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Cracked Neck Heel!

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Flatwound, Feb 17, 2001.


  1. Flatwound

    Flatwound Supporting Member

    Sep 9, 2000
    San Diego
    My "backup" bass is an older ('90) Washburn 24-fret with a P pickup. I noticed it was sounding kind of thin, so I took it apart to see if anything was loose or needed adjustment. Imagine my surprise to find a crack extending from the neck heel about three inches up the back of the neck. :eek: I've glued this now, and it's still clamped. I used some stuff like Elmer's, but heavier duty. Should this work? My next idea, if the crack should re-appear, is to use a ring-shank nail, with both the point and head cut off, driven into a slightly smaller pilot hole, across the neck. Probably with some epoxy. I don't really want to put any money into this bass, as it's not worth much. It sounded OK until recently, though, so I don't mind trying to fix it.
     
  2. Flatwound, IMO you did yourself in by gluing first with the glue mentioned. If it worked, everything is OK but unless the crack was very wide, I doubt you got enough glue deep in the separation. When the crack is thin, it is best to use an almost water-thin adhesive like CA to flow down into the crack before clamping. No doubt the glue you got in the crack will hold but I don't know how much structure it was able to mend.

    I know what you are thinking with the ring-shank nail idea - that it won't be able to seperate further with the nail doing the holding. But it would be better to drill and fit a hardwood dowel across the crack than to do it with a nail. My thinking is that with a good fitting dowel and a glue like Titebond, your repair is much more like the original material - all wood - and will likely sound better. The dowel with glue will be extremely strong and if you needed to tap into the area for mounting, it wouldn't pose a problem.
     
  3. Flatwound

    Flatwound Supporting Member

    Sep 9, 2000
    San Diego
    Turns out you were right, Ham. The crack split open as soon as I ran the screw in. I thought about a dowel, but this is a pretty thin neck, and I don't want to make the hole very big. I may try using a fine thread drywall screw and grinding the head off. This with an appropriately sized pilot hole, of course.
     
  4. Flatwound

    Flatwound Supporting Member

    Sep 9, 2000
    San Diego
    OK, just in case anyone cares :D , I did the dowel thing. I used a 1/8" dowel on either side of the screw hole, across the crack, with Titebond glue, clamps, etc. It looks like it worked, and I put the bass back together. Sounds good so far.