I love vintage fender and most open back tuners, they seem to hold tune better than sealed, plus you can flip the side on good ones. Bit ! $! $$, 25$ each for hipshots, us 6plus string players the cost is high. At first I had just wanted to make a few hipshot copies for my own use, then I came opon this.. it is a 20-1 worm gear, but the new profile supposed ly provides higher torque and greater stability. Hmmm. Off to the machine shop! Also anyone know a sourace for work gear sets?
I can make them but after setup and materials they will cost a heck of a lot more than Hipshot charges for complete turners.
I was thinking aircraft aluminum, how large of an order would you estimate to get down to about 10$ a piece. I think there is a market, what makes me think so is how much hipshot ultralight s go for used, not much less than new. Maybe I'm underestimating what they could be sold for, I was thinking 25 tops, but that tapered gear is revolutionary, I estimate 200% more contact area. At first I thought that meant 200% better holding , then I realized friction at the nylon probably contribute s to the "lock" as well. Probably friction between the sprocket and the housing too. I hope no one steals this idea. I better send off a patent app just in case it ends up working.
The shaft with a worm gear could be made on a lathe but you would have to brooch the gear. That would require the proper size brooch and the set up to make the gear. The tolerances would have to be held extremely tight and parts would have to be hardened afterward too. I wouldn't make one for myself even though I could. You would have to go overseas and order a boatload to get the price that low.
Is the screw part referred to as a spiral pinion shaft? Brooch, hobbing, you machinist s have cool words! I had enrolled in a few machinist classes for this semester but missed the deadline. I know someone with a 3rd generation machine shop, huge building,, they make parts for Lockheed, Boeing, nasa, dod, but I guess even companies like that are outsourcing to china. My friend is also a fair guitar ists and he hates the family business, looking to find something new to produce. We tried flameworking torches but they are really complicated. A made in the USA hipshot alternative , possibly with different grades, if the taper improve s the tuner noticeably and is not just a gimmicks we could charge more for those, and have straight gears cheaper. I'm tires of trying to explain sketches tho, and I'm not good with modeling software yet. Powder coated and polished or beaded satin all would be cool finishes.
Is the screw part called a hob? Recommend a book to learn the basics terms, I feel stupid trying to communicate this stuff. Primitive worm gear hobbing in a lathe:
Can I make both parts with this? http://m.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-10-inch-precision-mini-lathe-93212.html could I cut the worm screw ((term?)) With deep deep threads and then grind a v in the center to achieve that?
Doesn't have to be exactly as pictued, just a square tipped round shaft , and a gear with a way to attach thev3/8; -1/2" string post.
A couple of basic bits of information: The gear set that you posted a picture of is a true worm drive gear set. That's the strongest, most precise form of a worm drive. The hourglass form worm keeps the maximum tooth surface area in contact. The geometry is tricky and the machining process to make them is complicated and expensive. That class of gear set is overkill x 100 for bass tuner gears. On a true worm drive gear set like that, the worm (which is the gear on the shaft) is normally cut on a CNC lathe, then hardened and ground on a pretty fancy CNC grinder. They can be cut on an old-fashioned manual lathe, with some special tooling setups. The "worm gear" (the round bronze one) is usually cut by a process called Gear Hobbing. You can do small gear hobbing on a milling machine or a manual lathe with some special cutters and setup, but it's usually done on a special Gear Hobbing Machine. With that said, I don't think any instrument tuners are made with true worm drive gear sets. Waaay too expensive and completely unnecessary. They all use "cheater" gears, which aren't true worm geometry. The worms are cut as a straight screw thread, with a rounded tooth profile, which can be cut on any common thread-cutting lathe. On the cheapest tuners, they are sometimes just die-cast, with no machining. The "worm gears" used in tuners aren't really worm gears. If you look close, you'll see that most are actually spur gears with angled teeth. Even the old-style open gear tuners, like the Klusens and Schallers, don't have real worm gears. They look like them, but they aren't. The teeth are cut using a small round cutter on an angled axis, while the gear blank is indexed to the tooth positions. What this means is that these cheater gear sets only have a narrow line of surface area contact between the gear teeth. The torque capacity of these cheater sets is only a small fraction of the torque capacity of a true worm drive set of the same size. But that's all that's needed. A bass tuner doesn't see much torque at all, in gearbox terms. There's no rational reason to go to all that extra trouble to add 10x or 100x the torque capacity. It's not going to make the tuner work any better. Even using the cheater gears, making your own tuners is going to be far more expensive than what you'll pay Hipshot. I can speak from experience. My own Scroll Basses require special tuners. I have my own machine shop, and experience with gear design and tooling. I currently use Schaller BML tuners and modify them by machining up special posts for them. Not too difficult. But I've looked in detail at making up my own custom tuners, real classy open gear style ones. Even simple ones will be $100 per tuner in my labor and materials. I may eventually do it, as a special feature on my high-end models. It's not realistic to think that you can make tuners for less than they do. Unless you have free machinery and work for $3 per hour.
Is the screw part referred to as a spiral pinion shaft? Brooch, hobbing, you machinist s have cool words! I had enrolled in a few machinist classes for this semester but missed the deadline. I know someone with a 3rd generation machine shop, huge building,, they make parts for Lockheed, Boeing, nasa, dod, but I guess even companies like that are outsourcing to china. My friend is also a fair guitar ists and he hates the family business, looking to find something new to produce. We tried flameworking torches but they are really complicated. A made in the USA hipshot alternative , possibly with different grades, if the taper improve s the tuner noticeably and is not just a gimmicks we could charge more for those, and have straight gears cheaper. I'm tires of trying to explain sketches tho, and I'm not good with modeling sof
Yes, that video shows the hobbyist way of doing gear hobbing. The cutter itself is called the Hob. In that video, he's using an ordinary tap as a hob. The Hob needs to be essentially a replica of the Worm that you plan to use with the Worm Gear; same diameter, same thread pitch, same tooth profile. But the Hob has flutes cut in it, and is hardened and sharpened so that it will cut teeth. If you design your gear set so that the Worm matches a standard screw thread, then you can use a standard tap as the Hob, as he's doing in that video. Likewise, you can use a standard Die with the lathe to cut the threads on the Worm. It's not perfect geometry, but that's the simplest way to make your own matched Worm/Worm Gear sets. That's essentially how I plan to make them, if I ever get around to it. It's a workable process, but still a lot of labor.
Thank you bruce, very much. Re. The last thing you said, o don't expect to manufacture them in quantity, just invent and design them.I would like to have a bass I made everything on, from winding pickups to cutting the abalone. Personal goal. Is there anything like a hipshot on the market? Open back, compact tuner e head?
Just one guys opinion, but I prefer just a little lash between the worm and ring on the open style machine heads. I takes less effort to turn with just an RCH of lash, which makes it easier (for me anyway) to hit it just right when I bring it up to pitch. Go about a half step flat, then gently pull the string to take up the lash, then tune to pitch. If you want more precise, build a machine head with the adjustment shaft running parallel to the string post. Put a spiral cut ring on the string post and a matching tapered pinion on the adjustment shaft. Design it so you can shim the pinion in and out to make the lash fully adjustable and use roller bearings to support the shafts instead of bushings. If you really wanted to increase the wow factor, design it so you can uses different size pinions to adjust the gear ratio so you could set it to individual preference for high or low ratio tuners. Or just build a planetary gear set so the adjustment shaft could be put in line with the string post to make it more compact.
That is exactly how i, and most experienced players tune, I saw my daughter just tuning down and I realized tuners , especially cheap ones can't do thay, they go flat. This high contact thong should take the play out completely. I just need to make one prototype, trying to learn cad. Maybe I'll 3d print a plastic one to demo.
Just curious, but what exactly are you inventing? Do you have a design for a totally different kind of tuning mechanism or are you just putting your own spin on a standard tuning machine? Personally, I am of the opinion that the time, cost, tooling, and effort it would take to machine my own tuners compared to the cost of a set a good set of tuners simply is not worth it.
Actually several reasons, First it bothers me that there is only one "Proper" tuning machine on the market for bass, Hipshot Ultralights. Nothing else is good enough once you use them (iMO). Guitar has many, and they offer bass tuners too, but usually are just a scaled up version of a guitar tuner. I cut a few sealed tuners open and couldnt believe how small the working parts were. and Play. too much play. At first i wanted to see if it would be hard to build a set of my own, and if I could get the parts cheap enough. I can get a 20-1 worm gear set in about the right size for about $4, if I buy 100, made of aircraft aluminum,. Then there is the housing, which my jewelry background has me leaning twords casting rather than fabrication or machining for economics. I could 3d print the housing, then vacuum investment cast them in brass, or silver, or whatever. It was while messing around with the idea that one of the companies I contacted sent me information on the 20-1 high co9ntact worm gear set, and I realized that even if it didn't improve the function, people would think it did, if nothing else it looks pretty cool. I am always looking for a new career, or at least a profitable tangent, I make stuff, that's my thing. if I stumble on something I think will fly, I'm going to jump on it, prototype it, find a manufacturer, package it, bring it to NAAM and hype the hell out of it, give it to every master bassist I can think of, print t shirts and fire them from cannons....well you get the idea. I have had too many good ideas end up on the shelf by someone else a year or two later, right now, 3 other people probably thought of the same thing. I want to make a tuner to compete with hipshot. Cotter Pins. My last name is Cotter, Cotter Pins has a nice ring to it. If you leave the cotter pin off the wheel of your car, the wheel falls off, it's just a little piece of wire, but I have had a wheel fall off a vw bus, torqued to 280, roll right past me on the highway going down a bridge. A friend of mine tried it with Glass picks, they made thousands, took em to NAAM (that makes a huge difference), gave em away, but the problem was, while the idea was cool, and they looked great, they really were useless to play with, too twangy and odd. It might not even work, maybe the play comes from somewhere else, or they will be too hard to turn, who knows. I'm hoping there will be zero play, that you can tune sharp to flat, and they will feel butta smooth. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel, in fact the open back design is a throwback to fender's 18-1 design, I just want to improve it. If however 5 years from now I am a Bass Tuning Pin (because people will call them tuning pins then) mogul, I will offer them in a 22-1, if it works to be able to tune sharp to flat then finer adjustments are possible,like the micro tuners on a Floyd Rose, you can tune sharp to flat on those. here are some bad ideas I have had regarding tuners-- I had considered moving the tuner to the body and adding a high torque mini motor to adjust them, or adding a secondary 40-1 set of gears turned by an inset in the peg head, adding an offset additional gear to make turning the peg effortless, endless random bad ideas.