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Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by D.Don, Sep 22, 2008.
Hmm, I see, though I was thinking of continuing using the radiusblock here ...
nahhh...maybe the first wet n dry...but the last 2 will be more about bringing out the shine
After your last wet-sand you can buff in one last coat with a square of old blue jeans or terry cloth. Then let that coat dry fully and buff it one more time dry--that'll really make the danish oil shine.
Interesting suggestions all along, so far this danish oil has stunned me completely! This neck is now the most amazing looking thing ever seen with the black stain and then the oil layers filling the wood nice and smooth, more and more after each layer..
Only crap is the perl dots as I have sanded a lot a few of them have given in and opened small tiny holes that has let in some stain/oil so they look a little bit "dirty", but considering there will be strings on the bass in the end, it's really no biggie. I also have a little tiny crack of wood down on like the 16th fret or so, that probably was there before, not really visible, but after the staining it became worse, though the oil seem to make it lots better, and no, I wont even consider fixing these small things, it's tiny details, and again "You live you learn", there will be more necks who get a treatment like this and now I have some few things to think about for that next one .. I start to feel the addiction here now ...
I did the final sanding today, and the surface of the fretboard is AMAZING, however, the stain all got lost in the sanding and now I am thinking of staining it again, and then apply a last coat of oil without sanding.. I am just a little afraid I will ruin the finish now that it's totally amazingly nice (the little crack I mentioned before has disappeared too after all the coats of oil and finally with the last 3 sanding rounds, now it just looks like a part of the woods natural graining!!).
Any advice or thoughts about the stain? I'd love to have this neck all nice black stained with an ebony look, though I really don't want to ruin the nice finish now!
wood is sealed and oiled, you won't really get the stain into the grain...I'd suggest you leave it...if it looks and feels great, you'll soon get quite used to the colour...
you might consider for a future project experimenting with an oil-based stain mixed directly into the tung oil.
Yeah, next project will be with oil based stain, indeed. Read somewhere about danish oil with pigments in too, sounds better to me after this experience.
Though I am not sure how this stain really worked out from the start, probably was not the right thing to use after all. I sanded down the surface and stained 3-4 layers and left the piece to rest for 24h, then I started the danish oil procedure. I was quite surprised when I did the oil sanding since it more or less looked like the stain was just like a thin film on top of the fingerboard, it shaved off in a few strokes only.. I thought it'd be sinking in more, but no!
However, I just added a thin layer (with a piece of cloth) of the stain, and tomorrow I will do that last layer of danish oil with a piece of jeans cloth or something similar as recommended above, then this part of the project is closed, finished and next step to polish the body will commence (until my nutfiles arrive).
Thanks for the advice and headsup guys, highly appreciated!
Exactly what do you mean here,
1. Buff in one coat of oil
2. Let it dry _fully_ , as in not even sticky anymore?
3. Buff it in one more time dry <-- This means what, just buffing the dry oil until it shines?
Wouldn't there get lots of dust etc. in that last layer? Will that all vanish when I do that final buff?
Yes, buff in one last coat of oil with the jeans.
Then, wait at least 12 hours before you buff it "dry" (it might be a little sticky still, but that's ok). That is, don't use any oil on the last buffing, just buff the dry coat.
It shouldn't create and dust if you buff it by hand with a piece of blue jeans--it will just make the oil shine.
Let me know if I'm still not making sense to you.
The neck looks beautiful by the way...nice job!
Yeah, I finally got it and the neck is on a drying rest now, will buff it out tomorrow, though I didn't have any rough jeans cloth pieces so I used a sponge...
Hmm, I have not posted any pictures of the neck yet, but the other neck in this thread looks indeed nice ...
pics will follow ..
Yeah, that's my neck. I actually have it off right now because I've decided to try coating it in a wipe on poly. In fact it's wet right now. Pics to follow ... soonish.
Woops, I thought that was your pic D.Don--sorry 'bout that.
I'll keep an eye out for the pics that are yours.
Here a a few shots from my recent addition of a wipe on poly finish. This was before final sanding and buffing.
Looks good there m8!
Here's the neck, oiled and buffed, the white/palish areas that looks like bad finish, is actually reflections .. hehehe.. I suck at photography, will await better weather and maybe I can get a better photo outside then ..
You should put a coat or two of west system epoxy( I use it), because maple is a softer than rosewood or ebony or other hardwoods that are used as a toneboards on fretless basses.So when you'll want to play on roundwound strings they 'll scratch your toneboard, no matter what lacquer( PU,Nitro..) or oil is on it...
No epoxy for me, I suppose you mean jimmy's neck there ...
yeah, sorry.., jimmy's neck..., but the roundwound strings will scratch rosewood too, specially if you'll bend them,
If one ever use rounds that is.. (I don't) ..
Ok, so I promise no more confusing posts of my neck. Yours looks like it's comong right along D. Don.
p.s. flats for me too!
Yeah it's great, the fretboard is shiney and really good looking, I am just a crappy photographer .. On my way purchasing nut-files, and then it's ready for rock'n roll as soon as the nut is done.
This weekend I will purchase some polish and polish the body and the non fretboard part of the neck, then I will attach the neck to the body and start dressing the body with hardware, electronics etc.