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Does mounting speakers in a bass cab require special consideration?

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Acid Test, Nov 21, 2017.

  1. Acid Test

    Acid Test

    Oct 3, 2013
    New to bass and noticed my Avatar cab has the speakers mounted using simple wood screws.

    What is the preferred way to mount bass speakers to the cab? What works well?
  2. Front loaded speaker, use T-Nuts. No time to look them up now, but some are better than others.
  3. Rick James

    Rick James

    Feb 24, 2007
    New Jersey
    It depends on the drivers and the wood. Lightweight neo drivers with 3/4" plywood is no problem with screws, a 20 pound ceramic driver with 1/2" MDF is an accident waiting to happen. Screws have better retention than bolts and t nuts, which can loosen from vibration, but the combination of too much weight with the wrong material and screws can rip right out.
  4. JRA

    JRA my words = opinion Supporting Member

  5. johnson79


    Jan 8, 2010
    Lancaster, PA
    T-Nut, not to be confused with P-Nut.
    funkybassplayer likes this.
  6. Kro

    Kro Supporting Member

    May 7, 2003
    New Jersey
    I put a pair of Avatar cabs through pretty heavy use up until a few years ago. I'll say this for them, they're nothing if not solidly constructed.

    Are you having issues with them?
  7. DukeLeJeune

    DukeLeJeune rational romantic mystic cynical idealist Commercial User

    Nov 24, 2008
    Princeton, Texas
    Owner & designer, AudioKinesis; Auth. mfg, Big E (Home Audio only)
    I use #8-32 Hurricane nuts, a variation on the T-nut theme, sold by Parts Express.

    If the baffle is high-quality 3/4" plywood, you might consider this instead: Using a toothpick, swirl some Tightbond III wood glue inside the holes to re-habilitate the wood in case there has been any deterioration, let it dry overnight, and you should be good to go. Some of the other wood glues dry very hard and can crack, but Tightbond III will have a little bit of "give", which imo is better for this application where the metal threads of the screw will be biting into it.
  8. Is there some sort of issue, or just a general question?
    If there are no problems I wouldn't try to fix what ain't broke, especially stuff from Avatar.
  9. kartiste


    May 5, 2008
    On my last build, I used these clamps: DIY Speaker parts Grilles. However, I used 1/4-20 oval head SS screws instead of the socket head screws that came with the kit, and conical rack-mount washers. I made gaskets from neoprene sheet. Once compressed, the gasket itself pretty much holds the speaker by itself, and the clamps need not be supertight, so holding power is not an issue.
  10. Al Kraft

    Al Kraft Supporting Member

    May 2, 2016
    Northern Virginia
    I think wood screws can work fine and certainly have for many years on many cabs. When I run into a problem with holes in a wood mounting surface I plug them with wood glue glue and a dowel, rotate the part a bit, and drill new pilot holes.

    The T Nuts and Hurricane Nuts make me feel better because they provide a more solid connection. As for vibration with screws, a dab of Loctite Threadlocker (Blue 242, not the red stuff that requires heat for disassembly) is very effective when you're worried about vibrations, but still need to be able to service something using just regular hand tools for disassembly.
    basscooker likes this.
  11. Here are the "barbed body insert nuts" Parts Express sells that they say are more suited to some baffle materials, (high density particle board).

    "Parts Express 1/4"-20 Barbed Body Insert Nuts 50 Pcs." from www.parts-express.com!

    I have used cunstruction adhesive in conjunction with standard t-nuts in plywood baffles when the barbs don't hold adequately.

    Be careful to not over tighten speaker screws. Stamped steel speaker frames can be distorted by over tightening. I think I read a recommendation in some old Altec, or JBL documentation that recommended using four screws to mount speakers even though there may be eight holes in the frame.

    I second the recommendation for the use of thread locking compound.
  12. Coolhandjjl

    Coolhandjjl Supporting Member

    Oct 13, 2010
    I have built many bass bins and bass cabs, all with 1/2" baltic birch plywood. Never needed t-nuts or hurricane nuts. I've also worked on pro cabs. Recex screws is all that's necessary.

    A Recex screw looks like a simple drywall screw, but it's not. I has more aggressive threads, and a different profile of where it seats onto the surface to be mounted, so what Avatar uses may not really be just simple wood screws after all.
    Being an experimenter, I have installed and removed drivers many many times and never had these fail to bite in and hold properly in the same hole.
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2017

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