ErnieBall Musicman Sterling 4 string pickup and wiring

Hi all,
If I was to install a Seymour Duncan 3 coil Alnico Musicman pickup into a Musiman Sterling 4 string bass, is it possible to wire it like a Stingray?
Im after the sound of Alnico Stingray but in a Sterling bass.
Thanks
 
What do you want to rewire? The Stingray has no switch and the pickup is wired in parallel. Position 1 of the switch on the the Sterling is parallel.
 
You can install it, and I believe you can get that Stingray-esque sound with the switch. What else does the switch do?

Hi all,
If I was to install a Seymour Duncan 3 coil Alnico Musicman pickup into a Musiman Sterling 4 string bass, is it possible to wire it like a Stingray?
Im after the sound of Alnico Stingray but in a Sterling bass.
Thanks
 
The switch should be a parallel, single coil, series.

Try using the EQ and see if you can't coax out the Stingray sound. Go to the parallel setting, boost the treble and cut the mids on the bass. Maybe add some ultra low bass (20-50hz) from your amp. That should get you there.

If you still want to use the Seymour Duncan pickup it should be fairly easy to install into the current electronics and the switch should still give you the 3 switching options.
 
Their SMB-4A 3C pickup is designed to wire right in and work with the stock MM switch and MM preamp of a Sterling or other MM with 3-way switch and 3-coil pickup.

The easiest route with that pickup is to wire it up just like the stock pickup is wired and continue to use the switch, even if you don't ever select other settings. The parallel setting should be pretty close to a Stingray (certainly a 3-band). You will at least know that you have a pickup with AlNiCo magnets rather than ceramic

To truly wire it like a Stingray (no switch and parallel only) would actually take more effort and accomplish little.

Otto
 
The more radical approach would be to install a 2-coil AlNiCo MM pickup and a standard MM replacement preamp while removing (or bypassing) the switch entirely. This would leave you with a replacement version of the Stingray electronics from start to finish.

Otto
 
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I'm working on a similar thing right now. Information has been tricky to find. I have a standard sterling, and quite a while back I got an 80s stingray pickup. I was ready to get rid of the sterling because I just couldn't get the sound I like out of it, and I really loved the tone of and earlier stingray I had. So last night I decided to take a shot at putting the stingray pup in the sterling.

The sound so far is unquestionably "better" (that is, more to my liking) and I'm going to get to rehearse with it tonight. But I don't know if I'm getting a proper parallel humbucker sound from it, so there could be "even better" in here if I can nail down the wiring with more confidence.

Technical notes: (from memory -- I'll confirm later tonight)
The sterling has a 5 wire lead -- black, white, red, green and shield.
- white off the bridge coil, black to the dummy, and then purple from the dummy to the bridge coil
- red and green off the neck coil
just like this: https://www.talkbass.com/attachments/photo-jpg.152791/

Stingray had 2 (black, white) and the coils were bridged with a red and a green.
- red and green off the neck coil
- black and white off the bridge
just like this: http://myweb.ecomplanet.com/TOWN8019/MyStorage/Pre-Amp Page Pics/PUP 1992 Untaped (Oliver).JPG

So I put longer leads on the green and red, fed them all out to the preamp. I wired them to the preamp using the same color pattern as was used by the sterling pickup.

The problem I'm getting:

pos 1 (bridge-most), if I tap on the slugs, the neck coil is very loud, the bridge is not -- hard to tell if it's active at all
pos 2, tone is slightly different, but again, neck coil hot, bridge seems very quiet
pos 3, overall volume is VERY low, and bridge coil seems the hotter of the two

Here's a pic of the schematic that matches my sterling:
Photo by Rene Contreras

Which is ALL to say, putting a Stingray pickup into a Sterling, might or might not work perfectly just by matching colored wires.

Eventually I'll buckle down and map out the switching and schematic because I'd really like to insure I have the basic parallel humbucker sound (and I don't want to risk damaging the board by too much trial and error swapping of wires).

[removed complaint about mid-setting -- found better diagram that confirmed pos2 is bridge coil + dummy, which makes sense. see Nordstrand Musicman 3-coil pickup wiring, HELP! ]

I'll add what info I can as I go. Looking forward to hearing how you like the SD pup!
 
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Hi lethargytartare,
From your experience with trying to get the Stingray sound out of a Sterling would you say it can be done? Or its still a work in progress?
I'm guessing you could wire the Sterling just like a Stingray 5 string as the Stingray 5 sounds a lot like the Stingray 4 with the addition of the switch.
But that's just a guess!
Thanks
 
"From your experience with trying to get the Stingray sound out of a Sterling would you say it can be done?" So my feeling at this point is yes -- I feel I'm getting much more of the Stingray sound I like from my bass. I've been reading tons of discussions of the electronics and I'm wondering now if the changes in the coil outputs is part of the preamp design...but regardless, it's night and day with the Stingray pickup in here. I guess it could be the alinco v. ceramic, or it could be the impact of that dummy coil. I have a show in August, so now I'm debating whether I'll have enough time to experiment with hard-wiring the pup to be parallel (so, wiring the pickup back to its original state and just wiring in the black and white wires to the preamp) or other tinkering (e.g. swapping the red/green and black/white pairs). I do think I need to map out this switch -- I still can't quite figure out how it gets the combinations that it does.
 
I do think I need to map out this switch -- I still can't quite figure out how it gets the combinations that it does.

I've been working on that same basic task with my import Sterling (SB14). I'm still using all the stock components, and I don't really have big complaints about the tone, but I've noticed the series and single coil/dummy settings don't quite cancel the hum the way parallel does. Also that coil 2 is weakly engaged in the middle setting that is supposed to be single coil (coil 1 + dummy).

So I'm trying to verify first that all the pickup leads are connected correctly and then that they run correctly to and through the switch. It's hard to find details on this.

Otto
 
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Ok, so progress. The switch is a 4-pole, 3-way. Below is a snippet of the preamp circuit diagram with the switch positions marked. The gist appears to be as follows:

The violet wire is a ground wire.
The white pickup wire has a fixed connection to the preamp in addition to going to the switch.
Pole 1 does one thing -- ground the red wire in the (B)ridge pos
Pole 2 is all preamp -- 3 different wires to the preamp connected to a gray wire also going to the preamp.

So there rest of the action is on poles 3-4. Resulting options:

Switch in...
(B)ridge pos
1 - Red pup wire grounded
3 - Yellow preamp wire is grounded
4 - Green pup wire to White pup wire (and white has its cxn to the preamp)
Black pup wire floats
-- This is very close to parallel humbucker. But with the black wire floating, as expected, my bridge coil is cold.

(M)id pos
3 - Black pup wire to Yellow preamp wire
White has its preamp connection
Green pup wire floats (4)
Red pup wire floats
-- This is consistent with the Sterling stock mid setting which would be the rear and dummy coils in series. Neck coil is cold.

(N)eck pos
3 - Red pup wire to Yellow preamp wire
4 - Green pup wire grounded
White has its preamp connection
Black pup wire floats
-- Neck coil hot, bridge coil cold. If the Sterling option would have been coils in series, and white is going to the preamp, presumably that's going to the output jack. And if Green is grounded, then I'd expect red and black to be joined, but black floats.

But I think I've got two options that are going to give some decent settings if, as was my goal, you want more stingray-ey tones:

(1) hard-wire the black pup wire to ground
(B) now you get your full-on parallel humbucker
(M) bridge coil only. By grounding the black wire, the preamp is getting cut out of the mix (assuming the yellow wire was routing part of the signal through some components)
(N) Here you'd have Green and Black grounded, Red and White going out -- so this might be something like an out-of-phase humbucker...
(2) hard-wire Black to Yellow
(B) Yellow is normally grounded, so this just grounds Black, and, again, you get full parallel humbucker
(M) Black would have been tied to Yellow anyway, so this setting is unchanged
(N) Red was tied to Yellow, and now also Black; Green is grounded and White is going out -- so this is kind of a "coils in series" I find the output is notably lower than the full humbucker, but quite possibly usable.

Pretty minimally invasive. I put a switch in there to let me flip back and forth between the two for a while and see if one or the other ends up being more usable.

If anyone figures out better patch points on that preamp, I'd probably be unable to resist more experimenting...

Cheers!

upload_2016-7-21_1-8-32.png
 
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Ok, so progress. The switch is a 4-pole, 3-way. Below is a snippet of the preamp circuit diagram with the switch positions marked. The gist appears to be as follows:

The violet wire is a ground wire.
The white pickup wire has a fixed connection to the preamp in addition to going to the switch.
Pole 1 does one thing -- ground the red wire in the (B)ridge pos
Pole 2 is all preamp -- 3 different wires to the preamp connected to a gray wire also going to the preamp.

So there rest of the action is on poles 3-4. Resulting options:

Switch in...
(B)ridge pos
1 - Red pup wire grounded
3 - Yellow preamp wire is grounded
4 - Green pup wire to White pup wire (and white has its cxn to the preamp)
Black pup wire floats
-- This is very close to parallel humbucker. But with the black wire floating, as expected, my bridge coil is cold.

(M)id pos
3 - Black pup wire to Yellow preamp wire
White has its preamp connection
Green pup wire floats (4)
Red pup wire floats
-- This is consistent with the Sterling stock mid setting which would be the rear and dummy coils in series. Neck coil is cold.

(N)eck pos
3 - Red pup wire to Yellow preamp wire
4 - Green pup wire grounded
White has its preamp connection
Black pup wire floats
-- Neck coil hot, bridge coil cold. If the Sterling option would have been coils in series, and white is going to the preamp, presumably that's going to the output jack. And if Green is grounded, then I'd expect red and black to be joined, but black floats.

But I think I've got two options that are going to give some decent settings if, as was my goal, you want more stingray-ey tones:

(1) hard-wire the black pup wire to ground
(B) now you get your full-on parallel humbucker
(M) bridge coil only. By grounding the black wire, the preamp is getting cut out of the mix (assuming the yellow wire was routing part of the signal through some components)
(N) Here you'd have Green and Black grounded, Red and White going out -- so this might be something like an out-of-phase humbucker...
(2) hard-wire Black to Yellow
(B) Yellow is normally grounded, so this just grounds Black, and, again, you get full parallel humbucker
(M) Black would have been tied to Yellow anyway, so this setting is unchanged
(N) Red was tied to Yellow, and now also Black; Green is grounded and White is going out -- so this is kind of a "coils in series" I find the output is notably lower than the full humbucker, but quite possibly usable.

Pretty minimally invasive. I put a switch in there to let me flip back and forth between the two for a while and see if one or the other ends up being more usable.

If anyone figures out better patch points on that preamp, I'd probably be unable to resist more experimenting...

Cheers!

View attachment 911303

Thank you for the detailed explanation. What would one need to do to make the middle position the coil near the neck instead of the one near the bridge? Thanks!
 
Thank you for the detailed explanation. What would one need to do to make the middle position the coil near the neck instead of the one near the bridge? Thanks!
I'd guess switch the green and white pickup wires -- that is put the green wire to the white circuit board pad and the white wire to the green pad. But that is a swap, so you'd also be changing the forward switch position, and possibly the orientation of the humbucking position. Might take some experimenting. Have some alligator clips handy :)
 
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I'd guess switch the green and white pickup wires -- that is put the green wire to the white circuit board pad and the white wire to the green pad. But that is a swap, so you'd also be changing the forward switch position, and possibly the orientation of the humbucking position. Might take some experimenting. Have some alligator clips handy :)

Worth a shot. I hear some people prefer that coil...more P than J esque if that makes sense. Wonder if the phantom coil would still work.
 
Hello,
I just found out that there are some 4 H Sterling Musicman with alnico magnet pick up like this : https://www.thomannmusic.com/music_man_sterling_4_h_mn_vsb.htm

I thought these bass were only equipped with micro ceramic like on the Musicman website... (i don't like ceramic).
I'm looking for a Sterling neck with the Stingray sound too , it would be the solution (cause the Slo special Stingray is not manufactured anymore) !
Did the alnico of this Sterling was the same than the Stingray classic 4 h alnico ?
Don't need too replace the pickup with seymour Duncan Alnico ?
Thank's.
Nico
 
"From your experience with trying to get the Stingray sound out of a Sterling would you say it can be done?" So my feeling at this point is yes -- I feel I'm getting much more of the Stingray sound I like from my bass. I've been reading tons of discussions of the electronics and I'm wondering now if the changes in the coil outputs is part of the preamp design...but regardless, it's night and day with the Stingray pickup in here. I guess it could be the alinco v. ceramic, or it could be the impact of that dummy coil. I have a show in August, so now I'm debating whether I'll have enough time to experiment with hard-wiring the pup to be parallel (so, wiring the pickup back to its original state and just wiring in the black and white wires to the preamp) or other tinkering (e.g. swapping the red/green and black/white pairs). I do think I need to map out this switch -- I still can't quite figure out how it gets the combinations that it does.

Hello,
I just found out that there are some 4 H Sterling Musicman with alnico magnet pick up like this : https://www.thomannmusic.com/music_man_sterling_4_h_mn_vsb.htm

I thought these bass were only equipped with micro ceramic like on the Musicman website... (i don't like ceramic).
I'm looking for a Sterling neck with the Stingray sound too , it would be the solution (cause the Slo special Stingray is not manufactured anymore) !
Did the alnico of this Sterling was the same than the Stingray classic 4 h alnico ?
Don't need too replace the pickup with seymour Duncan Alnico ?
Thank's.
Nico
 
...its a mistake from Thomann.
Only ceramic pickup for the Musicman Sterling.
Is there anyone there who's changed the ceramic pick up to a Musicman Sterling 4 H made in usa for a alnico ( more vintage sounds) ?
I saw some pickup compagny like Nordstrand, Delano, Seymour Alnico, Aguilar….
I know it's possible for the Stingray's, but it is possible too for the Musicman Sterling 4 H ? ( 3 eq and switch 3 positions).
Thanks
 
Hi all,
If I was to install a Seymour Duncan 3 coil Alnico Musicman pickup into a Musiman Sterling 4 string bass, is it possible to wire it like a Stingray?
Im after the sound of Alnico Stingray but in a Sterling bass.
Thanks

..i'm exactly askes the same questions too...
Is there anyone there who's changed the ceramic pick up to a Musicman Sterling 4 H made in usa for a alnico ( more vintage sounds) ?
I saw some pickup compagny like Nordstrand, Delano, Seymour Alnico, Aguilar….
I know it's possible for the Stingray's, but it is possible too for the Musicman Sterling 4 H ? ( 3 eq and switch 3 positions).
Thanks