Buffing topcoat to shine

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by jbay, Sep 14, 2003.

  1. jbay


    May 23, 2002
    Need some help here. I coated a body with Minwax Polyshades colored polyurethane. I've progressively wetsanded to 2000 grit. I got a really smooth cloudy finish.

    I then use rubbing compound, and it still remained cloudy. I buffed with paste wax and it was still kinda cloudy. I used repo car polish and it got even cloudier. And the haze wasn't there before wet sanding, so I dun think it's cos of humidity.

    Any suggestions? Izzit possible that I didn't wait long enough after applying the last coat? I waited for bout 36 hours before wetsanding and buffing.
  2. Thor

    Thor Moderator Staff Member Gold Supporting Member

    I am a big believer in using separate products for staining and finishing.

    Before trying to solve this specific problem, I have a few suggestions for the people who may confront this same issue.

    I would have stained the the work first until I was satisfied with the color. Then I would have steel wooled any imperfections, and allowed it to dry thoroughly.

    I would then have applied the desired level of gloss with [ dull cote or glosscote] clearcote, sprayed with an airbrush, not painted. Steel wool very lightly between coats. 3 coats or so. Very thin.

    After the last one, I would have buffed it with FUTURE floor wax.

    If I were you at this point, I would strip the wax off. Use alcohol or lighter fluid [naptha] or acetone, test to see what dissolves the crud off.

    After you have it clean, spray clearcote it. Keep it thin. Very fine steel wool between the coats, only to level any imperfections. [ It should already be pretty smooth.] Once it is clearcoted, finish it with FUTURE. No more rubbing or sanding, you have levelled enough.

    If you are nervous about it, finish a big piece of scrap wood the same way you did. Then do what I suggested and see how well it comes out.

    All those tips are based on tips I have gotten out of 'Fine Scale Modeler' magazine.

    Good luck.