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duplicolor as a "primer" for nitro?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by ccrnnr9, Apr 24, 2009.


  1. ccrnnr9

    ccrnnr9

    Sep 1, 2008
    After much searching on these forums and some locally I found that duplicolor makes a desert sand-like color called santa fe tan. I am pretty sure it is an acrylic finish so my question is whether it will be compatible with my reranch fiesta red nitro. I want to do the S&S then shoot one thin coat of a white or tan color followed by a couple coats of fiesta red and polish once everything has cured to get a real vintage finish and have something similar to the pino pallodino signature p-bass when the undercoat will shine through over time. Will I run into any problems using the duplicolor directly underneath the fiesta red? I want to avoid shellacing in between so I have the thinnest finish possible and also insure a good wear and fade over time.
    ~Nick
     
  2. Probably would be ok but I would check with Reranch and use what they suggest. Of course, it will probably be one of their products. Why don't you use acryllic lacquers for the final finishes. There are hundreds of colors available.
     
  3. mikeyswood

    mikeyswood Banned

    Jul 22, 2007
    Cincinnati OH
    Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments
    Can you go to a car store and get a tan lacquer?
     
  4. ccrnnr9

    ccrnnr9

    Sep 1, 2008
    Here is the plan. I found someone here recomend FolkArt brand S&S from michaels. According to users here it is a nitro S&S (the can says cellulose nitrate which I assume is the same) and works well. I am then going to use the duplicolor as the "primer" coat. I found the santa fe tan at my local auto store and it should do the trick. According to a guy I contacted who does really nice vintage fender recreations, the best method to achieve a thin skin fender nitro finish is to do one, maybe two S&S coats. One, no more than two coats of desert sand (in this case santa fe tan) and as few coats of red as possible without the tan showing through. This will allow the fiesta red to orange out over time and the underlying desert sand finish to show through after a long life of wear (which is what I am going for). I just hope that the fiesta red doesn't have any compatibility problems with the duplicolor...any advice is appreciated. I will keep yall posted!
    ~Nick
     
  5. When painting wood, that has grain, with a lacquer it is more difficult to get a super flat finish with no visible grain. It is not like painting metal, as on autos. To cover the grain to where it does not show, is going to take several coats, either primer or color coats. Primer is cheaper, easier to sand and fills quite well. Lacquer is a very thin material, not like enamal or poly paints. It normally takes 5-10 coats of lacquer to equal the thicknes of 1 coat of enamel. If you use automotive acryllic lacquer, use primrs of the same manufaturer, that was you know they are compatible. It is important that you wetsand after each coat so you can level the finish and you can see the progress you are making trying to cover the grain. There is no need to put on anymore than is necessary to have a flat finish. This must include enough material to allow for the paint you will remove in the final buffing stage.
    Rocky
     
  6. Have you ever seen a tan car? :D
    Rocky
     
  7. vbasscustom

    vbasscustom

    Sep 8, 2008
    actually yes. it looked quite good.
     

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