Cabinet wiring- HELP!!!!!

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by jimbass55, Nov 28, 2002.

  1. I agreed to take a look at a Peavey 410TX cab for a friend. He was having problems with it cutting in and out on him, and since I at least play bass and know what ohms are, I figured I couldn't do any damage to it.

    I figured that I would go by some wiring diagrams, and just totally rewire the speakers, and start from there. Upon inspection of the speakers, I noticed that the little wires on one of the speakers in particular were not connected.

    Problem #1- these wires appear to be ropelike cloth(I am assuming fiberoptic??) I tried sodering them, of course this didn't help. How do you connect them?

    Problem #2- I am not sure how the previous owner had this wired up to bypass this speaker because I didn't pay close attention when I was unconnecting.

    Question#1- Can the amp just be ran like a 2x10 to see if the problem also lies somewhere else.

    Help please!!!!
    #2 - can the speaker be fixed?
  2. ESP-LTD


    Sep 9, 2001
    I used to have a pair of 210-TX boxes and they didn't have any ropelike wire. The only wire like that I can think of is in the individual speakers connecting the voicecoil to the terminal leads and they are about an inch long and uninsulated.

    You should be able to wire them up lots of ways and each driver is 8 ohms as I recall. Look at: diagrams.htm

    for a refresher course.

    I guess I would want to try each speaker inidividually agains a music source to make sure it sounds OK and then wire them up as they should be.

    As for the wire, you should be able to get some decent wire at Radio Shack and spade terminals if you want to do that as well. I would say that if what you have doesn't look right, replace it with something you know is right.
  3. N*Joy


    Nov 30, 2002
    Birmingham, UK
    Problem no.1 - sounds like you just want to replace the speaker cables in the cab, cloth wrapped just doesn't sound right to me! You can then solder them or alternatively crimp them with those little clamps that then slide onto the speakers (like in your car stereo).

    Problem no.2 - who cares? You just need to know how you are going to wire it up. I take it you mean that one speaker is blown. If this is the case then just wire two up to the desired impedance, three speakers will get you a peculiar rating (although I suppose if you do the maths and his amps ok then do it until a replacement is found).

    Q. 1 - Yes.

    Q.2 - Speakers can sometimes be re-coned, but I really don't know much about this. If you had to buy a new one then I don't think it'd be too expensive, you just have to make sure that it's the same spec.
  4. The cloth type wires are on the speaker itself. They were not connected to the little plate on the speaker. I tried to wire up just the 2x10's and still nothing, but I am gonna try again cause I ran out of time the other day. I can't even figure out how to get this thing back to the way it was.
    Rusty G String likes this.
  5. ESP-LTD


    Sep 9, 2001
    Assuming you have a fried speaker, mine cost $70 from Peavey Parts to replace about 5 years back. I don't know that reconing would be cost-effective at that price.
  6. I tried just wiring one speaker and still no juice. It isn't anything like my amp head or my bass. I am thinking now I have a seperate problem. No matter how I wire any of the speakers, I get nothing, not even the horn which is wired in seperateley. Could there be a problem with the jackplate(or whatever it is called)? It only has one input if this helps.
  7. ESP-LTD


    Sep 9, 2001
    The simplest test environment, is to touch a 9v battery cross the terminals on a speaker which is disconnected from the rest of the system; the cone should move. This test probably doesn't work with the horn.

    If it doesn't move, it's electrically fried. Even if it does move, it may be mechanically damaged and sound nasty.

    I would suggest using some alligator clips from Radio Shack and bypassing the jackplate; the goal here is to eliminate variables and going straight to a disconnected speaker is the simplest case.

    Once you know that all the speakers are electrically sound, then you can try with an audio signal from your stereo or head and see if each one is fine mechanically.

    I have no idea how yours is supposed be wired up, however it's pretty common for Peavey to mount a crossover on the back of the jackplate (they will sell you a wiring diagram for $4). You don't have to use a crossover, but you will kill the horn if you don't. You can disconnect the horn and it will still sound "decent". I believe that has been discussed on "The Bottom Line" mailing list.

    Once you know they all are "good" then you can try wiring them up in different ways.
  8. If you find that it is the speaker that is broken, go to a Peavey authorized repair center and buy a factory replacment. It should cost between 85 and 100 bucks. If it more then one I would say just buy a new cab, you'll be putting in more parts and time then the cab is worth.

    Have fun!!:D
  9. I gave them the 9V test, and they all had a rapid type movement. Does this mean the are functional? If so what else could my problem be? Coming from the plate there is a yellow and a blue wire.(Yellow=+, Blue = Neg) I tried just hooking these 2 wires directly into 1 speaker. NOTHING! Is there any reason why this shouldn't work? Thanks for the previous responses.
  10. ESP-LTD


    Sep 9, 2001
    Well, if they all move with a 9v battery they are electrically "alive"- that's good news.

    If it's like a lot of Peavey cabinets, there is a circuit board on the jack plate that is a crossover to keep lows out of the horn (because they would fry it). I see 2 big possibilities:

    1. The crossover is fried and your signal stops there.

    2. The jack is broken in some way and the signal never gets in.

    (or perhaps both)

    You can test #2 pretty easily by wiring up the cabinet from scratch (see diagrams listed above) and using a different jack or by simply wiring up a jack and lifting the wires from the speakers and attaching them to the new jack.

    The existing wiring on the speakers could be crazy, and you might have to rewire them, but you can't tell until you test a few things.

    If the crossover is fried you can replace it from Peavey and keep the horn, or bypass the crossover and horn (but you would need to use a different jack plate because the crossover is often integral).

    You should have all you need to make it work now and diagnose the rest; you know the speakers all work fine (at least electrically), and you have a wiring diagram of how to wire them up without the crossover/horn.

    As with any free advice, you are on your own if you break something.
  11. Thanks, I will get on it tonight. It is already broke currently so I am not too worried. Besides this has been great experience. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks.
  12. I got it!!!!!!

    One of the input prongs on the circuit board looked a little loose so I put some soder on it, wired the cabs as instructed in the diagram and VIOLA!!!! It works. It sounds better than my high dollar cab(I couldn't get loud-it was late), but given its history I will probably help this guy trade it off anyway. Thanks for all your help.
  13. ThunderStik

    ThunderStik Guest

    Jun 25, 2001
    Claremore OK.
    Good job and thanks for the update. At least it didnt cost much.
  14. ESP-LTD


    Sep 9, 2001
    Glad it worked. I opened up a commercial cab once and discovered that a speaker was wired out-of-phase. Those kinds of surprises (the cheap ones) are the best.