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Can I route out space under the bridge??

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Tommy Gunz, Sep 3, 2003.

  1. I'm seriously thinking of placing the gut of a Sansamp BassDrvie DI into the bass that I'm building, but right now spacing is a problem, unless I can route out a cavity that goes accross right underneth the bridge to fit in the PCB of the sansamp. So do you guys think that it is absolutely necessary to secure a bridge on solid wood foundation in order to produce the best sustain that the bridge can deliver? or it is ok to have hollow out space underneath it, since acoustic (or even semi-acoustic?) does that too.
  2. It'd depend on how big a cavity you're putting in. Does PCB = Printed Circuit Board? If it does, I know what you're talking about.

    I've seen battery compartments real close to bridges, and they work. Look at the lightwave system, it cuts out a large chunk underneath the bridge. I can't tell you for certain because I don't know sizes and that but personally I'd feel a fair bit safer with the screw biting into a solid bit of wood (it'd have me paranoid about ripping it out and you may not get good transfer of vibrational energy, making the tone weird, and losing some sustain). If have the cavity directly under the middle of the bridge with the screws still solid areas, I imagine it'd be fine, a little tonal variation but thats to be expected.

    If its too big to have the screws still in wood (and you don't want to have them in less wood) I'd just go another cavity in the top wing somewhere, then run the wires a little further.

    Josh D
  3. Thanks Josh, yeah, printed circuit board is what I meant to say in my first post. As for the size of the cavity, I'd like have it with 1" deepness, so that will leave me about just a bit under 3/4" of wood for the bridge screws to bite into. I think that should be OK....
  4. Now I know it is not the same thing, but electric guitars with trem's have large areas routed out under the bridge and pickups, and no one complains.

    I would suggest that you try and make sure that you can use fairly standard screws, as it makes life a bit easier. So if you can get the cavity down a bit so that 1" screws can hold the bridge in (taking into account the bridges thickness) it should be fine as these will be the same length as normal. Just a suggestion as on the last bass i made there were areas removed from under the bridge but i made sure there was a lot of material about where the screws were.

    Also consider the bridge you are using, the more fixings it has, the less load per fixing, and so the less depth per screw is required.
  5. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    - I would think that 3/4" of wood is more than sufficient to make the bridge act as "solid mounted" instead of "flexible panel mounted."

    -if you use wood screws, and they do strip out the wood, you will still be able to go back and use T-nuts from inside the cavity. Or, you could just drill through and use T-nuts from the outset. But it may not be necessary, as 3/4" of screw into hardwood is a force to be reckoned with. (Assuming the body is hardwood.)
  6. steve-o

    steve-o Guest

    Apr 17, 2002
    that sounds like it would be fine...and that is an intresing thought on the pcb of that in the bass...hmmm i would still think tha tit might be better on a belt on the strap or somehting tho.