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Defretted neck finish

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by nandinga, Nov 11, 2013.

  1. nandinga


    Nov 11, 2013
    Barcelona, Spain
    Hi all!!

    I've just removed the frets of an older bass of mine and (I recognize, horribly) filled the fret slots using a fiberglass wood crack repair paste that I never used before, just to discover that it easily disintegrates by touching or getting it a bit wet.

    I did so because I didn't really care much about the aesthetics (not that ugly, really) and it was a lot easier than the regular method using wood veneer. Mostly because I don't have a rounded sanding block to preserve the necks shape, so I had to try to sand the minimum possible.

    My intuition tells me that if I use the correct finish over the paste (well, the whole neck) I could "glue" the paste in place and isolate it from moisture, thus fixing the problem.

    Am I on the right path? Which kind of finish would be good? I guess oils are not good because they're not sticky. I also understand lacquer is not a good idea in the fingerboard, right?

    Thanks in advance!!
  2. nandinga


    Nov 11, 2013
    Barcelona, Spain
    I'm finally buying the finish tomorrow. Would really appreciate some advice from you people, probably better than the one from the guy at the hardware store...

    Thanks in advance :)

    BTW: playing it since a couple of weeks as it is now (no finish) and the sound and feel made me go in love with the "fretless" thing!! :) I've put some nylon covered flatwounds on it and really like the feel. Still not sure about the tone (great umplugged) but will be installing some DiMarzio Area J on them soon. I'll let you know!!
  3. I'm not sure, but I was thinking of something along the lines of clear spray on engine enamel. I was thinking of making a fretless neck at some point, and that stuff looked like it might work, and at a decent price. Anyone object?
  4. nandinga


    Nov 11, 2013
    Barcelona, Spain
    Well my case is somewhat special... I had to "attach" the fiberglass paste to the neck, but in fact I think I'll not do that anymore. I've found there exists another kind of paste, in spanish "mastique" that looks much harder and resistant to humidity.

    My concern is that I'll probably need to sand after applying it, and I don't have a curved sanding brick (or however it is named in english... you can now say confidently that I'm not a native speaker hehe). I guess I'll have to look for one of those at the end... the thing is that if I end up buying one of those, I would probably be better off doing it right and using wood veneer :p
  5. rogerb


    Aug 31, 2010
    I tried to make a sanding block, it worked poorly.

    I bought one on my next re-epoxying and it really is the way to go, much better results. I'm not liking whatever you put in those slots, sounds like trouble down the road, wood veneer and a little white glue, cut the veneer down close to the fretboard and then radius wood block.

    Add two component epoxy to cover all and the more with the radius wood block.