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Binding "How-To"

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by i_got_a_mohawk, Sep 1, 2005.

  1. Im getting a cheap banger bass, and was planning on modding it a bit, one of those mods being putting binding on the neck &/or body

    Anyone have links to a good tutorial, it seems simple enough

    carefully route out trench for the binding, appy some of the specific glue for it, then just tape it down or hold it in with rubber bands

    but i could easily be over looking something :oops:
  2. dlloyd

    dlloyd zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

    Apr 21, 2004
  3. cheers for the link, but seeing that alone would probably cost about half what the bass i got did, then i think i'll just stick with doing it by hand, would be nice, but im fine with this being time consuming :)

    (aslong as its cheap eh ;) )
  4. Matthew Bryson

    Matthew Bryson Guest

    Jul 30, 2001
    You could always take the Fender Geddy Lee approach… oh wait, you really wanted binding. ;)
  5. whats that? run some masking tape along the side and just leave it on? :smug:
  6. Matthew Bryson

    Matthew Bryson Guest

    Jul 30, 2001
    Hey, they remove the masking tape! The paint job on my Geddy *almost* really looks like binding & blocks :p
  7. I do binding - what do you want to know? How hard it is or why you shouldn't try it? Which one first? ;)
  8. how easy it is to kill myself in the process should do :)

    ive gone of the idea because the banger bass i got has a contoured bit that wouldnt work with binding

    anyway, for the fullness of the thread, elaborate hambone :)
  9. First off, binding isn't all that hard but it does require a special router bit and enough skill to not screw up. If you do, there is little that can be done to make an invisible repair.

    You can't put binding on a corner that isn't square - radius corners don't work. The idea is pretty much what was stated before. A narrow ledge is routed in the transitional edge between the top and the sides of the body. The height and depth of the cut would depend on the particular binding being used but it will be smaller than the binding so that the binding can be scraped back to the level of the wood and made smooth. One can use a premade celluloid or plastic binding like the ivoiroid/black/ivoroid that I used here:


    or you can build up your own combination with thin strips of plastic or wood glued up individually. The glue used will depend on the binding material and the time needed for curing. Some guys use CA with an accelerator and that works good while others use Weld-On cement for acrylic bindings. The MIMF has more on the different things people have tried in this regard.

    I start next to the neck and work around the body if I have a piece long enough. If I'm working with two pieces, I start at the center of the tail and make my perfect joint there then work around both sides to the front. Fast set glues will allow you to "glue and hold" and that's my technique. Sometimes I'll use some tape but usually I just hold it in place until the glue sets, then I move the the next section. I work in 3-4" sections when the going is clear. If there is a bend or break in the border, I shorten that distance up to accomodate the terrain. Once the binding is attached, I go back and fill any small gaps - but there shouldn't be any.

    Scraping can be done with just about anything but I like boxcutter blades in my own little holder so that I can hold it perpendicular to the top or side and just pull it around the body, pulling off nice long curls of binding. Once I've shaved it down to just about even with the top, I'll finish sand the top and that levels the edge perfectly. The faces of the binding along the edge are where I'll use the scraper exclusively because it's too hard to get the binding even just with sanding.

    That's about it. Hope it helps
  10. Karl Kaminski

    Karl Kaminski Supporting Member

    Aug 26, 2008
    I'd like to ask..
    Do you have a suggestion to add binding to an old neck?

    The problem is that there is no square edge to route with.
    The fingerboard has a radius, and the sides are tapered.
    i thought of using a router table with a fence, and radius wedges under the fingerboard (face down on the table)
    BUt the head stock would be in the way.

    Is free-hand the only way to go?