mind that I am a player not a tech, I understand that EH pedals have buffered bypass but use the Carling switch so they can be wired for true bypass IF you know how to do it. I dont. There is a guy called Analogue man (or Analogue Mike) who will mod them http://www.analogman.com/#eh Please note that I have not dealt with him or heard any of his products but he comes highly recommended on harmony central (whatever thats worth).
Yes, but it's the wrong style of switch. You need a DPDT to wire true bypass. The pedals come stock with a SPST. A good place to learn about this type of stuff is Aaron's stompbox page, or geofex. All are linked off www.ampage.org
Hi, I've got the schem. for the B.B. but it's too big to post here. If you like I can email you it. By the look of things, when the effect is bypassed the signal still goes through a 1458 chip! So I would think it sucks tone big time when not in use.
i spoke to someone at EHX a while ago and he told me the russain made ones were NOT true bypass, and the american made ones were true bybass. i own the russain bassballs, and i know that is NOT bypass, and i have the new Double Muff and that IS bypass. i can not speak for the big muff, though.
I´m getting worried here. I´ve just bought a russian Big Muff. Does this 'not true bypass' affect the sound very much?
Not much. Some don't care and others claim they can hear it. The only real advantage it serves me in a live situation is that if a pedal dies the rest will work. I don't care one way or another, but a J. Everman at jeverman.com can convert yours to a true-bypass for about $30 if you're really worried. Otherwise it's not a big deal IMO unless you're recording. If it's not true bypass, the signal flows through the entire circuit as opposed to directly from the in to the out. You experience a bit of attenuation and signal loss, but unless you're running twenty pedals back to back you shouldn't notice much.
There is sort of a cheat to get round this. I use a Zoom 506II (First effects unit, had retired long ago untill I brought it back) after my Muff as an eq. I have 3 patches - 1. Slight bass boost (because pedal sucks some low end) 2. Big bass boost and small treble boost (To correct for no true bypass) 3. Treble boost, for some quite surreal fuzz sounds. Using this method you can leave the settings on the muff alone, correct for not having true bypass, correct for the fact that the pedal sucks some low end and have three different fuzzes at the touch of a pedal. Jack
Yep, the Double Muff in single mode tends to be more timid than the Big Muff on any setting, while in Double Mode, it's much more aggressive. But, generally, I find that the Double Muff is harsher than the typically warm American, but warmer than the typically harsh Ruskie. It's a great pedal, my only complaint is that you can't switch modes with your foot....yet