Critique my schematic...

It's a little hard for me to see because it's not really a schematic (which shows functionality) but more a pictoral diagram of the finished product.

But I think I see a problem in the Series/Parallel switch. The hot from the bridge PUP is connected to its pots, but the only output from that part of the circuit is grounded. The red from the bridge tone pot goes to the S/P switch, and that same lug is connected to ground. And because it's not a real schematic I can't see the swith logic to tell what's going on there. But it looks close, I just don't see why the volume and tone control output is being grounded.

jte

 

The killswitch is improperly wired.
Switch the Jack + with the center terminal.

The neck volume and tone pots are wired backwards.

 

As for the hot leads... I also like attaching them to the wiper terminal (center). I see what you're doing with the kill switch in that you want to ground it instead of just cutting the circuit so take line6man's advice... and I'd have to agree that the ser/par switch appears a little wonky.

1. The red is sent to ground no matter what s/p switch position yet it's the bridge pup hot lead.
2. In the "up" position the s/p switch causes a looped circuit with a tap rather than a terminus.
3. IN the "down" position the s/p switch appears to disconnect the hot leads from both pickups and only leave the ground (-) leads in the "circuit"

It could be that I've already had too much wine after a mentally exhausting day of writing code but this is my professional opinion with a +2 buzz.

 

Yes.

What i mean is that the outer terminals should be switched around on the neck pickups volume and tone pots.
The way you have them, the pot will work backwards and the taper will be wrong.

 

There are two types of series/paralle switches, one for the coils of a humbucker, and one for wiring two seperate pickups series/parallel.

This is an old drawing, so it's crappy, but here is the correct series/parallel wiring for this application:

 

Avoid star ground. It's so totally unnecessary that the mess it will cause (and the huge solder joint necessary) will be in no way worth it. You can't have ground loops in a passive bass.

 

You have to do the same number of ground connections more or less no matter what, and star grounds make the cavity sloppy (and are a common point of ground problems when people don't solder them perfectly because it's not the most ideal mechanical solution).

The ground reference is the same everywhere, so you don't need to pull it all from the exact same point.

 

If you want to do both a blend pot and a series/parallel switch, you are going to want to use a 3PDT switch to bypass the blend pot when you're in series mode, otherwise you will get a volume drop unless you have the blend set fully to the neck position.

Here is a diagram a drew a while back for this type of setup:


I can redraw it for the two tones and the capacitor switches if you want.

 

FWIW, the ground from the blend pot should be on the terminal directly above where you have it.

 

Yes - the blend pot doesn't consolidate the signals - it is two independent volume controls also, with the outputs tied together.