Do You Cut Your String Ends???

I do, but not alot

 

I cut so there are no more than three wraps on the tuning post. I think that tuning is more solid and reliable that way, even though I have no real proof (or Mp3s) of why that is.

 

Yes, I do. I bend it about 3-4 inches past its peg and then cut it off maybe 3/4 of an inch down from the bend, and stick that in the hole in the tuner, and it wraps around like 3 times. My bass almost never goes out of tune, but I'm not sure it's that....but I just like being neat about it anyway.

I think bending the ends before cutting it would stop any unraveling from occuring....but I don't think it would unravel even if it wasn't bent. I think the string companies know better than to keep only the ends fastened.

 

I do the same thing, just cause it takes forever to wrap it more.. lol.

 

Yes, I cut mine right at 4" past the tuning peg.

 

Depends on the design of your bass and tuning pegs.

If your bass has a straight headstock à la Fender, You may cut each string about 4 inches past their respective string post. Then you wind it (not by hand! use the tuning peg) from top of bottom to post. This will avoid open-string buzzing.

If you have an angled headstock, use the same method but you can cut your strings about 3 inches past the posts.

 

That's how DR wants you to string their round core strings. That's also how I do it.

 

Killdar

on my fender mim with a kahler trem i do it the same way as u.and it stay's is tune pretty well.

 

I always cut the ends and have never had a string unravel. I don't leave that much extra space: say, if I'm cutting the E, I'll usually snip about halfway between the A and D tuners--so about a "tuner-and-half" past the tuner the string goes onto. All my basses have small posts (unlike the big Fender ones) so this still leaves enough string to wrap around. FWIW.

 

I wrap the new string end one and a half times around the tuning post and then cut about an inch and a half or so out from the post. After putting a bit of the end in the center hole and then tuning up to pitch I usually have about two wraps around the post. Any more than that doesn't make any sense to me, just extra wraps to wind and to cause tuning instabilities.

 

I always cut my stings

With lots of different basses it's trial and error the first time to get the right length. Once I've done it I use the old string as a guide to how long the new string should be.

Once I've figured out the required length it's a matter of inserting the string end into the hole in the tuning peg and bending at a 90 degree angle. This can be done by hand. Then I use whatever number of wraps it takes to wind the string from the top of the peg to the very bottom. I tune a bit above pitch, hold the string near the nut while pulling with my right hand to remove slack and then tune to pitch.

This probably has everything to do with how well all of my basses stay in tune. Unravelling is not an issue. I also change one string at a time.

 

More wraps can put more downward pressure on the string at the peg. More is good, on tiltback or non-tiltback headstocks.

 

Very true, so it depends on what bass you have. Or if it has string trees or similar to help with this issue.

 

I do it on my basses with string trees or retainers too. The trees are usually for holding the string down at the nut. I think making the most solid connection you can at the tuning peg makes sense, regardless of headstock type (headless doesn't count).

 

The very dependable method of tuning your bass is as follows. Cut the string to length by pulling string up two tuning posts from the one you want to string. (Maybe 3 inches or so). Begin to tune. Once the string tension begins to increase (no looseness) take your left hand and starting at the bottom of the next place all fingers across fret board and put your right hand thumb five frets down from your left. Stretch the string by ancoring your left hand and pulling up with your right. Proceed up the next every 3 frets or so. This will help reduce detuning of new strings!

 

well i did until now..
bb king doesn't cut his strings. he wraps it all around the tuning peg.
have you ever seen him go out of tune?

im goin to try it on some guitars that i work on...(guitar tech for a band)

steve

 

I tend to cut the strings a generous handswidth (about 3-4" in my case) past their tuning posts.

First I roughly measure the distance, then I bend the string, giving it a little kink by squeezing with some pliers, and then cutting just past the bend. I've had no problems with strings unravelling...

Mind you, I found headless basses, with double ball end strings, much less hassle

Wulf

 

Lot of different factors. For me, my basses have the option of stringing through the bridge or my favorite through the body. So I need to cut off less depending on the brand. They differ from brand to brand. I play Laklands and use DR strings mostly. The G-string I don' cut at all. The others I pull the string through and give it a little bend over the saddle of the bridge. While still holding some tension I bring the string up to the tuning peg/chock/post/whatever and from the center hole I measure up two pegs and add about and inch for the bend and cut. This is what Carl at Lakland recommende to me years ago and that method works good. You could actually go to the extra effort and measure and record were to cut on that particular brand. I like taking my time putting on new strings, some people don't care that much.

Another thing I try to do is after pulling the string off I line-up the slot of the tuning post vertically with the neck and making sure the tuner key is flat showing the pretty chrome. I usually get all of them to line up nicely and like the look of the tuning keys all setting the same. just me.

 

When ever I change my strings, on my 4's I always get 3 wraps, and one string with 4. And on my sixer, with the C I get 6 wraps, the G 5, the D 4, and the rest 3.