Build alpha: Rob Allen inspired

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Beauchene Implements, Feb 3, 2008.

  1. ClaytonH

    ClaytonH

    Mar 10, 2009
    Hudson, OH
    How many coats did you apply?
    And instructions would help:)
     
  2. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    Wow. that really gives me a few ideas. Is the string saddle parallel to the centerline? Ho does that affect intonation? I know thats how uprights are, and it doesn't need to be as spot on with a fretless, but i would still try to put a little angle in the saddle for intonation, then again, i fixate on things. Could you explain the electronics on that, like what you used, and how much did it cost you?

    I was wondering if you had any suggestions or tips on making a wood style bridge. could you explain a little about yours? do you think it would work to have an unslotted fret as the saddle, and have the string spacing be correct when the strings come through the top, or does the saddle piece need groves where the strings go past them?

    btw. it sux that the first neck went bad. that was awsome.
     
  3. Beauchene Implements

    Beauchene Implements Commercial User

    Dec 31, 2007
    Maine
    Technician at NS Design
    Clayton- just a single coat of epoxy, brushed on, sanded and buffed out. A few months ago I ended up sanding it all off the top and tung oiling it, to see if it affected tone at all--it did not. Changing the neck materials changed the sound noticeably, though. See pic below (the mahogany is under epoxy.)

    Jordan- The bridge, saddle, and nut are lignum vitae. I used a Fishman under-the-saddle piezo transducer and preamp that are designed for acoustic guitars--see earlier in the thread for details. The saddle is canted slightly off-perpendicular from the centerline...the E string is 32" nut-to-saddle, and the G string is 32 3/16". The harmonic matches the note at the 12th position on all strings, so intonation is as good as it needs to be. The saddle is also tilted back from perpendicular to the bass top, to provide more direct pressure onto the piezo. Again, more details earlier in the thread. Clarifying pics below.

    IMG_3277.jpg

    IMG_3267.jpg

    IMG_3272.jpg

    IMG_3274.jpg
     
  4. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    My lignum looks way different. I am not sure what type it is. I was planing for my body to be solidbody. If i made the control cavity larger, to fit the piezo under the bridge, would it work ok? How much space is there between the top of the saddle, and the piezo? Electronics always make me confused. How is that system wired up?

    I just checked the price. i may have to rethink using something that costs that much, because i was planing mine to be a cheap build that i could sell at a profit for more tools if it was good enough.
     
  5. sounds great! (except the So What riff:bag: )
     
  6. dblbass

    dblbass Commercial User

    Mar 24, 2007
    Beacon, NY
    Owner of MBJ guitars, Maker of fine sawdust for Carl Thompson Guitars
    Huh....the lower strings are usually farther away from the nut than the high strings. Am I missing something?