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Damn bridge keeps coming out...

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by SpankBass, Sep 3, 2002.

  1. The bridge on my 4 string fretless doesn't want to stay in. At first I tried putting tooth picks in the holes then screwing it back in, that worked for a little while, but it ripped out again. So this time around I tried mixing wood glue and baking soda along with another toothpick to try and keep it in, that only laster for about 2 weeks. So now I am calling out to you setup gods for help! What are some other things I can do to keep this damn thing in?
  2. What type of bass / bridge is it? What gauge strings and tuning do you use?
  3. bigger (diameter and length) screws.
  4. Its a gavlestone 4 string p-clone. Tuned normaly, but I am using flat wounds, which I hear are high tension. Shoulda included that in the original post.
  5. I would agree with going for a larger screw diameter or something with bigger threads. You could also glue some dowel rod into the holes and let it sit for a while before you re install the bridge.
  6. I would try the larger screws, but I don't think it would work. The way it was ripped out managed to ruin the holes pretty good, I don't think larger screws would do much. The dowel may work though...
  7. How about a nice set of threaded inserts (ala Alembic) and use machine screws for mounting the bridge? Larger screws with the holes so bunged up are going to present some other problems.

    Send me the body and I'll do it for you.
  8. Sounds like a great idea. Do you ever have to enlarge the holes in the bridge when you do that sort of thing?
  9. Is there a site that explains step by step (Installing ThreadedInsertsForDummies.com) on how to do that? Or would you be kind enough to give me directions? If it's too much for me to handle, then are you serious about doin it for me? I can go out and buy whatever parts needed, and send them to ya along with the bass's body. IIRC, you live in Georgia right? That could probably be done, if that is you weren't kidding about this.
  10. No, there isn't a site that describes this but I suppose you could do it yourself. This is a fairly common woodworking procedure. The holes would be enlarged enough to thread the inserts in so, even though the holes are larger, they are filled with the metal insert. The inserts are sunk flush with the top of the body. A very elegant and sturdy solution. How easy this is will depend on your ability with tools (drill, drill press, screwdrivers) and your confidence in the process. Some of the larger inserts have hex drive heads that use an allen drive to sink them in the wood. Others have a simple cross-slot. These are more prone to problems because the slot isn't too strong. You have to be careful when driving these into the wood.

    Sure I was serious. You pay shipping both ways and the small cost of the inserts and bolts and I'll do it for free. I'd need your bridge also to align the inserts and I'll need to know if you want steel or brass inserts and brass, plated, or stainless mounting bolts. Turnaround within 2 weeks.
  11. Yeah, I'm not too confident with my ability with machines, plus I don't have any available to me right now. Hmmm I just checked over at UPS.com and got a quick quote. 20-30 bucks one way. So I'm looking at like 40-60 plus the small cost of the bolts and the such? I don't know, do you think it would be cheaper for me to take it to a repair person locally?
  12. That's a big waste of money to send it any other way but ground. I calculated your rate from 92840 with a fairly oversize box (24" x 16" x 6") at 5 lbs. and it came to less than $10 one way. You may also want to look at USPS for a competitive rate.
  13. Hmm maybe I entered the info in wrong, but yeah 20 bucks plus the 5-10 bucks I'm assuming the stuff will cost doesn't sound that bad. Lets take it to a PM.

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