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Covering a cabinet help !!

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by lewibassist, Feb 8, 2005.


  1. Hiya can anyone one help me on how to cover a cabinet. I have plenty of material. What should i use to stick the material down ? . What would be the best method to covering one. I am most confused about how to get the corners without creasing the material. Hope someone can help.


    Lewis
     
  2. Steve

    Steve

    Aug 10, 2001
    Typically.....you use contact cement. CAREFULLY.

    You do the corners like well...laying carpet if you've ever done that. Cut straight at the corner, fold the edges over then cut again on a diagonal. You should end up with a two triangular scraps and an two edges that fit together perfectly.

    The real trick is to do the main portion, leaving the contact cement away from the edges then go back to do all the seam cutting. Overlapping, cutting through both layers, pulling out the scrap THEN gluing and matching the finished edges.
     
  3. CrackBass

    CrackBass

    Aug 10, 2004
    huntsville,AL
    or you could go to autozone and get some bed liner paint. it's less than 50 bucks a gallon. paint the cab with that and you're set. it's not as good as line x or rhino liner or such but it's pretty good for a home job. it will probably look better than a newbie carpet job. roll it on with the special roller knaps they sell just for the stuff. that should give you an even texture. or they sell it in spray cans but it's more expensive. (don't get the cheap undercoating spray cause it never dries) optimally if you have a cheap spray rig you can buy it by the gallon (or quart) and spray it. you may want a couple of coats. depending on the carpet you're using the material cost may be about the same with either method. (especially if you only need a quart.. about 15 bucks or so) good luck
     
  4. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

    Sep 7, 2000
    Chicago
    If I covering a cabinet with carpet, I usually use 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. For vinyl, I'll use contact cement.

    The secret to hiding your seams is to pain a line on the cabinet that's the same color as your covering material. That way, if you have a small gap at the seam, the paint will show from underneath and from a meter away you won't see the gap.

    Use a very sharp razor knife to make the cuts and take your time.

    If you're using corner guards on your cabinet, you know need to be as neat.

    I cover the four sides of the box first starting on either the middle of the bottom or toward one side depending on whether the cabinet will always rest on on side or it might be oriented two different ways.

    To cover the front edges of the cabinet, I'll hold the excess straight away from the cabinet and make a straight cut from the center of the corner outward. Then, I'll lay the material over the edge of the cabinet and make a short diagonal cut between the center of the outside edge of the corner to the center of the inside edge of the corner. Once the diagonal is cut, I make another straight cut along the inside edge of the cabinet so that the material can fold back toward the speaker baffle.

    Or, if it's easier, once I lay the material over the front edge of the cabinet, I'll cut along the inside edge of the cabinet moving toward the corner until I come to the adjacent top/side, etc. Then the diagonal is easy because you're at the ending point and you can easily see the starting point.

    Hopefully this makes some sense...if not, please ask questions.

    Next time I do this, I'm going to take some step by step pictures...

    I'm including a couple pictures of the front and back corners of a cabinet that I recovered. I enlarged the one of the front to show the diagonal cut better...hopefully you can see it.
     
  5. If using chrome metal corners, you have to flatten the wood at the corners after radiusing, and also, countersink where the holes are (if the corners are stamped with countersunk pressed holes.) If not, the corners sometimes won't set flush.

    And yeah, using corners means you can fudge them a little.

    For contact cement, I use Wilsonart 600 because it's really strong. But the fumes...whoooo!
     
  6. Steve

    Steve

    Aug 10, 2001
    There's the real answer. I keep waiting for the carpet on my Acmes to rot off so I can have them sprayed and say goodbye to that nasty, stinking, dog-hair-catching carpet.
     
  7. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

    Sep 7, 2000
    Chicago
    Why wait...that carpet would peel off quite easily. I've been told that many commercial cabinet builders use self adhesive carpet (probably to keep OSHA off their backs) that is very easy to remove.