1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to post, make friends, earn reward points at our store, remove most ads and more!  
     
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)

CAD/CAM bass project

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Hambone, Dec 25, 2000.


  1. To answer your question MTR, I only used a 5/8" roundover bit for the basic contours around the edges. The neck area was designed to fit the Warmoth neck quite tightly. The area around the neck projection was done with a 3/8" roundover and blended into the larger radius. Other than that, there wasn't any additional contouring.

    Your idea about a wood coverplate is intriguing. Unfortunately I have already routed the lip around the cavity to a depth of .100" and I can't make a matching veneer to fit that shallow an impression. Besides, I get some wonderful shielding from the aluminum.

    By the way, I got a neat surprise today - found out that there is a veritable forest of suitable exotic hardwoods available on ebay for projects such as this. I even found a single piece of mahogany 18"w x 34"l x 2" thick. Absolutely clear of imperfections. Damn, that would make one FINE single piece back for a bass. Price was right too. I'm going to be going back with my credit card in hand soon to see if I can get something nice to combine with the flame maple I have for the next project.

    Oh, and here's the link to my rather poor digital pics for anyone interested:

    http://images.honesty.com/imagedata/h/303/86/23038674.jpg
     
  2. I suggested the matching wood cover as a pet hate of mine is a plain cover spoiling the look of a bass with attractive figured wood (I'm a fan of pickguards on the front, though). of course it's a matter of opinion.

    Sei basses have the control cover cut out of the same piece of wood as the back, and backed with thin aluminium plate for screening- which presumably involves the use of a very thin saw blade, and would be very difficult to do on a solid body without laminates. the effect is of an "invisible" cover, and I'd go for rear-routed controls with a transparent finish if I could achieve this.:)
     
  3. I could get a generic veneer (maple) and do what you've said pretty easily. It would be impossible to match the figure but if I were to stain it a darker color with the grain still visible, it would look like it belonged.

    That touches on one of the only disappointments in the finishing of the bass. I couldn't (didn't) get the color as dark as I would have liked. I mixed up a custom shade and thought that I would use that until it wouldn't darken any more and then let the oil take it a step further. It didn't work out that way though. I did do a bunch of testing of shades and that put me onto the mix but that maple is HARD and it just doesn't take stain like say, pine.
     
  4. I suppose you can get away with using another piece with woods with small grain like flame maple, but not with woods like ash- I saw a Coté bass in Bass Player with an ash body, and an ash control cavity cover cut from another piece, and the different grain really clashed.

    BTW, I can't see a rout for truss rod access on your bass- did you leave it out to preserve the look of the bass?
     
  5. It's there!

    The Warmoth necks have a protruding truss rod but it's under the extended fingerboard. It's as hidden as it can be so you can't adjust without removing the neck anyway :(
     
  6. hmmm. after looking at pics of Sadowsky basses with suspiciously Warmoth-like extended fretboards, I copied the extended rout for the truss rod access beyond the overhang- I made the hole in the pickguard just big enough to fit a right-angled screwdriver in.
    It does look a bit ugly, but not as bad as the big gutter-like rout on Sadowsky's.