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DIY 6x10 Build Thread

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by nebzero, Dec 19, 2008.

  1. nebzero


    Nov 24, 2008
    Lafayette, IN
    Well, after debating for a few months I decided to bite the bullet and build myself a 6 - 10" ported cab.

    I will be using Eminence BP102 drivers for the cab and 3 - 4" dia. ports.

    I drew up the specs with a general thought of ~8 cu ft for the cab.

    I ordered a used GK 1001RB (not II, FYI) for the thing; and so I can stop having to run my Backline 250 a max just to get a little cut through at practice.

    I started with one sheet of 3/4" MDF and the straightest, least knotted piece of 1x4 white for bracing.


    Then, after getting my cut list meticulously planned out I drew guidelines for my pieces on the MDF to make sure I could get it all out of one piece.

    The cab sits 41.5" tall, 24" wide, and 16" deep (thank you to Ampeg for the dimension idea!).

    Here are the sides (post notching for the caster) and the back panel:


    Then, we (my father and I, he's got the shop) ripped the 1x4 down to 1x1 strips and added the inside bracing:



    And, finally a pic of me next to one of the sides for scaling purposes:


    I had to re-notch the corner so the angles line up.

    Here's my questions:

    1) Will my new GK head be beefy enough for this cab?
    2) Carpet or tweed for the outside?
    3) Suggestions?

    Hope you all enjoy.

  2. visually looks good...

    is this in fact interior volume you have listed?
    have you run this driver through winISD for expected results?
    are you planning any more internal bracing being this is 3.5 feet tall?
    are you going to finish the walls in your shop?
    am i getting annoying?
    why dont you like shag carpet?

    good luck
  3. greenboy


    Dec 18, 2000
    remote mountain cabin Montana
    greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
    You might buy some plywood before you get any further along - that's going to be HEAVY.
  4. greenboy


    Dec 18, 2000
    remote mountain cabin Montana
    greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
    That'll end up maybe 6.5 cf net space internally depending on porting and additional bracing.
  5. nebzero


    Nov 24, 2008
    Lafayette, IN
    1) Its just shy of the 8 cu ft I spec'd for the design. I have the numbers sitting on the workbench (hour drive away to the 'rents house).
    2) I ran it through WinISD (had to manually program thiele-small) with a tuning frequency of 42hz. and everything looks to match the factory graphs and example projects I found.
    3) Not sure on additional bracing, any recommendations? Maybe a diagonal through the middle (top left to bottom right)? I'm fairly new to this type of carpentry, so I'm trying to find the balance between sturdy and overkill.
    4) We have the plywood to finish the shop, just waiting for a summer when the rental properties aren't vacant and we can work around his house.
    5) Not annoying, slightly dizzying.
    6) We have some 3" green shag from an old toy store around here laying around and I gave it serious thought but feared the dirt and filth that would become of the cab after just a few trips in and out of half the venues we gig.

    Thanks, I plan on putting some time in on Sunday.
  6. nebzero


    Nov 24, 2008
    Lafayette, IN
    The MDF felt lighter than the ply I spec'd, though I wish I would have spent the extra money as it seems the MDF may be too flaky for toting the cab. Once I put corners and such on I think it should be legit.

    The weight of the cab is estimated to be ~60-70lbs, which is significantly lighter in my mind than my GK BL410 cab which weighs 94lbs.

    Thanks for the suggestions! With the MDF being as inexpensive as it was, I figure I can switch for ply if it doesn't feel right and keep the MDF one for effect in the practice space.
  7. greenboy


    Dec 18, 2000
    remote mountain cabin Montana
    greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
    You need to multiply internal depth, width and height, and subtract the volume the drivers, bracing, handles, and porting takes up - as well as the slanted triangular area in back.

    A real common mistake for beginning cab builders and driver retrofitters is to grossly overestimate the internal volume.
  8. nebzero


    Nov 24, 2008
    Lafayette, IN
    You're making me sad, lol. I really appreciate the insight though. Since its all mocked up though I'm gonna try as is first. I won't put the finish on just yet.

    My final number included the slant, but not the drivers. I ran everywhere between 6.5 and 8 in WinISD to see what effects it had and to me the response curve changes were slight enough to be "within tolerances" for my purposes.

    This may end up being a tester for me, but I don't know many things until I try, lol. Like the Terror song, Always the Hard Way.
  9. greenboy


    Dec 18, 2000
    remote mountain cabin Montana
    greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
    Don't worry. There's plenty of space there for those drivers to perform. Just do some new calcs for your WinISD session, and post here.

    It's kind of hard to find what a driver displaces, but I just find a datasheet of a similar driver from ANY company that lists this and use it in my subtractions.
  10. rbonner


    Sep 25, 2008
    Even AMPEG when using OSB to make cabinets, used 3/4" plywood for the Baffle Board. (speaker mount) just a thought, the MDF will be fine everywhere else at this point.

    Ben you are funny looking. You look like you are from Minnesota and not Indiana. Is there any heat in that shop? :D Looks like you are having fun. Keep us posted on progress.

  11. greenboy


    Dec 18, 2000
    remote mountain cabin Montana
    greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
    OSB is lighter than MDF though.

    Hey nebzero,

    You said the MDF seemed lighter than whatever type of plywood you checked out. Are you sure that isn't particle board - LDF - low density fiberboard. That stuff would go to hell in a hurry. Perhaps your perception was just off.
  12. nebzero


    Nov 24, 2008
    Lafayette, IN
    I'll do that once I'm near dad's windows PC (my house is Linux/BSD only and WinISD doesn't run well under WINE).

    Is my tuning frequency of 42hz a good number to shoot for? I play drop D and am hoping to follow the manufacturers recommendations for a high pass at 35hz to prevent over-excursion.

    I'm still shaky on a lot of these finer things, my impatience and love for trial and error wins this time though.

    Thanks again!
  13. nebzero


    Nov 24, 2008
    Lafayette, IN
    I figured a different material for the baffle would be appropriate, since it isn't cut yet I was going to decide on that this weekend.

    The shop was ~54 degrees F, it has that nice radiant concrete floor heating, and the beard is an ongoing project. Kind of a social experiment, but work doesn't seem to mind. I like it.
  14. nebzero


    Nov 24, 2008
    Lafayette, IN
    I'll be working on the cab tomorrow, any last minute suggestions?
  15. nebzero


    Nov 24, 2008
    Lafayette, IN
    Okay, so we finished the cab this past Sunday. Sorry I lost track of posting pictures of the build. I have some more pics from just after Christmas of the build, but we were making such good time on the construction and I gave myself a deadline to finish so I didn't want to stop and take more pics.

    I'll post the finished pics (and the pics of my new rig with it) in a few days.


    It is 1) much louder 2) much warmer and 3) sounds like it isn't working as hard as my 4x10.

    I am having a problem though. While jamming with the band yesterday, I noticed that the cab (with my amp rack on top even) was dancing across the garage floor! It happens mostly on the low D string (tuned D A D G), before the 7th fret.

    Any insight? I really don't want to add weight, could the rubber feet I put on the bottom be a problem? I ended up having to use them to keep the casters from "kickstanding" the whole cab.

    Thanks for all your help, all... I couldn't have done this without TB!
  16. joelb79


    Mar 22, 2006
    Lansing, Michigan
    Pictures? You know the rule: no pictures, no cab.

    Did you carpet the cab? I have a hard time believing that it is moving around on its own accord. Maybe the garage floor is thinner and is vibrating on the low D. Just some thoughts.

    Rubber feet would help on hard surfaces, carpet on softer.
  17. alexclaber

    alexclaber Commercial User

    Jun 19, 2001
    Brighton, UK
    Director - Barefaced Ltd
    That's a clear symptom of insufficient bracing - more braces will be a bit of a fiddle to add but they'll be worth it for the improved tone and efficiency as well as keeping the cab from moving about.

  18. nebzero


    Nov 24, 2008
    Lafayette, IN
    I braced wherever two planes met and figured this was structurally sufficient. Where would bracing need to be added? Between the verticals?

    Would the bracing simply add sufficient weight to lessen the jumping? I'm just not sure how it would effect it in any other way. Not saying you're wrong, admittedly this is my first cab, just interested in the theory.

  19. nebzero


    Nov 24, 2008
    Lafayette, IN
    I used the latex-backed carpeting on the cab.

    The garage floor is concrete slab, so I'm not sure if it is flexing at all; perhaps reflection?

    I put the cab itself on a small piece of carpeting we had in the practice space and it helped keep the jumping down by a lot. Now it seems to be swaying. I wonder if it is just too tall and getting off balance.

    One thought I had today was to try and just put some sandbags or similar next to it to keep it from moving; maybe a "door snake" or something.

    I'll try and get the pictures up tonight when I get home.
  20. Rugaar


    Apr 11, 2007
    What's the final weight? Just curious on how close this estimate was.