So, I've got an old HagstromF400 BII from around 1966/67. Instant 60s sound both with fingers and muted picking. The neck is one of the best I've EVER tried on any bass/guitar. It's extremely thin so I like to think of it as a "guitarist-bass". The action can be set so low it almost plays itself and there's not even a hint of buzz or rattle anywhere on the neck. It has never required even the slightest adjustment in the 15-20 years I've owned it. And with the climate and seasonal changes where I live that's highly unusual. I believe it must be considered a medium scale bass (I did a rough measurement in centimenters and it should be around 32") and it sounds absolutely wonderful on all strings, perfectly balanced, no flabby E like on most shortscales, although a bit limited tone wise with only a couple of switches, no tone knob. In short: I absolutely LOVE it! The problem is intonation. It has a wooden bridge that is glued to a metal plate so no adjustments are possible. It's just a piece of wood witch notches for the strings really. As simple as it gets. The original bridge had serious intonation issues when I got it. Plus the bridge was rather worn so I had a local luthier make me a new one. He was a VERY competent guy, almost legendary in the local scene and also got some attention internationally for his guitars (retired now). The intonation was probably set as close as possible for whatever strings he put on it (they had black slik wrapping so I suspect they were the "old" Fender roundwounds from years back). The intonation got a lot better but not perfect. The angle of the bridge is now rather extreme in contrast to the stock bridge which was set completely straight across all strings. Plus the bridge he made is slightly taller/thinner than the stock bridge so it MUST be glued to avoid falling over when tightening the strings. I don't know why he made it this way, the stock bridge looks a lot better balanced. But like I said, he was very highly regarded so he must have had his reasons. The problems started when I decided to put flatwounds on it. Which I probably should have done from the start but back then I wasn't really into music where flats would be suitable. But last week I put my favourite flats on it, Pyramid Gold, and wow...I loved it before but this is on a whole different level. Even with it's rather limited tonal range I can see this being one of my main studio instruments now. Unfortunately the intonation is now WAY off, to the point of being almost useless without adjustments. I tried moving the wooden bridge but the grooves for the strings doesn't line up properly when it's angled where I need it to be. And I can tell that the intonation won't be anywhere near perfect even if I get a new wooden bridge made specifically for these strings. Ideally I needs separate adjustments for each string. So, I found a Bronco bridge on ebay. Cheap enough to give it a go. Only adjustments for 2+2 strings, not individual, but it seems to fit the string spacing more or less perfectly and will probably get me close enough. I have searched everywhere I can think of online and I can't find any other bridges that will fit. I will have to drill a couple of new holes, and the holes from the stock bridge will probably be visible but this doesn't bother me as it already looks a big ragged. But after ordering the bridge I got some second thoughts... That's the background, now for the questions: 1) Are there any other "off the shelf" bridges that can fit this instrument (think Bronco string spacing) AND give me adjustments for each individual string? Any problems to be aware of with the Bronco bridge in this scenario? and most importantly: 2) How much will a metal bridge change the sound (vs wooden) and HOW will it change the sound? Brighter I suppose? Will it make a lot of difference with flatwounds? Will I lose some of that "organic" thud that I love to much about it? The bridge is glued to a metal plate so it's not directly in contact with the body. I suspect this can make the change to a metal bridge less dramatic than it would be for a wooden bridge directly connected to the body? If a wooden bridge is the way to go I'm prepared to spend a little to make it right but the problem is that after the luthier I mentioned retired there are nobody in my local area that I trust. I've had a bad experience with one guy and it's not something I'd like to go through again. And although I don't mind drilling a few holes (it's not exactly in visually mint condition anyway) I think I would rather not do it if a metal bridge is likely to change the sound a lot. Any advice on this will be very much appreciated!!!