OK, we know all about the stabilized wood products out there like Dymondwood, Rockwood, and any number of other brands and processes. I've been intriqued by these materials since about 1967 when my father (a craftsman in his own right) carved a set of candle sticks for the altar of a large church using a material called "NovaWood". This was the grandfather of the modern stabilized woods. Novawood was resin impregnated hardwoods that were then bombarded with gamma rays to alter the molecular structure of the wood. Each candle stick was about 2 feet tall and weighed in at around 20 lbs apiece. They still sit on the altar at that church and I expect they'll be there for the next 1000 years or so. Hey, where's the fun without a good story? At any rate, I've done an experiment using clear red cedar, walnut, maple and MDF. I cut small pieces and sealed them in a container filled with Minwax Wood Hardener. This is a clear, resin product designed to be used on soft or rotten wood to harden it and make it ready for paint. It's a pretty aggressive solvent based resin that soaks in, hardens and then can be sanded or painted. As I surmised before the test, the maple and walnut weren't porous enough to soak up much resin. They looked great on the exterior but inside, they weren't impregnated. BUT the cedar and the MDF were another story. The cedar soaked up the resin pretty good and made it much harder than original. I sliced through my sample piece and found that although the resin had soaked deep, it hadn't made it all the way to the core of my piece. The MDF was the best of all though. When it went into the resin bath, it began bubbling and foaming as the air inside the MDF escaped and was replaced by the resin. It was a lot of fun to watch. I let the samples sit for 48 hours before testing the results. The MDF came out solid and firm. It was darker (expected) but was about 4 times harder than the raw stock. Sanding it was easy and it created a heavier dust than before. I think it would be very easy to route or drill. My main idea was to use blocks of this as the returns on pickup covers. Route and sand the perimeter and cavity, glue a piece of nice presentation wood veneer to the top and paint the sides. It's gonna work great.