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Did I mess up my Pbass?

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by twc1313, Nov 5, 2013.


  1. Hipshot B sounds exactly like the original except it doesn't move around and it's louder. My favorite.

    TI nickel flats are the loudest. My favorite.

    AVRI 62 pickups are insanely good. I prefer Fralin 5% overwound for added thickness and wallop but that comes at the price of a little detail. Just the same that's as far as I would go from stock AVRI 62, after that the tradeoffs get bad to my ear, also too much magnet is a whole set of string pull nightmares in itself, that warbling.

    As you say, the playing is the thing, and we can choose things to optimize the plank for best dynamic range, lowest noise, slingshot attack, texture (grunt or growl).

    And you're right, tone...well that's just a balance of frequencies filtered or boosted, and that's what EQ is for. I have a great all-wenge neck with a big 1 KHz spike. No prob, 6dB of cut and it's fixed. To me a great piece of wood isn't mostly about tone, it's about how it responds to, stores, and releases a note. A player who plays with a compressor will never know. He can save a fortune, he can even play a 2x4.
     
  2. PJRL

    PJRL

    Mar 27, 2010
    greenfield center NY
    I think you will un-solder the P-up conection if you do another Pickguard assy but cool idea.

    Is there a CS P bass pickup sold by Fender ? If so I want one, I have the CS 60's in my J bass and it's great.
     
  3. theres your answer
     
  4. If you find the SD scooped, have you considered turning up the Mids on your amp?

    G.
     
  5. twc1313

    twc1313 Practice is the cure for GAS...or so I've heard. Supporting Member

    Oct 28, 2013
    Pittsburgh, Pa
    I'm gonna go with the stamped bridge and the 62's...when I tried to put the qp's in, the soldering was so tough that my iron wouldn't melt it. Does fender use some kind of high temp super solder or is my iron just crap?:meh:
     
  6. M.R. Ogle

    M.R. Ogle Gold Supporting Member Commercial User

    Nov 5, 2004
    Mount Vernon, Illinois
    Backstage Guitar Lab owner
    +1 to all of the above. ALL of it!
     
  7. Steve Dallman

    Steve Dallman Supporting Member

    Soldering is a matter of having a clean, clean, clean, well tinned soldering iron of the right wattage (I like 30-40 watts) and good, rosin core solder. If the tip is dark, it has too much tarnish to transmit the heat.

    For easily obtained solder, I love Radio Shack's solder, the thinnest rosin core they have. I've used many brands of solder, but I keep coming back to the RS stuff.

    Solder from hardware stores, even when it's the correct type of rosin core, often is lousy.

    Clean shiny tip, and good solder. Heat the work, not the solder and all will flow nicely. Remember, solder is not an adhesive. Make a good mechanical connection then solder.
     
  8. bjabass

    bjabass

    Jan 10, 2011
    Mountain South
    I put SD QP's on my p with 500k pots in both vol and tone and it cuts through like no bass I've ever heard. I use light gauge GHS round wounds and the mids are great. I wouldn't call it a traditional p sound but I get more comments than with my stock p bass.....by far.
     
  9. DiabolusInMusic

    DiabolusInMusic Functionless Art is Merely Tolerated Vandalism Supporting Member

    I find my QP's far from scooped, they are almost too mid-dy... maybe I have them installed backwards... My QP's don't cut the mix, they overpower it and sit on top. I really enjoyed them initially, they were a huge improvement from the stock MIM's in my opinion but I have grown to like them less and have been debating changing them. I have some SPB-2's (Hots) on hand that I have never used but I did really enjoy the set of SPB-1's (Vintage) I installed on another bass.
     
  10. Gaolee

    Gaolee Official leathers tester and crash dummy

    Nobody has said anything about using a piece of foam under the strings at the bridge. Use a foam mute and it will enhance the vintage thump, no matter what else is going on.
     

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