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Check out my bass design and comment please.

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by yoshi, Oct 26, 2003.


  1. yoshi

    yoshi

    Jul 12, 2002
    England, London
    Hi all. This is my idea so far, the inner line is the design and the outline at the back end is a 'cut to line'.

    I've drew in bridge and pickup locations (not sureon pickups to use yet, will decide later on dependant on price etc).

    Any views on the design such as the a symmetricalness may cause balance issues etc?

    [​IMG]

    and a black and white one, lines are a bit more visabale.

    [​IMG]

    Thanks! :)
     
  2. yoshi

    yoshi

    Jul 12, 2002
    England, London
    b/w version.
     
  3. Keech

    Keech

    Oct 16, 2003
    All in your head
    Is that 2 pick-ups? Are those passive lipsticks or barts? What is the big square one up front? Or is that where the neck ends?

    It doesn't look bad balance wise. As long as you have a full arch on the bottom as a thigh rest. I played one where it wasn't a complete arch and the bass refused to balance which was very annoying. There must be a center of gravity calculation to pin-point that spot.

    Got a schematic for the controls?
     
  4. yoshi

    yoshi

    Jul 12, 2002
    England, London
    Hi, thanks for the input.

    All hardware is undecided as such, I'll probaly decide as time goes by and depending on how good it turns out.

    Thanks for the comment about thigh balance. I'm pretty sure that it should balance so fingers crossed!
     
  5. wulf

    wulf

    Apr 11, 2002
    Oxford, UK
    I think the bridge looks a bit small compared to the body size. Measurements like that are pretty vital otherwise, despite what I presume is an effort to have a small lower horn and thus easy upper fret access, you may find the neck having to be set further down the body.

    Also, the assymetric design looks nice but I wonder how well it will stand up? My Sei (headless and with strap buttons on both sides of the cutaway for access to the bridge tuners) is stable without a stand, which is a real asset.

    Wulf
     
  6. The design works. The bottom half looks Warrior-ish. The upper horn looks Yamaha RSX-ish. If you agree with the Yamaha part, you might want to think about whether you want a design cue to an inexpensive bass.

    Make a prototype out of cheap wood first to see how it balances out and really looks and feels.

    Good luck!
     
  7. rickbass

    rickbass Supporting Member

    Too early to really comment because I don't see any representation of the neck. For example, here's one aspect I'm talking about;

    > one general principle with a double cutaway is that the upper horn should extend to the 12th fret to achieve decent balance.

    My guess is that once you take the neck into consideration, your upper horn will become slimmer and possibly, more elongated.

    Also, just a personal preference - if possible, I would center that darker area of the board more. This would allow the lighter-colored "wings" to look more balanced/symmetrical.
    Of course, your best figuring is right where it appears the bridge will go. So, IF the board was wide enough, it could be cool to shift the whole thing over and preserve that figure and have contrasting wings. But I imagine the board isn't that wide.

    At any rate, we'd appreciate seeing the finished instrument.
     
  8. yoshi

    yoshi

    Jul 12, 2002
    England, London
    Thanks for the input, especialy the horn reaching fret 12 tip!

    I'll take the neck off my old jazz copy later on and snap a few pics with it posing at a neck (although I intend to use a 24 fret neck I'll try and compensate for this).
     
  9. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    US-NY-NYC
    - definitely, be sure your bridge position is right, i.e. nut to 12th fret = 12th fret to "virtual" bridge saddle line. You don't want to have to throw this away after cutting because the bridge has to "walk the plank."

    - design looks cool! For my taste, I would have the upper horn a little thinner. Then again the lower horn is also kind of chubby, so it could work.

    - just wondering, especially with respect to dealing with those three little knots that are currenly appearing in an awkward position near the base of the neck - what does the other side of the board look like?
     
  10. wulf

    wulf

    Apr 11, 2002
    Oxford, UK
    Things like knots in the wood will have an impact on the aesthetics of the bass and, potentially, on the ease or difficulty of the woodworking (like if you try to rout a neat neck pocket and one of the knots pops out!).

    Wulf
     
  11. yoshi

    yoshi

    Jul 12, 2002
    England, London
    Hi again, heres two pics of the bass with a neck in place. The neck on the pics taken from my authentic 1961 fender jazz copy and so is 21 frets - I plan to get hold of a 24 fret neck (fretted or fretless). All hardware is also taken from that bass and is there solely for reference - if the bass turns out good I'll use decent parts taht I buy over time as cash flow permits :D

    Due to this fact, I've measured out the missing fretspace and positioned the neck accordingly in order to demonstrate where fret 12 will fall in relation to the upper horn. IT does look a bit past it, moreso on the pic than in person (due to cam angle, sorry). Saying that, though, the chaps at warwick have the thumbs upper horn coming in at fret 15 (neckdive!!).

    Pic 1 shows where fret 12 would be if on a 24 fret neck:
    [​IMG]
    --
    Pic 2 shows where the enck would start from the body:
    [​IMG]

    Thanks for any more feedback aswell as the current.
     
  12. yoshi

    yoshi

    Jul 12, 2002
    England, London
    ..forgot the attachment :oops:
     
  13. yoshi

    yoshi

    Jul 12, 2002
    England, London
    ..attachemnt 2

    (description 2 posts up)
     
  14. looks like 20 frets in the pics?
    (and a '61 Fender would have 20)
     
  15. tyson

    tyson

    Feb 9, 2000
    Dallas, TX
    hey, remember.... whether your neck has 20, 21, 22, 23, or 24 frets, the 12th fret will always fall in the middle of the nut and bridge, representing one octave (double the frequency) above the open string. given a standard 34" scale (from nut to bridge) that means your 12th fret will sit at 17" (give or take a few mm) from the neck and bridge regardless of how many frets your neck has... for necks with more frets, you have to compensate by reducing the length between the bridge and the neck mounting slot on your body.
    thus,
    more frets = shorter (length-wise) bass body

    maybe this is obvious to everyone.
     
  16. kboyd

    kboyd

    Jul 6, 2002
    Loranger
    nice lines!!!
     
  17. wulf

    wulf

    Apr 11, 2002
    Oxford, UK
    I'd still want to make the top horn a little longer - another inch or so could make quite a difference to the balance.

    Also, do you think you'll get enough upper fret access with the current size of the lower cutaway? You might have to take away a bit more wood there to make the upper frets more than merely decorative.

    Wulf
     
  18. Victor Wooten98

    Victor Wooten98 Guest

    Jul 31, 2003
    South of Heaven...
    ...UGH, Yuck, what an ugly design :spit:



    J/K :D Looks pretty good, But Personally I would make the top 'horn' longer and thinner, it would look very cutting edge/Streamline... But it looks pretty good now.

    Good Luck.