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Building a custom 2x10 enclosure.

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Bassist13, Sep 13, 2010.


  1. Bassist13

    Bassist13

    Nov 19, 2008
    Barrie, Ontario
    I have 2 ashdown blueline speakers that I would like to make into an 8ohm cab. I'm sooo new to this I don't even know where to start looking, programs, dimensions, wiring etc. If there is a thread that could help me with this please direct me :bag:

    thanks :)
     
  2. billfitzmaurice

    billfitzmaurice Commercial User

    Sep 15, 2004
    New Hampshire
    Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
    There's quite a few in the FAQ.
     
  3. BassmanPaul

    BassmanPaul Inactive

    The Bluelines will have to be either 4Ω or 16Ω to get to your target impedance. You will also need to have the TS parameters of the drivers in order to make a decent job of it.

    Paul
     
  4. Bassist13

    Bassist13

    Nov 19, 2008
    Barrie, Ontario
    hmm. Can I make the cabinet 4 ohm then ?, both drivers are 8 ohms.
     
  5. Start by reading about thiel ratings etc.
     
  6. Bassdirty

    Bassdirty Supporting Member

    Jul 23, 2010
    CT
    Yes, Two 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel = 4 ohms.

    But I agree, you should do some reading about it.
     
  7. Just letting you know, there's been a few guys on here posting threads on DIY cabs that have been shot down by criticism. I notice everyones being quite nice here as a result, some of these guys got scared off a bit. Just to preempt them the normal negative arguments are
    a) for a traditional style cab its often cheaper to buy (especially if you consider your labour costs, even at a low cost per hour),
    b) traditional cabs have some large inherent design flaws that modern DIY cabs address (such as the fEarful design) and
    c) there aren't any designs premade for 2x10 (that I know of, and especially for your specific drivers) so its better using someone elses proven idea rather than your "guess"

    Seeing as you already have the speakers, these things are probably not a concern but it is important that you are aware of these things so you can make an informed decision.

    As I mentioned one popular design around here is the fEarful design, so if inclined check out the wiki, http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Fearful™_12/6_&_15/6
    Not only does it have a lot of info about the fEarful specifically, but also plenty of build photo tutorials and other information that is useful and applicable to any cab build.

    After saying that, here are some threads on 210 builds. Most of them are a few years old, mostly as cab DIYers tend to use a modern design these days.


    Found by typing "2x10 build" into search.

    Not another 2x10 DIY Project?!?
    http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=480597

    2x10 DIY cabinet, help needed!
    http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=472134

    DIY 210....a little help?
    http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=615451

    2x10 DIY Cabinet Project in Progess
    http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223836

    Copy pasted from Roundwound from that thread

    Based on what I learned from my project, I'll give you a few pointers here for your design:

    "*Use good BASS speakers. Spend the extra money and use good NEO speakers with a high SPL and Xmax. Look at Eminence NEOs. I have an Avatar NEO 4x10 and those NEOs have some nice low end and don't fart on my low B string during high volume levels. The Madison Warriors I'm using don't have the lowest tuning (65hz) and are heavy enough. They are good mid-drivers, but will be replaced with Eminences eventually since I've beat them up with a lot of low b notes. Also beware of raw 10" drivers that are also used in manufacturer's PA systems. They may say that they will work in bass applications, but you really want a 10" speaker designed specifically for BASS applications, hence the Eminence NEOs.

    *I used 3/4 inch plywood pretty much all over, and this baby is heavy. You can get away with good 1/2 birch ply with HEAVY bracing. This will save some weight.

    *Design your speaker layout to go vertical. When I place my cab on its side, for some reason it sounds better. Bill Fitzmaurice gave me this tip and explanation early in the thread and I incorporated some of this idea, but I should have layed them out totally vertical.

    *Use ports and line the inside the cab with foam to help increase the low end. Regular insulation can work, but over time you may not want microscopic fiberglass floating around and interacting with your nice drivers.

    *I'd also use a tweeter, but make it adjustable. I didn't design the adjustablility with mine and wish I had sometimes.

    *Use handles that go fully into the cabinet and are flush with the surface. Steel ones will work the best. Mine are the cheap plastic kind that aren't flush, so when I put it on its side the cab doesn't rest fully on the corners.

    *Consider adding a retractable handle with sturdy wheels so you can roll your cab and bring it along when using public transportation. Design a cover for it, too.

    *A good design can be ruined by shoddy construction. Take it slow and be thorough, especially since you'll be building a light cab. Things will need to be screwed and glued the right way.

    *Most of all, before cutting a single board, do all your homework using WinISD and don't be afraid to share your speaker/cab design graph on TB. There's a lot of brainpower here to give you help if you have questions about the tool or what you are seeing." - Ralph


    Best of luck - Marcus
     
  8. Primary

    Primary TB Assistant

    Here are some related products that TB members are talking about. Clicking on a product will take you to TB’s partner, Primary, where you can find links to TB discussions about these products.

     
    Mar 1, 2021

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