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Design considerations for a 1" thick bass.

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Headless Llama, Jan 3, 2012.

  1. I am kind of thinking out loud here. I would really like some feedback on the design considerations of having a one inch body.

    I know I have seen them as thin as 3/4 of an inch. I remember that being a neck through. Is is possible to make a bolt on with a 1 inch thick body? I understand the neck will have to be thin enough, perhaps 1/2 thick at the join to accommodate a sufficient neck pocket for strength.

    What are some other issues I may run into with this design? Should I use a neck through design for this?

    Thanks for any and all feedback.
  2. I don't know if this helps/relates to what your're trying to say,but Greg Curbow's bass bodies appear to be very,very,thin.
  3. They do appear to be very thin. Do you know how thin they are? Especially the area with the neck join?
  4. Greg Johnsen

    Greg Johnsen

    May 1, 2005
    Hickory NC
    I've played a couple of Curbows, and his bodies are thicker than 1". They have a carved top so they appear to be thinner. The two I played had a standard bolt neck pocket, but the top of his neck (as in the front face of the fretboard) was a good 1/2" or so above the front/top of the bass.

    What kind of electronics are you going to be putting in the bass? you have to make sure that all of the pots/components will have clearence on both sides.

    I think a neck through would be the easiest to do, and with a neck through you can taper the ends of the body down to 1" or less while keeping the width of the neck 1 1/4-1/ 1/2" thick. If that all makes sense.

  5. I've just been there. My 2 string for my son had a 25mm thick body and is pitted against a 4yo, so I wanted some strength. here is how I dealt with the neck pocket. The timber it was bolting through was only 10mm thick, ie. thinner than half an inch.

    Firstly, I extended the joint up behind the 12 fret.

    Secondly, I used 3 screws and a 3mm steel plate to attach it to the body to the neck.

    This meant the plate added stiffness to the timber and the joint. Nothing is moving back there. Now you could make it so the neck inserts deeper into the body. That would be a good way of get less heel but a decent strong joint. The trick is to have plenty of timber AROUND the neck joint to support the thin piece of timber it's bolting THROUGH. Through is the word too. If you have a decent steel plate, the timber is just sandwiched and doesn't have to be as strong.

    Your other concern with a thin body is jack inputs. I went with a strat jack plate as then it was angled and the tip wouldn't come out the other side of the body. Even then, I couldn't recess the cover as there was no room.
  6. Dadagoboi

    Dadagoboi CATALDO BASSES Commercial User

    Jul 1, 2005
    Florida Swamp
    CataldoBasses: Designer/Builder ThunderBuckerPickups:Consultant
  7. I would do either a neck through or a set neck. Either way, you tend to get a nicer neck heel than with a bolt-on.

  8. Thanks for all of the opinions. I may end up adding a 1/4 top out of the same wood, just to add a little more area for the neck join.
  9. Meatrus


    Apr 5, 2009
    Or a core of a contrasting wood then use the 1" thick stuff as a top and back (obviously thinned down!)
  10. I like that idea! I'll see how it turns out after I resaw for the top, if it is awesome, then I will likely use mahogany for the core.

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