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biscuit jointing

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Anti_Wish, Nov 16, 2004.


  1. Anti_Wish

    Anti_Wish

    May 14, 2004
    Boston, Ma
    i am making a bass for wood shop (my 2nd home made!) and instead of using a one piece body i want to make a multi-laminate bass, not as severe as the rainbow bass, im making a 7 piece top out of maple, ebony and mahogany. but my question is that do you guys use biscuit jointers on the body woods? my shop teacher said i should for strength and to keep it stable while gluing... the top will be about 1/4 in. so i am not going biscuit that, but the rest of the body is about 1 1/2 in. and is probably gonna be ash or alder.
     
  2. Dirk Diggler

    Dirk Diggler Supporting Member

    Mar 3, 2004
    Anytown USA
    Just use a good poly glue like gorilla glue. And carefully use clamps and plenty of them. The problem with biscuits is they are made of a different wood that will expand and contract differently than the other wood. Also there's a chance that there will be a void around the biscuit. I was tempted to use a biscuit on my neck through makeover, especially since my wings were cut at a 5 degree angle. But I was advised by a fellow wood worker not to do that because the reasons above. Also the new glues work very well and fast.
    Good Luck,
    Dirk
     
  3. PasdaBeer

    PasdaBeer

    Nov 2, 2002
    Santa Rosa California
    SandStorm Designs
    gorilla is a bad idea, poly glues make to large of a glue joint, and are genraly poreus( sp )

    titebond type ONE or all wood expoxy available from LMI are your best bets.

    - Zac

    and you shouldnt need a biscuit, as long as its glued up well.
     
  4. gyancey

    gyancey

    Mar 25, 2002
    Austin, TX
    I like the white Instrument Makers glue from LMII. You don't need biscuits.
     
  5. I agree with about the lack of need for biscuits. I've never used them and everything has come out fine.

    I also agree about not using the polyurethane glues for this particular glue joint. ANY and I mean ANY imperfection in the joint will fill with the foamy glue and cannot be stained. This is great glue for a strong hold but it just doesn't cut the mustard when the joint has got to pass a critical visual test. I know this because I did my first bass with the polyurethane glue 5 years ago and just this year, redid the seam so it wasn't as ugly.

    The other glues mentioned are great and will work fine. I've used these too. Right now, I'm sold on the Better Bond cold press veneer glue. It cures to a hard film that won't let veneer creep and that works great for general instrument construction. It has pecan shells in it for tint and you don't see it as badly as other glues. It's also a bit less expensive when bought in quarts. Here's where I get it from:

    http://www.joewoodworker.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=49
     
  6. Anti_Wish

    Anti_Wish

    May 14, 2004
    Boston, Ma
    thanks guys