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Broken Plastic - What Do You Do?

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by DiabolusInMusic, Mar 26, 2014.

  1. DiabolusInMusic

    DiabolusInMusic Functionless Art is Merely Tolerated Vandalism Supporting Member

    I had the backpack for my Markbass SD800 break on me yesterday. The straps are held on by little plastic triangles for lack of a better description. One of the triangles broke, and my head crashed to the concrete.

    I was just going to use some J.B plastic weld, maybe crazy glue. Depends what buddy has on hand. I figured I would ask what you guys are doing before I did anything. Never know if anybody has any crazy tricks up their sleeves. I was debating getting a friend to try and machine me a steel one, which is obviously the best method, but I need something for gig time this weekend ideally.

    Since I know some of you are curious, the zipper now sticks at the corner as some teeth got smashed out; the corner of the head is smashed up and shiny, kind of like when T-2000 gets hit with a shotgun; however, the head works fine (so far.) I have been trying to de-throne this head for the last year or so, and have not found anything I prefer better. This incident made me love it more.
  2. 96tbird

    96tbird PLEASE STAND BY Supporting Member

    Don't trust repaired plastic on your straps. Get some large key rings and thread those on.
  3. I would replace those plastic triangles with metal D rings. You should be able to find them at most larger hardware stores.

    Another option would be to use the metal rings used on key rings.
  4. I could help a little more if I knew what the broken part looks like and how wide the strap is. That's something I'd usually use a repair buckle or non-welded metal D ring on. Gimme a photo and I can probably help more. I buy military grade buckles and plastic parts by the thousands, and the failure rate is a tiny fraction of a percent. Not all plastic parts are created equal. But if it broke once, it'll break again; that's inferior material.
  5. coughiefiend


    Nov 12, 2013
    I seem to have replaced just about every plastic clip, o-ring, d-ring etc on everything in my house. I tend to go overboard, but I tend to use carabiners (climbing equipment) you can get them in all sizes, and some have a locking collar. Heck, quite often I use them and get rid of the clip part of the strap too, they work great and can be had for little money if you shop, and aren't actually planning to use them to climb with.

    Something like this would probably work well: http://www.amazon.com/Purple-Alumin...oor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1396014410&sr=1-24

  6. Stone Soup

    Stone Soup

    Dec 3, 2012
  7. DiabolusInMusic

    DiabolusInMusic Functionless Art is Merely Tolerated Vandalism Supporting Member

    Sorry for my delayed response, hectic week. Here is a pic, it is about 2" long. The space is pretty tight, I am leaning towards the D ring I think. Anybody solder them closed? I am debating it. I am going to have to find a suitable replacement first, I have to break the old plastic one off in order to get it out.

    Thanks for the helps guys, I never would have been smart enough to just get a D ring.

    Attached Files:

  8. fhm555

    fhm555 So FOS my eyes are brown Supporting Member

    Feb 16, 2011
    Get some steel clips just like the plastic ones you already have, then take the whole mess to an upholstery shop. they can cut the stitches loose install the new rings then stitch it back.
  9. JustForSport


    Nov 17, 2011
    D rings (steel) with carabiner clips would be a good combo.
    'Steel' clips that look like your plastic clips are usually cast pot-metal, and not much stronger (if any) than the plastic ones.
    You may be able to find some steel ones, tho.
  10. Pilgrim

    Pilgrim Supporting Member

    No plastic. Metal connectors anchored by very stout stitching or rivets (preferably stitching AND rivets) or rivet straps directly to the object or case being carried. If rivets not available, use machine screws and nylon locking nuts with washers on each side of the machine screw.

    Cheap carabiners can come loose when the levers get flipped by a twisted strap. If you must use them, get the type that screw closed, not snap closed.
  11. fhm555

    fhm555 So FOS my eyes are brown Supporting Member

    Feb 16, 2011
    While this may be true for the lookalike clips found on clothing, handbags, etc., the chain and rope section of your friendly neighborhood home labyrinth will contain some forged examples that will be strong enough to pull the family truckster if required. If you can't find forged steel, cast brass will also be plenty strong enough to outlast the bag.
  12. bobalu


    Oct 1, 2004
    above the 49th
    Don't even try to glue it. Plastic/nylon plastic especially is a very difficult material to glue with any success. As a strap buckle (stressed piece) it simply won't hold under load. Good alternatives suggested here by others. Metal D-rings is what I would use. ;)
  13. JustForSport


    Nov 17, 2011
    Agreed- what 'looks like steel' may in fact NOT be, but rolled or forged hdwe will do the job (if the stitching is also up to par).
  14. Pilgrim

    Pilgrim Supporting Member

    Securing anything with "little plastic triangles" seems highly inadequate.

    Most kinds of glue are inflexible and break almost immediately when applied to flexible materials that are moved. Contact cement is an exception, but it's not suitable for the OP's request.

    To secure something like a backpack, I'd double over the strap material, add a layer of leather as a reinforcement on the outside, then use a hole punch to punch through the leather and both layers of the strap. Then I'd make a hole through the backpack and a second piece of leather which will go inside the backpack as reinforcement.

    Then I'd use either an appropriate rivet or a short machine screw with a washer on the outside, and a washer and locking acorn nut (with a nylon locking insert) on the inside of the backpack. The smooth surface of the acorn nut would prevent scratching objects inside the backpack. Heck, an Army surplus duffel bag would probably work.

    The strap would then be secured with three thicknesses of material on the outside (two thicknesses of strap and one of leather) and two thicknesses on the inside (backpack and leather).

    Do it right with this or a similar scheme, or don't bother. You don't want to depend on anything but a stout mechanical connection and you don't want to take a chance on your securing hardware pulling through the backpack material.

    Better solution and less work: get a better quality bag or backpack that's made with better construction. Porta-Brace makes commercial quality carry cases and protective gear - a good way to carry a head worth hundreds of collars, but quite pricey. Pelican makes excellent hard-shell cases, and the larger ones come with rollers. For that matter, an Army surplus duffel bag would probably hold a small head.
  15. Dang, that's a lot of work just to repair a pack strap. Use good (ITW/Nexus) hardware for the repair and it'll cost you a few bucks. We build packs to go to war and only use ITW/Nexus acetal nylon buckles. They're plenty strong enough and then some.

    First, you'll need to find a stitch bitch that's capable to taking that part of the pack apart; that may be a deal breaker for you. Around here, across from Fort Campbell, I can think of five places that aren't our factory. However, if you can't find a seamstress with an industrial class machine, your better path may just be to buy a better quality pack and chuck the one that broke.