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Ernie Ball slinkys onto mark hoppus bass

Discussion in 'Strings [BG]' started by levaz, Mar 23, 2013.


  1. levaz

    levaz

    Jun 24, 2012
    Hi guys,

    I have just fitted some ernie ball super slinkys onto a hoppus sig bass. Its the first time i have re-strung a guitar.

    I have two questions and they are rather noobish sorry:

    1. Do you start the turns on the tuning peg from the top and twist the strings down the peg?

    2. At first there didnt seem to be alot of clearance on the A string towards the neck (between the string and fret 1,2,3,4 i mean) but as i tightened the string some clearance did emerge. Is there a tolerance / figure in mm or inchs that i should have between the strings and frets towards the neck?

    Thanks and sorry for nooby questions
     
  2. gregmon79

    gregmon79 I did it for the muff... Supporting Member

    Dec 20, 2012
    Chicago IL
    I'm not too sure on the tolerance question but as far as stringing it goes, that sig bass is a fender right? If so you want to wind the tuner so the string winds in a downward spiral towards the base of the tuning peg. That way when it comes off the nut, it gets more tension. The correct amount of tension I suppose you'd say. Oh and if it has that thing in the headstock to feed the D and G string, talk about a noobie haha, you want the spiral to go downward but keep at the top of the tuning peg. Example below:

    ImageUploadedByTalkBass1364021208.400983.

    Not sure if I did the greatest job myself on this one :bag: but hopefully this helps.
     
  3. gregmon79

    gregmon79 I did it for the muff... Supporting Member

    Dec 20, 2012
    Chicago IL
    Actually, my A could be lower. But I messed up and put long scale flat wounds on my squire. So I suppose it's not the ideal example. Still hope this helped. Sorry!
     
  4. levaz

    levaz

    Jun 24, 2012
    Thanks for your advice greg, so i need to have the strings coming off the top of the nut for the d and g strings? I have attached some photos
     

    Attached Files:

  5. levaz

    levaz

    Jun 24, 2012
    more photos
     

    Attached Files:

  6. levaz

    levaz

    Jun 24, 2012
    photo
     

    Attached Files:

  7. levaz

    levaz

    Jun 24, 2012
    more peg photos
     

    Attached Files:

  8. gregmon79

    gregmon79 I did it for the muff... Supporting Member

    Dec 20, 2012
    Chicago IL
    Looks damn good to me. One thing, I usually cut some of the E string off before I wind it so theres not a spiral all the way down the peg. That's just me though. I read that somewhere it's better to have not so much of the string be wrapped around the peg so much. Different strokes different folks.
     
  9. FourBanger

    FourBanger

    Sep 2, 2012
    SE Como
    I was going to point that out as well. Also it looks like the circular string tree could be loosened a bit so it sits a bit higher.

    If you are not getting the string action you like after changing strings you may need to tweak the bridge saddle height and possibly truss rod a bit, this is normal whenever you put different strings on a bass.

    As you des ribed the action improving as you tightened it up, this is because the tension of the strings pulling forward on the neck bows it out a little, and a bass is designed to work this way.
     
  10. levaz

    levaz

    Jun 24, 2012
    thanks guys
     
  11. gregmon79

    gregmon79 I did it for the muff... Supporting Member

    Dec 20, 2012
    Chicago IL
    You're welcome. Hope your results were good and want you were trying to accomplish.
     

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