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Buckle Rash on a Natural Finish Stiletto Custom-5

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Eschaton, Mar 30, 2015.

  1. IMG_0993.JPG IMG_0997.JPG IMG_1004.JPG I'm not sure if Schecter uses a Poly or some kind of clear. (I would assume there is some kind of sealer, but it's either REALLY thin or I can't see it)

    I've got some nasty buckle rash on the back of my number one player that's accumulated over time.

    How would I go about fixing this (or at least making it a little less offensive to my delicate sensibilities)?

    Just assume I'm an idiot and give me a detailed step-by-step, if you could.
  2. Gilmourisgod


    Jun 23, 2014
    Cape Cod MA
    You could probably steam out the worst of the dents with a common clothes iron, but that will require stripping to bare wood, in which case you are in for a full refin anyway. That looks like a thin poly finish of some kind. Maybe one of the tech gurus will have a suggestion, if so I'd like to hear it. I put a ding in my brand new home built mahogany body right after finishing with Danish Oil, which as far as I know is not steam permeable. In your shoes I'd probably strip the whole body to bare wood, steam/sand out the dents, and refinish it with Tru-Oil or Danish oil. That looks like a three piece mahogany body, but decent color match. Clear Tru-Oil would keep it the same light color, or you could tint the oil for something darker. Good luck with it, curious to hear what an expert suggests.
  3. Beej


    Feb 10, 2007
    Victoria, BC
    If this were brought to me for repair, I'd probably advise you that a refinish on a simple clear coat would be less expensive than all the time spent trying to repair that damage and blend it in. The point of that being that its' less work to refinish the back of the bass, and scuff coat the rest of it, then clear coat it all, than it would be to steam and work over each dent and then try to blend that finish. Hope that makes sense.

    I'd probably sand the back until it was smooth, maybe taking 1/16" off the surface, or just enough to bring those scratches flush. Then scuff sand the rest of the bass. 220 would probably do it, but I like to sand closer to 400 myself. The complicating factor is that those finishes duplicate an open grained look by spraying a thin coat over the sanded wood, and not doing a complete grain fill. That way, when you look at the bass in oblique light, there appears to be grain visible on the finish. This will effect will probably be lost when you re-clearcoat the bass, and the entire thing will either look glossy or satin, depending on what kind of clear you use. Its early am, not sure if I'm explaining this well... :)
  4. I want to say it's a polyester finish. Yes you guys are being helpful. I'm not super set on a refinish but it's an idea I've been kicking around for a little while.

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