DIY Cab Build - Help needed

A cube the least acoustically optimal shape. There is something called the golden ratio which is most optimal acoustically. Somewhere between the two is usually the most practical shape and practicality is what dictates the shape of most enclosures. To answer your question, changing the shape and keeping volume the same won't change the tuning.

The 12LF will benefit from a mid driver. It will require a crossover and it will end up costing a lot more to build your cab with one. Finding a driver that works better in the mid rage and still acceptable in the low freq range, combined with a high freq driver like a piezo, will be more economical as it won't require a crossover. If the cost is not an issue and hi-fi is what you want, then a 3-way cab is the way to go.

 

Running flat to 32Hz is unnecessary, and gives a box size far in excess of what makes sense. An f3 between 45 and 50 Hz is sufficient, even for 5 string. A two way system makes things unnecessarily complicated for a newby. The Deltalite II 2512 has the same xmax as the D12LF and therefore the same low frequency output capability. For that matter the Basslite S2012 has a higher xmax than either, but the 150 watt coil is a bit iffy if you're only running one.

No, you don't, but the vast majority of players would find the midrange of the D12LF inadequate without a midrange driver.

This question goes to the very heart of loudspeaker design, and why a program like WinISD in and of itself is inadequate for a good result. Using it along with a book on loudspeaker design that explains all is highly recommended.

 

"Hi fi," as you will see in threads on this forum, refers to a cab that has a flat response across the freq spectrum. Lets say a -3 @ 40 Hz and 18 kHz. This is a response more like a studio minitor than an ordinary bass cab. A typical 2x10 bass cab might be more like -3 @ 65 Hz and 3 kHz or a 1x15 might be 50 Hz & 1.5 kHz.

Eminence makes some 2 way x-overs that are around $60. There's other stuff out there in $25-30 range too. Problem is, they x-over at a freq more suited for a tweeter and midbass (similar to an avatar cab) than a midrange and sub like what you are thinking about.

 

Hey whitedk57, let's start from the beginning.
What kind of sound are you looking for

 

2512 II is better. I would use a tweeter or at least leave room directly above the driver to add one later, and I would shoot for around 2.4 cu ft @ 48 Hz.

 

Good call on the size and tuning for that driver. Manageable box size, good enough low end extension.

Avatar makes a box about that size and tuning. Check them out.

 

Order the plans to build yourself one of these:
http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/Omni12.html