Defretting and coating

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Rafterman, Nov 21, 2001.

  1. I'm interested in having my L-2000 defretted in 2 years or so and i'm wondering if this is even possible. I want to have this done professionally and I want it coated with a protective coating such as "boat epoxy" or something.

    can I ask a tech at GC to do this for me? and can it even be done?
  2. Aaron

    Aaron Supporting Member

    Jun 2, 2001
    Seattle, WA
    Many people have defretted basses. I've coated my fretless in boat epoxy. I had about 10 layers on mine, but the top layer some how shed off :)confused:) but the layer below it has not.
  3. Steve Mosher

    Steve Mosher

    Oct 23, 2001
    If you are applying an epoxy coating to a wood or other surface, be sure that the surface is not oiling or dirty. Some wood fingerboards have absorbed alot of hand oils form player contact over time. Sometimes players have 'treated' their fingerboards with oils to keep them looking good. Some species of wood have fairly high oil content inherent in them. An oil or other contaminant will act as a barrier to the epoxy bonding with the surface. I t basically acts as a mold release.

    Multiple coats should be applied in very thin coats. Otherwise I can assure you that you will end up doing a lot of sanding/leveling. It can end up very frustrating trying to regain the proper relief.

    As epoxy cures, a 'waxy' surface coating immerges. This amine blush acts as a barrier to adhesion of the next coat. Therefore you must remove that waxy surface material between coats for best bonding. You may wish to sand between coats so as to keep the correct fingerboard shape, but do not rely on sanding to remove this coating. Sandpaper is just as likely to move the waxy stuff around on the surface as to remove it. You simply will not know if this has occured until you see how well the next coat bonds. By then its too late. Instead, wipe the surface with a keytone, like Acetone.

    You will probably also have some pretty crude looking fret slot areas after removing the frets, that
    will either need to be somewhat hidden by filling.
    Good luck!

    We have a rack of pretty aweful looking attempts that players told us to simply keep when we replaced them with graphite necks., One is an old, carved and signed Michael Tobias 5-string that is just plain pitiful.

    So unless your a hobbiest into a real project, just take your wood neck off, sell or keep it and buy a graphite neck for about $310. It will sound and operate better, and save you a heap of hassle.:D
  4. Player


    Dec 27, 1999
    USA Cincinnati, OH
    So Steve, do you want to get rid of some of those "aweful looking attempts"?
    I can use some fretting practice.
  5. would probably be foolish for me to ruin my G&L neck...i'll just get a fretless neck from Warmoth.

    I want the same feel as my L-2000's jazz neck.
    Will Warmoth have this neck...and will it fit perfectly into the neck pocket?

    Please gimme some suggestions!!!:)
  6. adamaarts


    Apr 19, 2001
    Corona, CA
    Beta tester Source Audio, demos/reviews of many others
    i made my own fretless off a link in, basically it was this:

    1 take a screwdriver and hammer and carefully angle it (like 45) and take off the frets
    2 sand the neck so its smooth
    3 fill the fret holes with wood filler product (or epoxy)
    4 sand that down when it dries and refill any holes
    5 coat it with a layer of polyurethane
    6 repeat coating like 5 times with thin layers

    this cost me 11 bucks.

    go to that site for pictures and stuff, but thats a brief on how i did mine.