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Cutting strings before restringing

Discussion in 'Strings [BG]' started by King Weapon, Jul 14, 2012.


  1. King Weapon

    King Weapon

    Sep 20, 2005
    Brooklyn, NY
    Hey all. Just a quick restringing question.
    When restringing, I've always cut each string four inches passed the nut before inserting it. A friend just told me this is only needed for the E string, while the others need to wrap all the way around the nut to achieve the proper tension. Is this true? What do you all do? Thanks! :bassist:

    By the way, I have a Fender Precision.
     
  2. JTE

    JTE Supporting Member

    Mar 12, 2008
    Central Illinois, USA
    On Fenders I put a 90 degree bend in the string two tuning machines past the one I'm stringing, and cut the string about 1/4" past that bend. That gives enough downward pressure on the nut for all four strings. It's really only a potential issue on the A string due to the string tree for the D and G strings.

    John
     
  3. billgwx

    billgwx

    Apr 10, 2009
    Centereach NY
    I always thought the general rule of thumb was to get 3 or so wraps around tuning posts, to maximize string break angle over the nut while minimizing slippage and/or overlaps. I pretty much ignore that and just go for a similar break angle on all strings. On my older '92 MIJ J-bass that has relatively wide/tall tuning posts, that means the only string I have to cut when using D'Addario Chromes or XL rounds is the low E. On my '98 MIA P-bass the tuning posts are shorter, so I have to do more cutting on all strings. YMMV as they say.
     
  4. bassman blue

    bassman blue

    Aug 22, 2002
    Bellingham
    stringing is about as personal as the types of strings people use... :D i've been using the same type of strings for so long that i just know that i can wind the strings onto my basses without having to cut them at all. i just bend over the end of the string and the rest gets wound onto the post, working downwards with the last wrap closest to the headstock...
     
  5. Thomas Kievit

    Thomas Kievit Guest

    May 19, 2012
    If you would like to get a good sound from your strings, only wrap it up twice on each tuning peg. It's very easy to do. Here's my method : If you have a new set of strings, replace them one at a time so the tension will stay the same on the neck. If you replace a string, put the end ball on the bridge / stringholder, and pull the string all the way tight towards the headstock (like it's tuned). Then, use a ruler and measure 4 inches from the ''heart'' of the tuning peg and then cut it off. Put the string in the tuning peg, tune the string and it should be wrapped up twice :)
     
  6. I do it exactly the same way...I don't think your friend leaves enough string. You need multiple wraps to lock the top wind in place and wind down the post.
     
  7. I cut mine 3" past each tuning post. Different basses come in 2x2 - 2x3 - 1x4 - 1x5 configurations so I do it based on that so I have equal wraps on all. I would cut them a little longer if I had larger diameter posts, but my Ibby SR posts are small.
     
  8. I have an Ibanez Jet King, so I don't know how different a Fender would be, but on mine I just measure out to the tuning peg after the string I'm measuring for. So if I'm measuring the E I measure out to the A string and cut there. But since it's got two pegs on each side of the headstock the A and D strings are furthest out. So when I'm doing those strings I measure out to either the A or D tuning peg, grab where the peg is along the string, then bring where I'm holding back to either the E or G, then measure out to the A or D peg again and cut there. That's just how I do it on mine, but I would think the same principles apply for a Fender: just measure to the tuning peg of the string after the string you're measuring for

    Hopefully that made sense
     
  9. Definitely

    Definitely Banned

    I always cut the string approximately 2 tuning posts past the one I'm stringing, when you get to D and G just eyeball it, measure it, whatever floats your boat. It's the way I was taught by my bass teacher and it's the way I will continue to do it.
     
  10. Fender has it right. Cut the E (and B if you have one) 3" past the tuning post, and the rest 3 1/2" past the tuning post. Of course this is with 1/2" diameter posts. I then jam the cut end straight down into the hole drilled in the middle of the post and make a sharp bend, then wrap tightly with my fingers, taking care to keep each succeeding wrap tightly under the first. I also pull hard on the strings after they're tuned up to remove all slack around the post. I massage the strings over the nut and saddles. Then I frequently grab the bass by each string, lift it up in the air, and shake it.
     
  11. PlungerModerno

    PlungerModerno

    Apr 12, 2012
    Ireland
    It definitely depends on the tuners.
    I usually only clip the E . . . The other strings get about 4 - 5 winds, getting them nice and low on the tuner, especially the A, and at least 3 on the E - I have 5 on the E on the set of chromes I'm using ATM. all sits neatly without overlap and gives a nice break angle. ;)
     
  12. Yeah, depends on the tuners. I forgot how long I clipped for 3/8" posts. But I really hate slack. There was a time when I wouldn't wrap more than 2 1/2 turns, maybe 2 on the E. However I favor the Hipshot 3-string retainer, which keeps strings from buzzing in the nut slots (that's all I really want break angle for).
     
  13. PlungerModerno

    PlungerModerno

    Apr 12, 2012
    Ireland
    Me too. I try and tweak it based on my knowledge of the bass. It's easy to make them shorter, hard to make them long.
     
  14. JohnMCA72

    JohnMCA72

    Feb 4, 2009
    I extend enough past the peg to get about 2-1/2 to 3 wraps, precision by eyeball. It's going to vary a bit depending on gauge of the string, with the heavier strings needing a little more length to get the same number of wraps. Overall length also depends on the location of the peg on the headstock. I find it easiest to just pass the raw, uncut string through the retainer, over the bridge & nut, & extend past the peg, then cut about 3-4 finger-widths from there.
     

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