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color change without removing finish?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by BobaSeth, Nov 29, 2017.


  1. BobaSeth

    BobaSeth

    Apr 30, 2016
    Been looking at basses, seeing a lot of natural finishes, some flat, some gloss. While I admire light colored wood for other peoples basses, its not my thing. I don't want to cover the woodgrain. I definitely want something transparent
    Is there a product or method for adding some color without stripping the existing finish, a wipe on product preferably?
    I'd rather not spray if I can get away with it.
    or is my only option to strip the finish and dye the wood?
    Thanks everybody :]
     
  2. In my opinion, if you don't spray it over a clear coat, you won't have an even colour. I still prefer that way of applying the tint, as I'm not comfortable with dying directly the wood.
     
    TonyP- and BobaSeth like this.
  3. BobaSeth

    BobaSeth

    Apr 30, 2016
    so a tinted clear?
     
  4. A tinted clear, light enough so you can easily regulate the opaqueness. But again, it has to be sprayed on.
     
  5. BobaSeth

    BobaSeth

    Apr 30, 2016
    Thanks Joe. If I've got to I've got to :]
    I don't WANT to spray, but I'd rather spray than do it half-assed :]
     
  6. BobaSeth

    BobaSeth

    Apr 30, 2016
    by the way, here's the one I want to do. Love the grain, Would just like to add a bit of color to it.
    gB3OzrH.
     
  7. BobaSeth

    BobaSeth

    Apr 30, 2016
    Joe, any product suggestions?
    I've already got the spray equipment, just never used it for this type of thing. usually just bikes and cars. I have sprayed a few basses in the past, but they were just done with left over automotive paint.
     
  8. That looks like an ESP/LTD, so I would guess it's a PU finish. As you have a good base on which to begin, just use a 320 grit paper to sand it matte to begin. The good thing about tinting on top of a good base, is thet if you don't like the result, you can sand it back and redo it. If you do it directly on wood, it's impossible to undo it afterwards.
    Any automotive product should be ok, just make sure it's compatible bith the base you have. PU on PU, nitro on nitro etc.
     
    BobaSeth likes this.
  9. JACink

    JACink

    Mar 9, 2011
    Spain
    If it is anything like my Ltd B205SM, be careful with the light sanding and make sure it is light, as the veneer is very thin. There is a thread somewhere where someone sanded off the Spalted Maple top on a B205, it actually looked really cool, but the SM veneer was very thin.

    (Off topic: What is the neck profile and string spacing like on the LTD 6? I am interested in a 6 and love my LTD 5, but I haven't had chance to try the 6.)
     
    BobaSeth likes this.
  10. BobaSeth

    BobaSeth

    Apr 30, 2016
    Thank you for the heads up. That's exactly what I'm terrified of doing. May just have to try to live with the color.
    I dont have any other sixes to compare the neck to except for my friend's Carvin LB76 (my LB76 doesn't get here until next week). The neck profile has a very flat back,feels a lot like the carvin. The string spacing is a bit wider than the Carvin, not much. And the b206 has a 35 inch scale
     
    JACink likes this.
  11. BobaSeth

    BobaSeth

    Apr 30, 2016
    and a pic of my colorless carvin that will be here next week
    QbwO7t1. QbwO7t1.
     
    Spidey2112 and JACink like this.
  12. JACink

    JACink

    Mar 9, 2011
    Spain
    Here's the thread: Customizing my Spalted Maple bass top... , unfortunately some of the pics are missing now, but maybe @Sundogue could swing by and give you more details.

    And thanks for the info, the flat profile sounds just like I want it (I really liked the profile of the Cort A6 which also seems to be pretty flat on the back), but I am not sure I would opt for the 35" scale.
     
    BobaSeth likes this.
  13. Yes, the sanding should be really light, but my worry is not to sand through the veneer, but through the clear coat. If you sand through the clear coat you've already sanded too much.
     
  14. Scoops

    Scoops Why do we use base 10 when we only have 8 fingers Supporting Member Commercial User

    Oct 22, 2013
    Sugar Creek, Wisc
    I am me
    IMHO - the risk outweighs the gain. I'd leave it alone
     
  15. MPU

    MPU

    Sep 21, 2004
    Valkeala Finland
    You don't need to sand the clear coat, just scuff it with grey 3M scuffing pad, clean with degreaser and spray the tinted coats. Of course test the compatibility of old clear and tinted whatever you're spraying.
     
    joseplluissans likes this.
  16. I see minimal risk. Factory clear coats are usually thick AF...
     
    BobaSeth likes this.
  17. BobaSeth

    BobaSeth

    Apr 30, 2016
    any specific product recommendations?
     
  18. Scoops

    Scoops Why do we use base 10 when we only have 8 fingers Supporting Member Commercial User

    Oct 22, 2013
    Sugar Creek, Wisc
    I am me
    Ok, so we have the following
    1) Preping the surface, and possible sanding through the current paint to the wood and/or thru the veneer
    2) Actually painting the instrument so that it turns out (rattle cans work somewhat well given the right environment)
    3) Buffing out the instrumnet
    4) Getting the color right
    5) Individual doing this is inexpierenced

    In your opinion, this is minimal risk?
     
    DiabolusInMusic likes this.
  19. turbo2256b

    turbo2256b

    Jan 4, 2011
    BobaSeth likes this.
  20. BobaSeth

    BobaSeth

    Apr 30, 2016
    thank you for your concern, but let's specify on number 5.. Individual doing this is inexperienced applying TINTED clearcoats
     

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