Psst... Ready to join TalkBass and start posting, make new friends, sell your gear, and more?  Register your free account in 30 seconds.

different take on series/parallel mod...

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by sheepdog, Nov 1, 2005.


  1. sheepdog

    sheepdog

    Feb 20, 2003
    Birmingham, AL
    Current setup:

    Volume (push/pull active/passive)
    Blend
    Bass/Treble stack


    New Setup:

    Volume (push/pull active/passive)
    Volume (push/pull series/parallel)
    Bass/Treble stack
    Passive Tone


    I would think the wiring would go:

    neck and bridge pickups ->
    series/parallel switch ->
    volume controls ->
    passive tone ->
    active/passive switch ->
    preamp (if in active mode) ->
    output jack

    is that the right order for the wiring? Passive wiring for this is easy enough. Lots of different posts about this. My question was how to wire the preamp into the chain. How is the active/passive switch wired?


    thanks
     
  2. Your post doesn't make any sense...I understand what you want from the knob configuration...

    but this "one thing leads to another" wiring sequence thing????

    and the other thing...are you talking about a jazz bass (two single coil pickups) where the series/parallel thing is actually series/parallel for the pickups as opposed a series/parallel thing like on a humbucker?


    a proposed schematic illustrating what you're talking about would be much more useful
     
  3. sheepdog

    sheepdog

    Feb 20, 2003
    Birmingham, AL
    series/parallel between the two single coil pickups.

    I would draw out a schematic, but you think the previous post didn't make sense? Try reading my schematics.

    The "->" part is just meant to be the basic order. In other words, the preamp should be wired after the active/passive switch. The volume controls would have to be wired before the tone control. That sort of thing. I just wanted to make sure I had the BASIC order correct, not show an actual layout/schematic. If I could do that, I wouldn't have needed to post the question.
     
  4. ahhh...i see what you're after...

    I'd say, yes...that's the way I'd do it...

    the other thing you COULD do is have the passive tone control only work when the preamp was biased. But having it before the preamp would be ok, too, and probably more useful.
     
  5. Luis Fabara

    Luis Fabara

    Aug 13, 2000
    Ecuador (South America)
    Audio Pro - Ecuador
    No..
    The order is plain wrong.

    You cant put 2 pickups, use a series/parallalel switch for using both, and then put 2 volume controls, because you ALREADY joined the sound of the 2 pickups with the switch.

    You can put the volume controls BEFORE, the problem will arise when you use the series setting.


    On other thing, the VOLUME should be the LAST component to go to the output jack. (You can vary this, but this is the best).
    The preamp should be BEFORE.

    You just cannot put an "order" of connection... it doesnt work that way.

    For example, the pickups with its switch, would be wired to the PREAMP.. AND the Active/Passive Switch.. in the same step.

    Etc, etc
     
  6. I'd have the series/parallel switch bypass the second volume, so in series the first volume is a master and the second does nothing.
     
  7. sheepdog

    sheepdog

    Feb 20, 2003
    Birmingham, AL

    yes, that is what would obviously be required. Hard to convey that in my rough outline, but yet. Parallel would have 2 independent volume controls, series would have one master volume.

    and the tone control is a fender no load pot, so no reason to have to wire where it is on only in passive. If I want it off in active mode, just turn it to "10". (still can't believe I got one new, everyplace I checked had them on permanent back order)
     
  8. Lyle Caldwell

    Lyle Caldwell

    Sep 7, 2004
    Memphis
    You can turn any CTS pot into a "no load" pot. Open the casing, and find where on the resistive track the wiper sits when on 10. Put a dab of clear nail polish on this spot. Let it dry and then put the case back on the pot.

    Now when the pot is on 10, the pot is out of the circuit. From 9 down, it functions as a normal tone pot.
     
  9. sheepdog

    sheepdog

    Feb 20, 2003
    Birmingham, AL

    yes, I know about converting it to a no load pot. I just wanted to see if I could get the real thing.

    yes, that is exactly how it would function.


    thanks for the responses. now I just need to see if the push/pull pots will squeeze in there side by side. Really nice if I could find a 250K push/pull mini pot, but I haven't seen one like that
     
  10. I bought a 500K push-pull mini pot is what I just put in my Yamaha...I got it at guitarpartsresource.com it's nice and compact and fit it the tight space of my RBX170 just fine.

    Here's what I got...

    [​IMG]

    they also have a long neck version...

    [​IMG]



    Buy the way, for you international folk, I had absolutely no problems with ordering on line and having it sent here to australia.

    it works fine...doesn't feel quite as "tight" as the stock pots...but the response is quiet ans smooth...and the switching is clean..
     
  11. you see...this is why we need a schematic...because you're arguing stuff that SHOULD be obvious, but because its written in this "signal chain" type arrangement it doesn't take into account accurately things like the switching. and then becomes a bone of contention.