Dingwall 0.145 string tapering too short

D'Addario "super long" = 38" in winding length (ball end to taper) = not long enough on a 37" scale like the Dingwall.

There are companies whose "extra long" can be as long as 40".

 

Not really, those are typically suitable for 35" scales.
'Super long scale' describes the string winding length as being longer than D'Addario 'Long scale', it does not describe the bass guitar.

Manufacturers use varying descriptive words for string winding lengths and these are never guarantees because fitting a bass guitar depends on the particular instrument dimensions and bridge/headstock design. This is why you are advised to measure and compare to the string's 'winding length', there should be information about this on D'Addario's website.

It is clearly not okay because the outermost wrap layer is now hanging down lower to the frets, so string action at the nut is messed up =)

 

https://www.paysonbass.com/store/p84/.145T_Nickel_Steel_H-SL_Fanned_Scale.html

 

String winding length is one of those things that's gotten to be much more of an issue recently. In the days where every bass was a Fender, you knew where the nut was, where the turner for the E string was, and that was it.

Now we have basses with 34", 35", multi scales, and through the body or top mount as another variable, and....how much string winding is enough? Geven that a lot of string makers want to make one string that will work for 34 or 35 inch scales (which means they wind more widings on it), the assumption that long scale strings will work on a Fender isn't even a given anymore.

I have through the body mounting options for the lowest string on all of my basses - I can top load or load through the body, which gives me more options for strings that will work on a given bass.

Regardless of what bass you've got, it's a very good idea to know what winding length range you bass will work with. You can take a G string, run it through your bridge's lowest string's location, pull it up to the nut, and mark where the nut and the lowest string's tuning peg occur on that string (Sharpie). Then, measure the distance on the string (off the bass) from the ferrule to those marks, and you have a range where the winding length has to be. The distance to the tuner, you should discount that by 1/4 inch or so, as a string will stretch about that much when under tension.

 

Actually he needs this .145T for the 5th position. We also have Drop G sets for four string fanned Basses.
https://www.paysonbass.com/store/p37/Payson_Fanned_NS_.145T_Single.html

 

What exactly is the difference?

 

Winding length by the looks of it. The 4th position one (to be tuned to B in a F#BEAD, or to A in a sub-octave EADGC, or similar) is probably, uh, less outrageously-long than the 5th positioner (B or A as the lowest ergo longest string).

 

This is what I figured out right after I posted my question.

I went on their site last night just out of curiosity as I had read a few posts in the past about Payson. This "5th position vs. 4th position" thing is not very clear for a casual browser who's not familiar with multi-scale basses. I wish they would just indicate the actual winding length (ball end to taper) clearly for each item listed.

 

Use the .145T in my link if you have a five string Fanned bass.
Use the .145T H-SL if you have a four string fanned bass.