1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
     
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)

Could more oils be mixed(on different coatings)??

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by alexlotta, Apr 16, 2009.


  1. alexlotta

    alexlotta

    Jul 1, 2005
    Triest,italy
    Hi guys .After some years of owning ,i felt my Boutique bass needed a
    refresh on the figured Top.
    _______--------------______________________________________
    Woods on my bass are=
    -Top :bubinga-/figured --root) ,
    -Body :mahogany ,
    -Neck (through):wengè -padouk -wengè-padouk-wengè
    -Fretboard:black ebony
    ..on Mine, Bubinga-Mahogany-and Padouk have a "Reddish" charachter.

    Some old pics are here (i swapped pickups):
    http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/alexlotta/
    __________--------------------______________________________

    So,
    After 2 years i've noticed that the figured top losed his
    "3-D" effect ,though i did add wax from time to time.

    A Luthier here ,told me i had to remove old wax by "white spirit" , which i did
    (...trying also with a toothbrush on the open pores for the little dust there).

    Then ,told me To add RED Oil ,on many coatings during days.

    I'm doing it (upper part of the top for now,to see the differencies) ,and it darked a bit the wood,though in a pleasant and Very NATURAL way.
    The "dark roots"of the top are still drinking ,as i see them less "lighty" then the rest.

    *******Here I ask:

    !Applying wax again at the end is a possibility,
    But i'm starting not fancying so much the Wax_Feel i get ,
    dunno what to say , i feel it plays even better!.
    And I dislike wax the wax-feeling on the neck,though i did a delicate coating.

    Just i'm wondering if i could add a different oil instead ,or
    is better to don't mix them.
    A kind of oil that leaves some protection the red oil could not offer as i feel is just giving "food to the wood",more than protecting from external elements.

    In my house i have LEmon Oil and Another one oil called in italian "olio paglierino"( a vegetable Oil ) ,used also on instruments and on antique-furnitures,

    I can't go on Nitro as i'm not able to do myself.
    Alternatively , just a light coating of wax does it as final touch?

    ***And finally ,i wonder If in general is advisable to use coating of different oils (maybe to NOT to dark too much the woods ,for example ,but just a bit ,with different coatings)***.

    ..Any Tip Apreciated ;) ,
    Sorry for any typo ^^
     
  2. alexlotta

    alexlotta

    Jul 1, 2005
    Triest,italy
    also ho manydays i'm suppose to do oil coatings? i'm doing 5 days ,and still did'nt see the "surplus oil" getting back from wood
    ( i was told to add oil ,til i'll see the wood not absorbing it anymore)
     
  3. Gopher Bob

    Gopher Bob

    Nov 24, 2001
    Florida
    I would like some oil tips myself. The only oil I'm familiar with is tung oil. I've used about 3 or 4 or 5 coats on a Warmoth bass I put together a few years back.

    I would prefer the opposite as you... maybe a bit more dark than what I got with formby's tung oil. I think I'm going to give it a stain then some type of sealant.

    I've read many posts online over the years regarding this but for some reason now that I need to know what is best method it can be difficult. I've never used wax as a finish. Do you mean you use wax as to keep the bass looking nice over the years? I believe I have done the same.
     
  4. alexlotta

    alexlotta

    Jul 1, 2005
    Triest,italy
    yep wax is not exactly a "finish".
    I meant oil ,and final coatings with wax,to "Even" a bit the open pores.
    And also my concern/question was if is possible to use more than 1 oil;

    ...For example :
    red oil<--> then (say) lemon oil <-->then wax ,to let it a bit more shiny.


    On those 2 years the "warwick-like-wood figuration" on mine went less "3-d "and not so shiny.
    Now after the red oil coatings i got a bit darker,but not shiny (when oil dries) .

    Anyway i think we are not gonna receive tips,
    perhaps i did a stupid or many-more times answered question.Sorry if.
    i did try with search,but i did'nt find what i was looking for.
     
  5. 62bass

    62bass

    Apr 3, 2005
    It's a bit hard to understand what exactly you're asking, because of the different terms used in your country. I've never heard of "red oil".

    There are lots of threads about doing oil finishes on this forum and the luthiers forum. If you can't find exactly what you want to know, send me a PM and I'll try to help.

    Don't put olive oil or any cooking oils on your bass. Put it on pasta or salads. Not on wood.
     
  6. alexlotta

    alexlotta

    Jul 1, 2005
    Triest,italy
    Thanks for Your Answer,much apreciated ,really.

    *Of course i would'nt put Olive oil on My 3400$ bass just because , As an Italian ,i use it on pasta ,never thought about.*

    My question was more if i can can do -More coatings with different Oils -On the SAME Surface-(maybe i wrote unclearly),
    if is possible /advisable,and If yes
    nd which ones would "marry better " in the correct order, in that case.

    ..And also how many (less as possible) coatings of wax i can apply after the Oils, if i want to get "shinier" effect

    ********-------------------------------------*******
    REALLY Sorry about Red oil.
    My mistake asking about:

    "Red oil" is a furniture Oil , For red and Darker woods.
    I thought existed there in Usa also,
    It's the First time i meet a so big difference in Bass-related-stuff,so i could'nt realise.

    --In fact ,scrolling google i found mentioned just in Guitar forums ,On CArvin BAss kit assembly site [URL="www.carvinservice.com/crg/manuals/bass_kit_instructions.pdf[/URL]and then that very thread-----

    Well Guess i 'll stop "Blabbering" about.
    *****************_______************************


    Now I already put coatings Of that one so If i can apply something else After i would apreciate a tip.
    But if Not ,it's ok i understand clearly it's hard to figure out
    with so different names/products.

    Thank you again and Regards
    (guess i will be back on more common-shared stuff^^ )

    ,Alex
     
  7. 62bass

    62bass

    Apr 3, 2005
    Okay. The red oil sounds like it's just a furniture polish type oil. You use that to clean and shine your bass. It's okay for that.

    The Carvin site tells how to apply Minwx tung oil, which is an actual finish that has to be allowed to harden, before you put anything like wax or polish on top.

    If you want to put a new coat of a hardening oil on your bass, you could do it, but you'd have to completely remove all hardware, clean it up, then apply the oil. Tung oil probablywould be best.

    If you just want to make the surface that's on your bass look better, deeper and shinier, clean it with the red oil until it looks good. Then apply one coat of a furniture paste wax with a cotton cloth, then buff it shiny with a clean cotton cloth. It'll look darker and deeper and a lot better. You shouldn't need more than one coat of wax. Renew it once or twice a year.
     
  8. alexlotta

    alexlotta

    Jul 1, 2005
    Triest,italy
    ThaNks for You still bothering about (the Only One ,perhaps) .
    In fact i was told (by a luthier) that Red Oil was not just "polish" furniture , so better i check further here to solve
    --I did'nt check Carvin-Tung stuff ,just looked for info on "red" through english sites.--

    From Your answer also i get that using more than one oil-type is not used ,except in the case one is "polish" and the other is "hardening" or "finish" type.

    ..Regards ,
    i owe You one,
    Alex
     
  9. 62bass

    62bass

    Apr 3, 2005
    Right. I prefer to stick to one finish throughout, particularly when using an oil finish. Pick a good tung oil type finish and go with it. Use a bit of wax on top for a bit more luster. Clean occasionally with one of the mineral oil polishes. Find one that you know doesn't have any silicone in it. Silicone makes future refinishing a real problem. Never use any of those spray on waxes like Pledge. They are loaded with silicone.

    There are other hardening oil finishes that don't have tung oil but use linseed (flax) oil instead, usually mixed with some alkyd resin. They can look nice too. Birchwood Casey True Oil is one. Minwax Antique Finish is another. I've used the Minwax a number of times. It doesn't build up at all on the surface but really accentuates the grain and gives a nice look and feel. I used some a while back on a maple table top and it looks fantastic. I used about 6 or more coats. The linseed oil based finishes tend to darken with age more than tung oil.

    Check out what red oil actually is. I'd like to know. I've never heard of it here. From the name it sounds like a mineral oil with a red dye added, which would make it one of the non-hardening cleaner/polishes, but I really don't know. If you could look at the directions for use on the can or bottle, it'll be easy enough to figure out what it is.

    Anyhow, good luck with finding something you want to use. Let us know how it goes. Ask again if you want to know anything more.
     
  10. 202dy

    202dy Supporting Member

    Sep 26, 2006
    Here are a couple of links for "olio paglierino".

    Straw oil

    Olio Paglierino

    Straw Oil 2

    Olio Paglierino 2


    From the links it appears that red oil is a tinted form of olio paglierino, much like Minwax Antique is a tinted form of Minwax Oil. The term "vegetable" seems to be used to describe the fact that oil is plant based much like tung oil or linseed oil. It appears to be a furniture finish. There are links on the sites to technical data. A cursory glance does not reveal silicone.

    All of that said, as 62bass stated, mixing oils is probably not a good idea.
     
  11. Jazzdogg

    Jazzdogg Less barking, more wagging!

    Jul 29, 2006
    San Diego, CA
    PM sent
     
  12. 62bass

    62bass

    Apr 3, 2005
    Thanks for that which clears things up. No, a finish wouldn't contain silicone. Just a lot of the liquid and spray polish/cleaners that have it.
    Looks like the "red oil" is pretty straight ahead stuff. Probably look really good on the right woods.
     
  13. 62bass

    62bass

    Apr 3, 2005
    I haven't received it yet. I'll check again after dinner and if not I'll let you know.
     
  14. bigfatbass

    bigfatbass Banned

    Jun 30, 2003
    Upstate NY
    Endorsing Artist: Karl Hoyt Basses
    The best thing I've ever found to protect, and bring out the grain is bore oil. I just did the neck of my upright with it, and check out what the little test patch I did on the bridge looked like. It will not darken, but it will really make a grain pop, and it is by far the best type of oil to put on any unsealed instrument wood, especial for harder woods.

    Check out this thread, my input with pics is at the bottom.

    http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=525464&highlight=


    And here's where I buy my bore oil:

    http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm#

    I have no connection to them other than an undying mancrush on their fine product.

    If it can preserve an ebony clarinet full of spit for 150 years, think what it can do to a rosewood board or flame maple top?
     
  15. alexlotta

    alexlotta

    Jul 1, 2005
    Triest,italy
    First thanks, so "Straw Oil" looks the translation for Olio paglierino ,i did'nt find how to translate.
    Secondly,
    "REd OIL " Is NOT "Red Straw Oil".
    They Exists BOTH ,so it's RED OIL ,and also RED STRAW OIL.

    When You Go in a Furniture store you find Both.
    I have paglierino/straw oil (transparent) and "straight" Red oil on my house.
    ___________
    i'm taking my time scrolling the links on the pm and the threads,
    man there are tons of "different views" of what it's better for certain woods,
    it looks still like as an "uncertain science" ;) .
    Glad now i have something more to consider.
    ___


    I did scroll also The Interesting "fret doctor +bore Oil":
    I thought it was easy to find here without to go international shipping/custom /blah blah. ..Unfortunely
    In Europe ,they decide To Put A Black mask on the FAce,
    And to sell the stuff like That:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Fret-Doctor-ULTIMATE-Guitar-Fretboard-Conditioner-LARGE_W0QQitemZ150341430081QQihZ005QQcategoryZ42455QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247 That's far above i consider the limit of Resonable,for an oil,honestly.
     
  16. 202dy

    202dy Supporting Member

    Sep 26, 2006
    What is the brand name of "red oil" you have? Could you post a picture of the label or a link to a site where they sell it?
     
  17. alexlotta

    alexlotta

    Jul 1, 2005
    Triest,italy
    Not Online ,a furniture shop(his brand). But there are everywhere ,also online,very common here.
    Since i got already an idea about ,i'm just investigating the different tips I got here by scrolling webpages.
     

Share This Page