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cab project - i didnt do a search!

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by IvanMike, Oct 25, 2004.


  1. IvanMike

    IvanMike Player Characters fear me... Staff Member Supporting Member

    Nov 10, 2002
    Middletown CT, USA
    so sue me i didnt do a search
    hopefully someone can point me in the right direction
    here's my dillema
    i have an eden 1060f 10" driver sittign around that i want to put in a cabinet. I know thatwhat i'm thinking of is probably not up to the proper t/s parameters but big deal. :p
    unless i cab find an empty 1x10 box i'm thinking of basing the cab on the lil' bag end cab i praised in another thread.

    the cab is made with 3/4" birch ply
    the dimensions (hxwxd) are 13 3/4"x13 3/4"x11 1/2"
    the distance from the front to the board that holds the speaker is 1 3/4"
    the rear port is 2" flared out to 2 6/16"
    the cab has the same absorbent material in it that all bag ends do, i'm not sure what to use for that.

    anyhow, i'm assuming that the exterior boards ahould be cut with 45 degree angles where they meet (sorry no rabbet or dado joints for me). I'm a bit puzzled how to attach the board that the speaker mounts to. Forgive me, i'm not a woodworker, although i'll probably solicit one if i decide to make the cab.
    outside of my flagrant disregard for correct thiele/small parameters, does anyone have any thoughts, advice, or links to good threads or sites to gimme a clue? :D
     
  2. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

    Sep 7, 2000
    Chicago
    Are you going to be covering the cabinet with something? If so, simple butt joints would be a heck of a lot easier than trying to cut miters...

    Baffles are often secured with glue blocks...a strip of 1x2 pine lining the inside edge of the cabinet. The glue blocks are glued and screwed to the box, the baffle is glued and screwed to the glue blocks.

    If you can cut the baffle perfectly, you could simple glue and screw the baffle directly into the box, running screws through the outside of the box into the edge of the baffle board.

    If you do that you will probably want to run a nice bead of caulk around the seam on the inside of the cabinet to make sure that there aren't any air leaks.

    Did you ask Eden for T-S parameters? You could always measure/calculate them yourself if you have the necessary equipment to do it.
     
  3. Passinwind

    Passinwind I Know Nothing Supporting Member

    Most bass cabs I've worked on don't use 45 degree cuts or fancy joints at all, but you certainly could do that if you're into it. Bracing is often done along the inside of each joint, with something ranging from 1/2 square stock up to a 1 by 2, depending on panel sizes. I typically use 1 1/16 inch square section hemlock in my homebrew cabs. You can glue and screw from the inside, making a nice strong butt joint, with the cleat sealing off any leaks. The speaker baffle then attaches onto the front cleats, which are recessed into the cabinet walls to an appropriate depth. With this scheme, you never have to screw anything into a plywood panel along the weak (end) axis. It's also forgiving of imprecise panel cuts.

    Polyester batt from a fabric place will work, although glass or other synthetics are arguably a little better acoustically. See the Parts Express site for alternatives for dampening materials. They also have adjustable ports that could be handy in tuning your particular driver. Rear ports are very forgiving for experimentation, since you can just cut a new back panel any time, asssuming you use a screwed-in one. You could get a 1/4 or half sheet of particle board and try a few port configurations before you settle on one for your plywood back panel.

    I can send you an old EV 15 cab blueprint, which shows the cleating arrangement I'm referring to, if that'd help.

    Here's what one of my cabs looks like:

    [​IMG]

    This one has an EV SP15 driver, with a wizzer cone in it. I fudged the dimensions a little too, to make my rack gear fit on top better.
     
  4. IvanMike

    IvanMike Player Characters fear me... Staff Member Supporting Member

    Nov 10, 2002
    Middletown CT, USA
    nice cab pass.............
    i'm not going to cover it so i'm trying to avild screwing from the outside for looks. I actually have a woodworker willing to build it for me so i think i'm ok skill wise. Thanks for the input so far. Any other suggestions are welcome.
     
  5. Passinwind

    Passinwind I Know Nothing Supporting Member

    I just have my local wood supplier cut the panels for me at time of purchase, it costs like 5 bucks or less. Next time, I'm going to buy a new finish blade and donate it to the shop, so they don't have to use a coarse rip blade. I lucked out on the 1-15 cabs, and they did a great job for me. I tipped the guy out afterwards. If you do it right, it doesn't take that many cuts, and the important ones are all done without having to change settings on the saw, so everything fits together nicely. I cut each cleat to size, as I screwed everything together. I used water-based Minwax urethane for the finish (easier to clean up, less fumes), and that cab is maybe 7 years old, and still looks decent.
     
  6. IvanMike

    IvanMike Player Characters fear me... Staff Member Supporting Member

    Nov 10, 2002
    Middletown CT, USA
    pass.........
    where didja get the grille?
     
  7. Passinwind

    Passinwind I Know Nothing Supporting Member

    Can't remember; could've been MCM Electronics, or maybe my local car stereo joint. Parts Express (www.partexpress.com) has 'em too.
     
  8. Petebass

    Petebass

    Dec 22, 2002
    QLD Australia
    Is that the speaker they use in the 2x10xlt? If so, I can help via a little bit of reverse engineering.

    My 2x10 has a 136 litre cab (4.8 cu ft), so I guess the ideal cab size for your 1x10 is about 68 litres (2.4 cu.ft). Based on the dimensions you gave, your Bag end cab is about 34 litres (1.2cu.ft).

    Tuning - mine is tuned to 38Hz. If i understand your description correctly, your bag end cab is tuned to 54Hz.

    If I were you, I'd ditch the bag end cab idea and get one made based on this info.
     
  9. IvanMike

    IvanMike Player Characters fear me... Staff Member Supporting Member

    Nov 10, 2002
    Middletown CT, USA
    the speaker in question is the one used in the 410T and 210T
     
  10. Petebass

    Petebass

    Dec 22, 2002
    QLD Australia
    ahhh.....scrap my porevious post. Does anyone here have a 210T?
     
  11. IvanMike

    IvanMike Player Characters fear me... Staff Member Supporting Member

    Nov 10, 2002
    Middletown CT, USA
    based on the exterior dimensions of the eden 410t (my favorite eden cabinet) 1/4 of the interior area is darned close to that of the bag end 110 cab. so i think i'm okie dokie.

    410t = 23"23"x18.5"