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Chips & maintenance of Elrick Gold...

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by xr600, Jun 30, 2012.


  1. xr600

    xr600

    Jan 27, 2005
    Denmark
    Hi all...

    Recently acquired an Elrick Gold NJS, and I am completely in love with it. However, the unfinished ash body seems quite prone to dings/scratches, and I already made a couple of small ones myself :/. Anyone have experience with sanding/refinishing unfinished bass bodies ?... Advice, pitfalls, difficulties ?.

    Also, I suppose the unfinished wood will need som regular maintenance. Any pointers in that regard ?.

    Otherwise... completely smashing bass !!...
     
  2. nightwulf

    nightwulf

    Feb 27, 2011
    Edmonds Wa
    It's easy...all you have to do is remove all the hardware, steam out any dings, then sand with 150 to 220 grit paper (do NOT use any kind of electric sander for this...that's just asking for trouble)...I HIGHLY suspect that your body is NOT unfinished...that would be all KINDS of stupid...it's FAR more likely to be oiled and/or waxed...Walnut oil will give you a nice "unfinished" look, but it takes about a month to polymerize. Just wipe a generous amount on with a soft cloth (i.e. slather it on, don't be shy) and then after five minutes or so, wipe it down...do that a couple times a day for about a week...the last couple days, a light buffing would be good between coats... After it's fully "dry", then give it a couple coats of a good furniture grade wax...(or good quality beeswax)...You'll have to repeat this process every year or so...walnut oil is not the most durable of finishes...(but it does look VERY nice) Something that's a bit simpler to do is a danish or tung oil finish...Unlike walnut oil, these finishes won't naturally polymerize, but these products contain dryers and hardeners, so instead of waiting a month or so for it to "dry", it'll be ready about 24 hrs after the last coat. These are applied much like walnut oil, but after the first couple coats, go a little lighter on the amount of oil you're putting on, and buff it out after it sits for five to ten minutes...If you want to wax after that, you can, but it's not necessary....Next on the list would be a "wipe on poly"...which will give you a tougher finish than the oils, but will end up looking much the same...if you're going to go with this option, I recommend starting with a very light coat of orange shellac before applying the poly...It won't color the wood much, but it will "pop" the grain quite a bit...(just buy a small can of shellac and some denatured alcohol (or, if you have it, everclear works a treat, and you can have a snort after all your hard work :) )
    Mix the shellac 50/50 with the alcohol to get a nice light finish which dries in a matter of minutes...after that's dry, just wipe the poly on with a soft, lint free cloth, and let dry for several hours...then hit it with steel wool to scuff it, and apply your next coat...4-6 coats should do nicely...It'll look like there's more of a finish on there than with the oils, but it won't be that thick nitro coat...and this one you WON'T have to redo every year or so...There's a handful of fairly easy (for those who aren't woodworkers) options for finishing your bass....just, whatever you do, do NOT leave the wood raw....bad juju...Good luck, and post pics when you're done:)
     
  3. cnltb

    cnltb

    May 28, 2005
    I'd just leave that stuff on.
    Doesn't do anything to the tone or playability, right?
     
  4. xr600

    xr600

    Jan 27, 2005
    Denmark
    Wow... Sounds like I'll have to take out of business for a few weeks. Not gonna happen anytime soon ;).

    -Thanks for the pointers. Duely noted :)

     
  5. xr600

    xr600

    Jan 27, 2005
    Denmark
    True... Don't mind that the instrument looks like it's been used. But the wood just seem so delicate, in some weird way. Also I found that it chips fairly easy (a zipper made a noticeable 'chunk' in it the other day) and there is definately a line between looking used and looking smashed ;)

     
  6. cnltb

    cnltb

    May 28, 2005
    I suppose...
    Elricks are not varnished at all?
    Not even oil?





    Got Pics? :)
     
  7. xr600

    xr600

    Jan 27, 2005
    Denmark
    Probably some oil stained thing... Now that you mention it. I'll see if I can post some tomorrow :)



     
  8. cnltb

    cnltb

    May 28, 2005
    Cool!
     
  9. Brad Johnson

    Brad Johnson Supporting Member

    Mar 8, 2000
    Gaithersburg, Md
    DR Strings
    Your bass is finished unless it's no longer stock. Rob used a finish called Briwax which is fairly labor intensive and looks like natural wood vs. an actual finish. I've owned several Elricks and they all held up extremely well, stayed clean and didn't ding easily. I gigged with all of them. Best bet, contact Rob and see if that's what he used on yours.


    What are you doing to ding them? Stop doing that.
    ;)
     
  10. Randyt

    Randyt RAAPT Custom Wood Productions

    Jul 21, 2010
    Barrie, Canada
    I have an Elrick EVO SC 6xer...love it..now Ive never encountered any dings but my spalted maple top had a soft spot in the wood.it created a little cavity..i ended up building up many layers of crazy glue and then sanded to a mirror finish....went down to 1000grit sand paper..i couldve dyed the glue if needed but it wasnt necessary..then used the Briwax .(couple coats)...u would have no idea that the spot was on the bass.

    Good luck
     

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