CAD/CAM bass project

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Hambone, Dec 25, 2000.

  1. To answer your question MTR, I only used a 5/8" roundover bit for the basic contours around the edges. The neck area was designed to fit the Warmoth neck quite tightly. The area around the neck projection was done with a 3/8" roundover and blended into the larger radius. Other than that, there wasn't any additional contouring.

    Your idea about a wood coverplate is intriguing. Unfortunately I have already routed the lip around the cavity to a depth of .100" and I can't make a matching veneer to fit that shallow an impression. Besides, I get some wonderful shielding from the aluminum.

    By the way, I got a neat surprise today - found out that there is a veritable forest of suitable exotic hardwoods available on ebay for projects such as this. I even found a single piece of mahogany 18"w x 34"l x 2" thick. Absolutely clear of imperfections. Damn, that would make one FINE single piece back for a bass. Price was right too. I'm going to be going back with my credit card in hand soon to see if I can get something nice to combine with the flame maple I have for the next project.

    Oh, and here's the link to my rather poor digital pics for anyone interested:
  2. I suggested the matching wood cover as a pet hate of mine is a plain cover spoiling the look of a bass with attractive figured wood (I'm a fan of pickguards on the front, though). of course it's a matter of opinion.

    Sei basses have the control cover cut out of the same piece of wood as the back, and backed with thin aluminium plate for screening- which presumably involves the use of a very thin saw blade, and would be very difficult to do on a solid body without laminates. the effect is of an "invisible" cover, and I'd go for rear-routed controls with a transparent finish if I could achieve this.:)
  3. I could get a generic veneer (maple) and do what you've said pretty easily. It would be impossible to match the figure but if I were to stain it a darker color with the grain still visible, it would look like it belonged.

    That touches on one of the only disappointments in the finishing of the bass. I couldn't (didn't) get the color as dark as I would have liked. I mixed up a custom shade and thought that I would use that until it wouldn't darken any more and then let the oil take it a step further. It didn't work out that way though. I did do a bunch of testing of shades and that put me onto the mix but that maple is HARD and it just doesn't take stain like say, pine.
  4. I suppose you can get away with using another piece with woods with small grain like flame maple, but not with woods like ash- I saw a Coté bass in Bass Player with an ash body, and an ash control cavity cover cut from another piece, and the different grain really clashed.

    BTW, I can't see a rout for truss rod access on your bass- did you leave it out to preserve the look of the bass?
  5. It's there!

    The Warmoth necks have a protruding truss rod but it's under the extended fingerboard. It's as hidden as it can be so you can't adjust without removing the neck anyway :(
  6. hmmm. after looking at pics of Sadowsky basses with suspiciously Warmoth-like extended fretboards, I copied the extended rout for the truss rod access beyond the overhang- I made the hole in the pickguard just big enough to fit a right-angled screwdriver in.
    It does look a bit ugly, but not as bad as the big gutter-like rout on Sadowsky's.