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Cort Steinberger Repair/Rebuild Questions

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by GKon, Jul 15, 2013.

  1. Jul 15, 2013 #1
    GKon

    GKon Supporting Member, Boom-Chicka-Boom

    Feb 17, 2013
    Albuquerque, NM
    Hi All,

    I have a Cort Steinberger that was given to me over 10 years ago and has sat in a corner since. There was a problem with the electronics and I never got around to putting any time into fixing it.
    Then, I forgot all about it.

    A few weeks ago, while cleaning out a storage room, I found it again and figured it was time to fix it. :hyper:

    Through the help of some fellow TB'ers I've sorted out the parts to repair the electronics. I haven't replaced them yet, but am hoping to in the next couple of weeks.

    In the meantime, I've looked over the body and have found many dings. I may or may not try and fill them and repaint the body (which will then include me in the Rattle Can Finish Club here on TB). Then again, I may leave it as is. If I decide to fill the dings I'll search the forums to see what info I can find in regards to how to/what to use.

    The biggest ding "issue" is with the bottom edge of the fretboard, just below frets 1, 2 and 3. It looks like a dog chewed on it or something. It doesn't effect playability at all, but I do wonder if there is any way to repair it if I wanted to.

    I've attached some pics for all to see.

    Thanks, in advance, for any help.

    Kon

    IMG_7578.jpg

    IMG_7575.jpg

    IMG_7573.jpg

    IMG_7579.jpg

    IMG_7581.jpg

    IMG_7580.jpg
     
  2. Jul 16, 2013 #2
    GKon

    GKon Supporting Member, Boom-Chicka-Boom

    Feb 17, 2013
    Albuquerque, NM
    Anyone? :)
     
  3. Jul 16, 2013 #3
    Grissle

    Grissle

    May 17, 2009
    For the fretboard I use small splinters of rosewood and course dust + super glue. Build it up then sand flat.
     
  4. Jul 16, 2013 #4
    202dy

    202dy Supporting Member

    Sep 26, 2006
    There is a potentially bigger problem than drop filling the finish. The crack in the finish at the headstock is on the joint between the fingerboard and the neck. This indicates that it may be separating. This needs to be investigated before any cosmetic work is started.

    As far as the drop fills go, many of these would be most easily addressed with lacquer burn-in sticks. Failing that, some paint matching and CA glue drop fills are the way to go. The curves are difficult to do. The guitar will have to be clamped in a vise or otherwise immobilized. Masking paper dams will go along way to getting the CA to stay where it is needed. Liberal use of accelerator will also be necessary. The fingerboard edge (white and clear) is a two part, multi-step task.

    Stripping and refinishing is a bigger job than all of the above. Do the drop fills after looking at the crack.
     
  5. Jul 16, 2013 #5
    GKon

    GKon Supporting Member, Boom-Chicka-Boom

    Feb 17, 2013
    Albuquerque, NM
    202dy,

    Very good eye, picking up on the crack at the headstock. I saw it the other day. I will investigate it by sanding it down a bit to see if it's simply a crack in the paint, or if it's the fretboard separating. If it is the fretboard separating, I'll let you (all) know then see what I can do to fix it.

    Thanks for all the information.
     
  6. Jul 16, 2013 #6
    202dy

    202dy Supporting Member

    Sep 26, 2006
    No! Don't sand anything. Why would you want to start a cosmetic repair before completing structural work?

    Remove the strings. Remove the headstock hardware. Take a look.
     
  7. Jul 17, 2013 #7
    GKon

    GKon Supporting Member, Boom-Chicka-Boom

    Feb 17, 2013
    Albuquerque, NM
    My thought of sanding was to get a good look as to what's going on.
    I was planning on removing the strings and headstock hardware first to take a look and then, if I didn't get a good picture, sand to have a better look.
     
  8. Jul 17, 2013 #8
    202dy

    202dy Supporting Member

    Sep 26, 2006
    It should be obvious when the hardware is removed. If it is not, thin probes should be employed. Some .002-.005" shim stock is ideal for this procedure.
     
  9. Jul 17, 2013 #9
    GKon

    GKon Supporting Member, Boom-Chicka-Boom

    Feb 17, 2013
    Albuquerque, NM
    Thanks.

    If it is the fretboard lifting, will I be able to glue it in place by inserting adhesive in the crack then clamping it down? Generally speaking, of course.
     
  10. Jul 17, 2013 #10
    202dy

    202dy Supporting Member

    Sep 26, 2006
    That is the protocol.

    Investigate first. Then post your findings. Someone will help you.
     
  11. Jul 17, 2013 #11
    GKon

    GKon Supporting Member, Boom-Chicka-Boom

    Feb 17, 2013
    Albuquerque, NM
    This is exactly why I enjoy being a member of TB so much.
     
  12. Jul 17, 2013 #12
    GKon

    GKon Supporting Member, Boom-Chicka-Boom

    Feb 17, 2013
    Albuquerque, NM
    I removed the headstock hardware.

    There is a small mount of separation of the fretboard from the neck. Not enough that it is lifting, but with some pressure it moves, ever so slightly.

    At the very top of the headstock I scraped away some soft wood/old glue and it has left a .016" gap. from there it tapers down to 0 within a distance of .25".
    All this is taking place at the 0 fret.

    It would seem that it shouldn't affect playability, but it may also get worse if not taken care of.

    So, does anyone want to offer any suggestions? I will also search through the repair forums to see if I can find any info there.
     
  13. Jul 17, 2013 #13
    202dy

    202dy Supporting Member

    Sep 26, 2006
    Quit removing material. Don't scrape, sand, or abrade until you know what you're removing.

    Fingerboard repair:

    1. Clamp fingerboard with properly radiused caul to neck one fret below crack.
    2. Place thin wedge in crack.
    3. Inject yellow glue (Titebond or similar) into crack.
    4. Clamp with properly radiused caul.
    5. Clean up glue squeeze out with damp rag.
    6. Allow to set for twenty four hours.
    7. Remove clamps and cauls.
    8. Reinstall hardware.

    If a syringe is not available, a palette knife can be employed to move the glue into the crack. Do not use anything that can break or tear to apply the glue. That means no paper products. It also means most plastics. If something gets stuck in the crack the joint will have to be opened and the offending part removed.

    Do not be surprised if the crack becomes bigger when shimming it open. That's o.k. You're going to glue it together anyway.

    Some fret work may be necessary after this procedure.

    N.B. This is a job for the seriously handy only. If you do not work with tools on a regular (at least weekly!) basis seek professional help.
     
  14. Jul 17, 2013 #14
    GKon

    GKon Supporting Member, Boom-Chicka-Boom

    Feb 17, 2013
    Albuquerque, NM
    Thanks for the information and help 202dy. I truly appreciate it.

    The material I scraped away was powdery. Most of it was removed by just blowing on it. I just gave it a little help with a dental pick :)

    I've been working with tools for many years and for various things, so I believe I can handle it.

    I'll let you know how it turns out.

    My best,

    Kon
     
  15. Jul 17, 2013 #15
    202dy

    202dy Supporting Member

    Sep 26, 2006
    Powder? Buffing compound?

    Good luck.

    Cosmetics to follow.